Rolex Novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024

Rolex Novelties for

Watches and Wonders 2024

Rolex just dropped this video that shows off many of the novelties recently unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024 in Geneva!!!

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor continues to impress by surprising us with a Coke bezel GMT model that harkens back and takes cues from the 1958 Rolex GMT-Master. This model looks so cool and fresh!!!

Below are Live Photos from Cameron Barr from Craft and Tailored.

ELEGANCE IN MOVEMENT: Perpetual 1908 with guilloché dial

Perpetual 1908

Elegance In Movement

Rolex just dropped this all new Perpetual 1908 with an amazing sky blue guilloché dial, and she is definitely a beauty. I remember when I visited Rolex in Geneva and watches their guilloché machine working, it blew my mind!!!!

Countdown to Watches and Wonders Geneva

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024

TUESDAY, APRIL 9, 2024 AT 8:30AM GENEVA TIME 

Cameron Barr from Craft and Tailored and I recently sat down to discuss Rolex's novelties we hope to see in a few days at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Switzerland. Cameron will be attending Watches and Wonders on behalf of RolexMagazine.com, and if all goes as planned we should have some really interesting insight and exclusive content to share. 

Cameron will be joining us live from the Rolex Pavilion at Watches and Wonders, to discuss the new watch models. So if you are interested, join us for our first live broadcast...Coming up after the official launch of Watches and Wonders...

Rolex Teaser Video for WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024
Rolex Teaser Video

RETURN OF THE SINGLE RED SUBMARINER

SUBMARINER 

RETURN OF THE SINGLE RED

70TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

People keep asking me what novelties Rolex will be introducing at Watches and Wonders in less than a week? The truth is I don't know, but I do know what I would like to see, so I will go out on a limb since 2024 represents the 70th Anniversary of the Rolex Submariner and suggest we might see the return of the Single Red Submariner!!! At least, that is my best guess :-0

Watches and Wonders 2024 Predictions: New Rolex GMT-Master Fanta?

WATCHES AND WONDERS 2024

 COULD ROLEX UNVEIL

A RED AND ORANGE BEZEL?

FEELING THIRSTY? 

WHY ROLEX COULD BRING US

A NEW COLOR COMBO FOR THE GMT

A red-and-orange-bezeled GMT-Master could be released at Watches and Wonders in April. 

I've previously written on the rumors of a new Rolex black-and-red ("Coke") GMT. They have been spreading like wildfire after a patent was made public last month indicating the brand had perfected the multicolor-bezel manufacturing process, mentioning the red-and-black color combination. 

But the brand could have a surprise for us, as the patent mentions one more color combination, red and orange, which has been overlooked by the watch community. 

The patent filed by Rolex reads:

"Thus, the process according to the invention is particularly suitable for obtaining a two-tone, notably black and red or red and orange, ceramic having a very attractive appearance."  

And I thought, How is red and orange a good color combination? But then Jake pointed me to the Mastercard logo.

When it comes to a GMT bi-color bezel, would the red be on top or at the bottom? The current Pepsi has the red at the bottom, so it was logic to think that's where it stayed. 

But going through every iteration of GMT bezels, I realized the lighter color was always at the bottom, possibly because the bottom indicates the day-time hours and the top, the night time. In this case the lighter color is orange. So the orange should be at the bottom of the bezel.

A Rolex New Era

A Fanta bezel is not unlikely as I believe Rolex has entered a new era in design, namely, the mix of luxury with playfulness, lightness and fantasy. 

In 2020, in the middle of a pandemic, Rolex wanted to show us a joyful side when it unveiled a line of colorful Oyster Perpetual watches. In 2021, the brand used the Datejust to be playful and added a palm motif to the dial. 

Then, in 2022, a black-green GMT-Master was released with a date and crown on the left, another interesting break from tradition. And in last year's unveil, it presented a celebration Oyster Perpetual dial and an emoji-filled complication Day-Date covered with colorful puzzle pieces. And the watch was a success.

“The Day-Date is an icon. Through it, we wanted to send a positive message, a message of joy, which makes everyday life a little better," a Rolex spokesperson said. 

When the world is in crisis, it is interesting to see people come to the reassuring side of an established brand like Rolex, which makes objects that can last several lifetimes, but which also brings freshness and a side that could be carefree and fanciful. The Fanta could be the color combo we didn't know we needed on a GMT watch. 

A Rolex GMT-Master II with a Ceramic Coke Bezel

WHAT A NEW GMT-MASTER II

 WITH A COKE BEZEL

WOULD LOOK LIKE

JAKE'S ROLEX WORLD EXCLUSIVE:

A COMPUTER-GENERATED ANIMATION

OF A NEW GMT-MASTER II 

WITH A COKE BEZEL

A patent filed in mid-2023 by Rolex but only made public last month reveals the brand is perfecting the multicolor-bezel manufacturing process, mentioning four times the red-and-black color combination. 

