Tuesday, May 31, 2016

The History Of The Rolex DEEP SEA Model


The Early History Of The Rolex DEEPSEA

1959 Rolex DEEPSEA 33MM Reference 6532

After having studied Rolex design language history for so may years, I have noticed that a great key to Rolex's success was to experiment like crazy, and often times if something did not initially stick, Rolex would try it again until it stuck or worked, and that appears to me the case with the original Rolex DEEPSEA. The earliest known Rolex DEEPSEA was made in 1956, and the one in the two photos below, which appear courtesy of Fourtane Jewelers in Carmel, California, was made in 1959 and has a beautiful gilt honeycomb dial.







This next example of a Rolex DEEPSEA appears courtesy of Robert Maron, and it was named in the fourth quarter of 1956. One of the obvious questions, was if this watch was intended to be an homage to the original Rolex DEEPSEA Special Prototypes that set records in 1953 and 1960, and that would be my best guess. Robert Maron points out:

"Original stainless steel case is 33mm in diameter by 12mm thick and has a polished finish. The 6532 is popularly thought to share a case with the early Explorers. However, this is not the case (pun intended!). Instead, the 6532 case has straight case sides and thin lugs, which distinguishes it from an Explorer. It is also 1mm in diameter smaller than an Explorer. "




Monday, May 30, 2016

Rolex Coolness: Usher Raymond IV Stainless Steel Rolex Milgauss




...Rolex Coolness...


8 Time Grammy Award Recording Artist

Usher Raymond IV
An Amazing Career With Rolex Keeping His Time


Usher is one of the top recording artists today, and throughout his successful career, he has worn many different Rolex watches. In the first photo below we see him wearing a Stainless Steel Rolex Milguass.



In this next image we see Usher wearing Yellow-Gold Rolex Daytona.


The screen shot below shows Usher wearing his Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona, which is featured in the video below the photo.


Usher's performance of "Mercy, Mercy Me/What's Going On?" in the video below is absolutely amazing!!! I highly recommend watching it. Take it full-screen and turn the volume way up!!! Also notice Usher is wearing his yellow-gold Rolex Daytona.


The photo below is of the same model of Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona Usher is wearing, which is a Rolex Reference Number 116528.


In this next image we see Usher wearing an yellow gold Rolex Masterpiece Day-Date.


One of Usher's biggest hit singles is a song named "YEAH", and as we see on the single album artwork he is wearing an iced-out platinum Rolex Day-Date.



In this next image we see a clearer image of Usher wearing an iced-out Platinum Rolex Day-Date, which appears on the cover of his hit-single, "YEAH".


Sunday, May 29, 2016

Vintage Rolex Chronograph Yellow Gold Dual Scale


...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Vintage Rolex Chronograph
Yellow Gold Dual Scale
[Reference 6234]

This beautiful 36mm Rolex Chronograph from Robert Maron has a standard chronograph scale and a 1 mile distance telemeter scale. This allows you to simultaneously measure speed and distance. It is also anti-magnetic


Saturday, May 28, 2016

Rolex Macro Shot Of The Day Jocke's Pepsi Rolex GMT Master Reference 1675


...Rolex Macro Shot Of The Day...

Jocke's Pepsi Rolex GMT Master
Reference 1675

Friday, May 27, 2016

Vintage 1966 Rolex Submariner Sailing Advertisement...


...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Rolex Submariner with 3, 6, 9  'Explorer' Dial
Coming To Phillips Auction House in Hong Kong

Phillips Auction house in Geneva, Switzerland just had a very successful auction, and later this month, on May 31, 2016, they will have another auction in Hong Kong, which will offer this interesting Rolex Submariner. This is a rare Submariner that was made in 1963, which features what is known as the 'Explorer' dial.



Phillips Catalog Essay on this watch reads:

"Today, the so-called 'Explorer' dial is very fashionable and sought after. The name 'Explorer' stems from the original Rolex Explorer dial featuring the 3-6-9-numerals. Other than the Explorer, the only other Rolex watches to feature 3-6-9-dials are the Large Crown Submariner, reference 6200, 6538 and 5510 are known and the later reference 5512 and 5513 with crown guards. In production for only the first half of the 1960s, 5512 and 5513 are rare, however, it is virtually impossible to find these reference fitted with the Explorer dials.

The present watch was manufactured in the last half of 1963 and features the correct 'underline' and 'Swiss T 25' dial, which is the transitional period for when Rolex stopped using radium and transfer to tritium. The watch also features pointed crown guards, which is correct for the period. The dial itself is a gorgeous black lacquer and the case has retained with its original beveled edges and period bracelet. The present watch has great charisma and is an exceptional example."



The Rolex Submariner: 
A Salty Watch

I pulled up this early 1960s Rolex Submariner advertisement from my archive, which I originally published back in May 2008. It features the Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 as seen above.



On a personal note, despite the fact collectors go crazy over the Rolex Submariner models which feature the 'Explorer' 3, 6, 9 dial, I have never liked them! Why? I think having Arabic numerals on the dial, deeply conflict with the Arabic numerals on the bezel insert. In other words, I think the watch ends up looking way too busy, as there is no longer a focal-point. That is why, I believe Rolex never made any more of these models with the conflicting design language, as they realized the circular and rectangular indices found on a standard Submariner look much, much better, and give the watch a far greater balanced look...

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Howard Schultz: Founder & CEO of Starbucks


...Rolex Coolness...

Howard Schultz
Founder & CEO of Starbucks
Vintage Rolex Keeping The Time Of His Life

Howard Shultz is not only the founder and CEO of Starbucks, but a vintage Rolex collector. Howard is pictured below on the cover of the 2016 Forbes Magazine Special Issue named, "Meet The Richest People On The Planet."

In these next three photos we see him wearing his vintage Paul Newman Daytona with an Exotic dial, which is similar looking to the one that sold at the Phillips Auction House a few weeks ago for over $2 Million. Why is Howard Schultz so into collecting and wearing vintage Rolex sport watches? Because they are so timeless and beautiful, not to mention as a brand, Rolex is highly iconic, just like Starbucks Coffee.




In this next two photos we CEO Howard Shultz sporting a vintage Rolex Espresso GMT Master.




In these next photos we see Howard Shultz wearing a vintage Rolex Explorer.







The Starbucks Submariner

With all due respect, I think Howard Schultz would be better-off wearing a Starbucks Submariner or 50th Anniversary Submariner. I created this graphic illustration last year to illustrate how the LV Submariner reminded me of the Starbucks logo.



In all seriousness, Howard Schultz wrote one of the absolute best and most inspirational business autobiographies I have ever read, which I very highly recommend!!!


The book titled Pour Your Heart Into It tells the story not only of how Howard Schultz built the Starbucks empire, but goes into great detail on his business ethics philosophy. I remember he talked about how he insisted that all Starbucks employees be given health care and I also remember him talking about the power of Under-promising and Over-delivering. 

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Record Set For Rolex Daytona Phillips.com Sells for More than $2 Million!!!



Record Set For Rolex Daytona
Phillips.com

Sells for More than $2 Million!!!

Less than two weeks ago, on May 14, 2016, a new record was set for the selling price of a Rolex Daytona, when Phillips Auction House in Geneva sold this beauty for just over $2 Million!!!




Below is the Catalog Essay from Phillips that accompanied this watch at auction: 

The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Paul Newman “Oyster Sotto” is, without any doubt, a dream watch for collectors around the world except for special orders and unique pieces. Of all the different variants, styles, and configurations of Rolex’s iconic Daytona model, the Oyster Sotto is the pinnacle, positioned at the very top of the hierarchical tree in terms of prestige and desirability, but also rarity.

Formerly a highlight of one of the world’s most important private collections, this reference 6263 offered here is one of only two such known Tropical “Oyster Sotto”, having aged to a gorgeous and uniform shade of chocolate brown. With this unique and absolutely stunning dial, the present lot therefore can be considered one of, if not, the world’s most important Rolex Paul Newman Daytona ever offered for auction.


The charming Italian nickname of “Oyster Sotto” for the dial translates literally to “Oyster Underneath”, and was bestowed this name by collectors due to the placement of the “Oyster” designation beneath the word “Cosmograph” at 12 o’clock. These are the very first Paul Newman-style dials made for Oyster-cased Daytonas, whose screw-down pushers permitted greater water resistance compared with the pump pushers of earlier generation models. 


Recognizable by the art-deco style Arabic numerals and squared markers found in the subsidiary dials, only very few examples of this rare Oyster Sotto configuration of the Paul Newman-type dial are known to exist. All of those that have appeared on reference 6263 models bear low serial numbers in the 2 million range – the earliest examples of the reference. It’s fitted with the correct “millerighe”, meaning a thousand lines, Mark 1.5 screw-down pushers.


The dial’s lovely shade of dark brown provides superb contrast with the white outer rim which itself emphasizes the coveted red minute track along the outer circumference of the dial. The bold red “Daytona” logo above the chronograph’s hour-counter at 6 o’clock complements the red outer track perfectly, matching perfectly the “T SWISS T” designation at the dial’s very bottom edge. Manufactured in 1969, the case shows few signs of wear, illustrating how well it was taken care of over the course of its nearly 50 year life.