What the patent says: Rolex prefers to use zirconia-based ceramic for its bezels due to its high strength and durability. While zirconia-based ceramics are naturally white, the pigmentation process and certain color combinations are difficult to produce. Rolex has had to use an alumina-based ceramic for the blue-and-red bezels, which lack the same durability. 

Until now. Rolex says it can now create a Coke bezel with a durable zirconia-based ceramic bezel.

Rolex revealed it has found a way to reliably produce red-and-black bezels as well as red-and-orange bezels (Fanta?) on a zirconia-based ceramic. The patent says the color combinations have “a very attractive appearance.” 

Rolex could wait until the GMT-Master's 70th anniversary — in 2025, according to Rolex.com — to release the Coke or Fanta, or unveil them during the next edition of Watches and Wonders, at 8:30am CET on April 9. For your viewing pleasure, I shared a computer-generated animation of a new Rolex with a Coke bezel. Please click below and enjoy!

ANIMATION OF A ROLEX WITH A CERAMIC COKE BEZEL

JAKE'S TAKE: I find Rolex's statement in the patent saying they figured out how to create color combinations that feature a "very attractive appearance" to be very interesting. I have always thought ceramic bezel inserts were inferior to anodized aluminum bezels as ceramic bezels often look washed out—in certain lighting conditions. 

The photo below shows an anodized vintage Rolex Pepsi bezel up close and notice it almost has a sparkle pattern to it. This high/low characteristic results in a metallic look that reflects a lot of light while remaining rich in color.

The Black ceramic bezel insert on the Submariner often, in many lights looks washed out, as if it is a dark grey color as apposed to a rich jet black.

Same thing with the LV Submariner (Hulk) that had the green dial. The green sunburst dial on that model was off-the-hook popping, as it featured aluminum embedded in the dial, which made it pop in all lighting conditions, but the green bezel looked washed-out, dull and plasticy. 

It sounds like Rolex figured out how to make create a ceramic using zirconia sapphire crystal that features a more robust contrast and color saturation profile, which would be the best of both worlds. Just to be crystal clear, Zirconia is commonly referred to as 'Cubic Zurconia'' which is essentially what high quality sturdy synthetic diamonds are commonly make from.  My understanding is that Rolex crystals are made from synthetic sapphire crystal, which is basically Zirconia.

Everybody has been asking me what I think we will see this year at Watches and Wonders, and I have no idea. That being said, I REALLY hope to see a Coke or Pepsi Bezel insert that has the glowing lume bezel numbers, like they had on the original GMT-Masters that first became available in Q4 of 1956.

GMT Bakelite Bezel

The original GMT Master models—beginning in 1955-1956—featured a so-called "bakelite" bezel insert that would glow in the dark, and some of them still do, as seen in the lume-shots below. This first image from Stefano Mazzariol shows the bezel insert still glowing after all these years.

This next image shows both the dial and bezel insert and hands still glowing.

The first generation Rolex GMT had what has been dubbed a "Bakelite Bezel" but I don't think it is made from bakelite. It appears to be some kind of clear epoxy. 

The amazing thing about the design of these original GMT bezels is that the numbers on the bezel glowed in the dark and as seen in these amazing macro photos, the numbers seem to be frozen in an icy bezel–kind of like insect specimens that got trapped in tree sap millions of years ago, and can still be seen through the sap.

The photo below is a wrist shot I took back in 1999 wearing my Coke GMT-Master, and notice how popping the anodized aluminum bezel looks in ALL lighting conditions. [When I look at the photo of my old Coke GMT, it looks strange with the tiny winding crown, but that used to be a key characteristic that differentiated the GMT-Master from the Submariner!]

A Letter from a Reader...

A Letter from a Reader

Explorer II Reference 226570

A reader named Mehdi from London, England recently sent in the following email:

Dear Jake,

I hope this message finds you well. My name is Mehdi, and I've been an avid reader of Rolex Magazine for several years now. Your publication has been a daily source of enjoyment and insight for me, and I deeply appreciate the exceptional collection of stories and vintage photographs you curate. The passion and dedication behind each issue truly resonate with enthusiasts like myself, making it a treasured resource in the Rolex community.

I'm reaching out to share an exciting personal milestone that I believe could contribute to the magazine's legacy. I recently acquired my first Rolex timepiece—the Explorer II Reference 226570. It's a model that symbolizes adventure and endurance, qualities that I've always admired. In my journey to learn more about my watch, I noticed that there isn't an archive entry for this specific reference on your platform. Given its significance and the growing interest in this model, I thought it would be a valuable addition to your esteemed collection of archives.

To this end, I've taken a unique photograph of my Explorer II, capturing the stunning luminescence of the dial and hands under UV light. This image, I believe, not only highlights the watch's aesthetic appeal but also its functional beauty, encapsulating the essence of what makes the Explorer II a remarkable piece of craftsmanship.