This watch with its extreme rarity, spectacular dial, and outstanding overall condition is worthy of “crowning” the next collection it enters as the ultimate trophy for enthusiasts of vintage Rolex Daytonas.

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

John Mayer & Ben Clymer Discuss The New Rolex Daytona As Early Owners on HODINKEE.com


...Rolex Super Coolness...

John Mayer & Ben Clymer
Discuss The New Rolex Daytona As Early Owners
on HODINKEE.com

John Mayer is a contributor to Hodinkee.com, and this last Saturday, he and Founding Editor of Hodinkee, Ben Clymer has a super-fascinating conversation on the New Stainless Steel Rolex Daytona. I highly recommend reading this great conversation between two died-in-the-wool Rolex Daytona fanatics...


John Mayer took the two wrist shot photos above and below of his new Rolex Daytona.

"You know when I took the watch out of the box, I think I may have spent the least time looking at it of any watch i've purchased in years. It has very little stare factor. I got it, put it on, and immediately just started owning it. And that, to me, proves how well thought through this design is. It immediately became a part of my life. This is a watch you can take on the road with you for three or four weeks at a time, and there is zero burn out." —John Mayer




"Mr. Mayer has established a reputation within the cultish watch community as a tastemaker, a discerning critic and a champion of horology." 
–The New York Times

Above photo of John Mayer appears courtesy of New York Times 


Sunday, May 22, 2016

Vintage Rolex Hotness Ads...Through Time


...Rolex Hotness...


The Rolex Woman
What Kind Of Woman Wears A Rolex?

The Evolution Of The Female Rolex Archetype 

They say you can tell a lot about a man by observing what kind of watch he wears, as well as the by the kind of shoes he wears. But what about a woman? They say with a woman you can tell a lot about her by her handbag, as well as her shoes. What about her watch? Does that tell you anything?


I have noticed from many decades of observing women's watches, that women who wear Rolex watches have certain worldview characteristics: They are typically Ladylike, Timeless, Chic, Charismatic and relatively traditional. More like a Ralph Lauren model than punk rocker... When I think of women wearing Rolex, I think more Elle MacPherson than Cyndi Lauper. 


I realize beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and thus, highly subjective. When I think of the ultimate woman wearing a Rolex today, Ingrid Hoffman comes to mind. Ingrid is ambitious, outgoing, stylish, chic, feminine, wholesome, and naturally beautiful...




There are many other beautiful women that come to mind when I think of women wearing Rolex, including Sofia Vergara, and Jennifer Aniston.


It is fascinating to note that starting in the 1960s, women began wearing men's Rolex tool watches, like the Rolex Submariner, Rolex GMT-Master, etc. Today I notice more women wearing men's Rolex models that are 40MM, than I do the smaller, more petite models. The supreme irony in this is the fact that up until the 1990s, Rolex was known for being "THE Big Watch Company", but today Rolex makes typically smaller watches!!?


Rolex ads have always fascinated me, so I thought it would be interesting to put together a story that chronicles Rolex ads that feature females in chronological order. Looking at these ads in chronological order is so interesting for so many different reason. First, from an anthropological perspective it is fascinating to see how social mores toward women have evolved over the last ninety years. Secondly to see how different generations of Rolex Leadership handled marketing material, and to see how Rolex branding evolved from typically including verbose language into taking a very simple approach.


You can't help but notice that in early Rolex ads, Rolex was ALWAYS trying to prove themselves, then in the 1990s, all of a sudden, they didn't seem like they had anything to prove any more.


So let's get in the Rolex Time Machine and travel back to the mid 1920s...








1926
Ladies Rolex Oyster Ad

Rolex introduced the famous Rolex Oyster in 1926, and began a world-wide marketing campaign to familiarize the world with the many benefits of owning a truly waterproof watch. 

The following Rolex ad from 1926 is the earliest know Rolex Oyster magazine ad I am aware of, and of course you can always learn much more about The Complete History Of The Rolex Oyster on Jake's Rolex World.




In this article we will learn that the first Rolex brand ambassador was a woman, not a man, and that Rolex Founder, Hans Wilsdorf brilliantly marketed to females.


1926 

Italian Rolex Mermaid Oyster Poster


Hans came up with the idea of associating the fantasy of mermaids with the waterproof Rolex Oyster as seen in the 1926 Italian Rolex advertisement seen below.







1927 
Rolex Oyster Introduction Brochure 


This next illustration depicts Mercedes Gleitze as she emerges from the English Channel. In the past I wrote a detailed article about Mercedes Glietze swimming the English Channel titled, "The Oyster and The Mermaid."




1927 
Rolex Oyster Introduction Advertorial


The Rolex photo below from the late 1920s features actress Evelyn Laye, as she demonstrates the waterproof quality of her Rolex Oyster, by submerging it in a fishbowl.





1929
THE ROLEX OYSTER
Watch & Clock Maker

This is a fascinating art-deco style Rolex ad from 1929. In particular it is interesting they refer to what we refer to today as a wristwatch as a wristlet. This ad was obviously published after the advent of the Rolex Oyster, but before the Oyster Perpetual. Notice how similar the art-deco case in the bottom left looks to an early Panerai.







1930




1930

Rolex Princesse




1940

French Rolex Ad






1942 
Swiss Rolex Poster

Beyer, Zürich, Switzerland



The poster below was printed in Switzerland between 1942 and 1945, and this particular poster was published by Beyer, which was the only Rolex Authorized Dealer in Zürich, Switzerland at the time. Beyer is still in business today, and they have been in business for over 250 years, making them one of the oldest jewelry storers in the world!



The poster text is in German since Zürich's  primary language is German. Rolex is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, where the primary language is French.






1944
World War II 

Women In Service Rolex Ad









1951






1953

Ladies Rolex Chameleon Ad







1955

Rolex Golden Dream Series








1956

ALL IN GOOD TIME . . . Smart Women







1957 

Vogue Magazine






1957 

Rolex Advertising & Sales Promotion Guide


This 1950s Rolex Advertising and Sales Promotion guide cover is fascinating. The juxtaposition between the sturdy Rolex Submariner (No Crown Guard) diving watch and the beautiful woman is fascinating to me for some reason.










1958








1959

 Commander Whitehead 
& Pauline Trigere Ad

The 1959 Rolex Magazine ad pictured below showcases two really successful and iconic celebrities. The first is Commander Whitehead, who built the Schweppes brand, and the second is fashion designer, Pauline Trigere.






1960

Shelia Scott




Sheila Scott broke over 100 aviation records in her lifetime of flying airplanes. She was the first person to fly over the North Pole in a small aircraft.




Sheila Scott is pictured in the Rolex ad two images above, and in the photo above, we see her sporting her Rolex GMT-Master. I think it is very likely that Sheila Scott was the archetype for the Pussy Galore character in the 1964 James Bond movie, Goldfinger. The image below is a screen grab taken from the end of Goldfinger and is shows Honor Blackman, who plays Pussy Galore, sporting a Coke GMT-Master.








1962

Pauline Trigère








1962

French Rolex Ad
Mercedes 300SL Gullwing

How cool is this totally mod French Rolex Ad from the early 1960s, which features a beautiful woman with her distinguished man sitting on the hood of his Mercedes 300SL Gullwing. Very La Dolce Vita & Mad Men.

"She Knows what a watch means for a man."









1962

Breakfast At Tiffany's
Ladies Rolex Catalog 


The following images come from a 1962 Rolex catalog, and if you read the poetry, it is just amazing!!! It is so DIFFERENT than the Rolex of today...so interesting...



The images in this set are from a ladies Rolex catalog from the early 1960s. My best guess is this theme was inspired by the Audrey Hepburn's character she played in the 1961 movie titled, "Breakfast At Tiffany's"










The next image below is in Spanish and originally appeared in a Mexican Rolex catalog in the early 1960s.










1965

Rolex Ladies Datejust
Rudi Gernreich Ad







1966

Rolex Ladies Magazine Ad








1966

Lady-Date Rolex Ad
Some People Want More Than Just A Pretty Face







1967










1968










1968

The late 1960s add below features Twiggy, who was a super-famous model during that era. Twiggy was know for her tomboy look that was slightly androgynous. All I can say is "Groovy, Baby! Yeah!!!!"









1969














1970

Rolex Lady-Datejust









1970









1970

Hong Kong Rolex President Ad In Chinese






1973

Mrs. Jackie Stewart




1970s Rolex Brochure

Strange as it may or may not sound, I think many Rolex watch designs and brochures are high-art and these images from the 1970 Rolex USA catalog are no exception. I really like this first vintage Rolex Hotness image. It is remarkable how timeless the photo, watch, clothing and hairstyle is, and I love those beautiful light pink nails.








1978

Pauline Trigère





1991

Chris Evert




1993

Lyn St. James










1997

Adrienne Vittadini






1999

Ekaterina Gordee









2002

Picabo Street







Sophie Mautner
Award Winning Pianist


























2005








2007











2008

Riyo Mori





















2009

Ana Ivanovic






2011

Caroline Wozniacki











2014

Sophia Loren






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