I would be honored if you considered creating a new archive entry for the reference 226570 and including this story and photograph as part of it. I am confident that it will resonate with your readers, offering them fresh perspectives and insights into this beloved model.

Please let me know if this proposal interests you, and if so, how we might proceed. I am more than willing to provide further information or assistance as needed. Your work has been a source of inspiration to me, and contributing to it in even a small way would be a privilege.

Thank you for considering my suggestion, and regardless of the outcome, I look forward to continuing to enjoy the fascinating content Rolex Magazine provides.

Warm regards,

Mehdi

I responded to Mehdi's email. First, I pointed out that to the best of my knowledge I have published many posts on the Rolex Reference 226570, but I never bothered to properly label posts with that reference as I just typically label them under "Orange Hand Explorer". For the record, I perceive all modern Orange Hand Explorer models to be similar enough that I don't differentiate the two references, although I prefer the design characteristics of the newest reference.

Also, I took up Mehdi on his offer and said, "Why don't you write an article about your first Rolex and your journey?" Mehdi accepted my offer and wrote the following brilliant article:

 The Earned Timepiece

A Journey Towards the Rolex Explorer II

In the bustling heart of London, at the renowned Wolseley, my odyssey towards acquiring a Rolex began. It was the early summer of 2019. As I awaited a meeting with a wealthy investor, the weight of my nearly maxed-out credit card weighed heavily on my mind. Yet, amidst the clatter of fine dining and the murmur of negotiations, my gaze was drawn to an exquisite timepiece on the investor's wrist: a Rolex Explorer II with a striking white dial. The model's reference eluded me then, but its elegance and the statement it made were unforgettable.

The meeting concluded, and though I managed to cover the bill by a hair's breadth, the hoped-for investment never materialized. The experience, however, planted a seed of aspiration within me. I made a promise to myself: if I were ever to own a Rolex, it would be that very model that stood as a testament to my resilience at the edge of financial ruin.

As the years unfolded, my fascination with watches and horology deepened, blossoming into a passionate pursuit by mid-2021. The timing, however, was less than ideal. The grey watch market was booming, and for true enthusiasts like myself, opportunities to acquire such coveted timepieces directly from Authorized Dealers seemed nearly impossible. Despite this, I remained undeterred, even enlisting my partner in the quest for the Explorer II, hoping to double our chances.

The journey was long and often disheartening. For years, I awaited "The call" from an AD, a confirmation that my dream watch was finally within my grasp. It never came... Yet, as 2023 neared its end—and the watch market showed signs of normalizing,—I sensed an opportunity. It was then I met Nathan, a beacon of sincerity in a sea of indifference. Nathan offered a simple yet profound promise: if he had the watch, it would be mine. Rejuvenated by this fresh perspective, I persisted, calling weekly in hopes of securing my dream timepiece.

My perseverance paid off. A few months later, I received "The call". With an unprecedented level of excitement, I prepared to claim my Rolex Explorer II Reference 226570. The journey to the AD was reflective, a moment to ponder the highs and lows that define our pursuits in life. It became clear that owning a Rolex was not merely a transaction; it was a milestone earned through patience, determination, and growth.

As I clasped the Explorer II around my wrist, the realization of my dream filled me with pride. This was not just a watch; it was a symbol of the journey, a reminder of the obstacles overcome and the aspirations realized. Inspired by the stories I had read on Rolex magazine, I felt compelled to share my own. My hope is to inspire others who dream of their first Rolex, to remind them that the value of such a timepiece lies not only in its craftsmanship but in the journey it represents. The hunt, indeed, is always sweeter than the kill.

Among the myriad features that drew me to the Rolex Explorer II, the white dial stands out as a personal favorite. Its pristine surface not only exudes a stark elegance but also enhances legibility, making the act of reading time a sheer pleasure. The white dial serves as the perfect backdrop for the watch's distinctive orange GMT hand, which provides a striking contrast and adds a layer of functionality that is both practical and visually appealing. This unique combination of design elements underscores the watch's versatility and its ability to transition seamlessly from an outdoor adventure to a formal gathering.

Furthermore, aficionados often regard the Explorer II range as the last bastion of Rolex's 'true' essence. Unlike other models that have seen iterations in precious metals, the Explorer II has steadfastly retained its 'tool watch' DNA, a testament to Rolex's commitment to creating timepieces that are as robust and functional as they are beautiful. 

This fidelity to the brand's original ethos resonates with enthusiasts who value the practical origins of wristwatches. Oisín O'Malley, a respected voice in the horology community, encapsulates this sentiment perfectly in his insightful YouTube video, highlighting the Explorer II's unique position within the Rolex catalogue as a symbol of authenticity and enduring craftsmanship.