Very Early Rolex Submariner coming to Auction

Serpico Y Laino

A Very Early
Submariner Surfaces

This remarkable story presents one of the earliest known Rolex Submariner serial numbers, specifically #949,197. The case for this beauty was made in the second quarter of 1953, and appears to have been retailed in South America by Serpico Y Laino, which not only has their logo on the dial, but also features the ultra-rare split SUBMARINER | PERPETUAL dial logo designation, and it's up for auction at Christie's Auction house.

The first Submariner dial was distinctive, a quiet testament to Rolex’s pioneering spirit. Initially christened the “SUBMARINER PERPETUAL,” it bore “SUBMARINER” on the upper left beneath “ROLEX,” with “PERPETUAL” poised on the right, almost in a wing-like pattern, which ended up being a fleeting arrangement reserved for the earliest models. 

After I first published this story you are reading, I went digging through my archives looking for a Submariner that was even older than the Serpico Y Laino and came up with this Submariner Reference 6204, also from Q2 of 1953 that features an earlier serial number of 949.143, which is 54 digits earlier, and incorporates an unusually cool and interesting honeycomb dial. This watch appears courtesy top vintage Rolex dealer and expert, Eric Ku.

One of the earliest articles I wrote here on RolexMagazine.com on Early Rolex Submariner models was 15 years ago, back in 2011, and it was named "Early Rolex Submariner Model History: Separating The Fact From The Fiction." 

Just for frame of reference, the photo below shows the next Rolex Submariner Reference 6204 that came after the Reference 6204 pictured above, and as we see, it says "OYSTER PERPETUAL" under the Coronet/Crown Logo and "ROLEX" dial designation, and then we see the "SUBMARINER" dial designation centered on the lower part of the dial, directly above the 6 O'clock marker. This early model still lacked the now iconic Mercedes Logo hour hand, and featured the mini lollipop second sweep hand.

Since we are on the subject of timeless Rolex Submariner evolution design language, let's take a look at the current 41MM Rolex Submariner Reference 124060, which is the great, great grandson of the original Reference 6204, and they were born 73 years apart, yet they looks highly related. The current model features a depth rating below the "SUBMARINER" dial designation and it features the "Mercedes" logo hour hand.

For further frame-of-reference I put together the image below which shows the first Rolex Submariner 37MM Reference 6204 from 1953 next to the current 2026 Submariner which carries a Reference of 124060 and has grown 4MM to 41MM over the past three quarters of a century.

There are a number of additional details on the current Rolex Submariner, like the "ROLEX, ROLEX, ROLEX, ROLEX" etching running around the rehaut, not to mention the 5 minute marker indices are not applied on white told surrounds, as apposed to printed using a galvanic gilt process on the original. The original Submariner bezel featured an aluminum bezel insert, which was prone to scratching, whereas the current Rolex Submariner features a ceramic bezel insert which is much sturdier. Also, the original Submariner came on a riveted bracelet, and the current model is on a solid bracelet with solid end links, coupled with a flip-lock.

Let's get back to examining the Serpico Y Laino Submariner featured at the beginning of this story. The photo below shows the inside engraving on the caseback and we see not only the Reference 6204 number, but also the "2.53" manufacturing date stamp. The first thing I thought of when I saw this watch was the fact that when it was sold in Caracas, Venezuela, is how at the time, André-Jean Heiniger was the head of sales in South America. Serpico Y Laino was a retailer in Caracas with a fascinating history.

The Lot Essay from Christie's Auction House reads:

    "Amongst the rarest and most historically important early Rolex sports watches, this Submariner reference 6204 represents the very beginning of the Submariner lineage, when Rolex was experimenting with their diving watches. Produced in 1953 and retailed by the famed Venezuelan jeweler Serpico y Laino, the present watch features the coveted and exceptionally rare “Split Logo” text, in which the 'Submariner' and 'Perpetual' text is divided on each side of the center pinion.

    The watch further distinguishes itself with its gilt dial, “pencil” and "lollipop" hands, both being hallmarks of the earliest Submariners. Unlike later printed matte dials, gilt dials were produced through a galvanic process that left the text and minute track shimmering warmly, creating remarkable depth and richness. The elegant pencil hands, used before Rolex adopted the Mercedes handset, underscore the experimental and highly collectible nature of these first generation diving watches.

    Furthermore, the dial is signed Serpico y Laino at the lower half and is furthered with 'S&L ACERO' to the caseback. The present reference 6204 stands among the most desirable, rare, and historically significant early Rolex Submariners to survive today."

Lord Mountbatten & Dimitry Rebikoff

As mentioned earlier, this exceptionally rare Submariner boasts the second earliest known serial number. The earliest one belongs to the Submariner owned by Lord Admiral Mountbatten, who is pictured below (in the middle) in 1952 with Pierre Vanlaer (on the left) and Dimitri Rebikoff (on the right), the man who assisted Rolex in designing the Rolex Submariner. 

Mountbatten and Rebikoff were also close to Henri Broussard, the head of the Club Alpin Sous Marin diving club in Cannes, France. Broussard founded the club in 1946, and it was there that many early Rolex Submariner tests took place. Admiral Mountbatten, at the time, was the Commander-in-Chief of the Allied Forces in the Mediterranean and was also an accomplished scuba diver.

Lord Mountbatten was featured in the 1957 Rolex Magazine ad campaign titled "Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches."

Lord Mountbatten is pictured below in the Oval Office in Washington, D.C., with President Kennedy and the Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff of the American military, Lyman Lemnitzer.

In the subsequent image, we observe Lord Mountbatten accompanied by his nephew, Prince Charles, who has since ascended to the throne as King Charles.

Lord Mountbatten is pictured below with his family on vacation in Scotland, and he is rocking his Submariner.

Dimitri Rebikoff is featured on the cover of one of my upcoming books on the history of the Rolex Submariner and in the photo below we see him rocking his prototype Submariner which he co-developed with Rolex back in the early 1950s.

Below is a letter written by Rolex Marketing Director René-Paul Jeanneret to Admiral Mountbatten, which highlights Dimitri Rebikoff’s pivotal role in the development of the Rolex Submariner. As evident from the letter, Rolex provided Lord Mountbatten with an early Submariner for testing purposes. This explains why it possesses the earliest known serial number of 949,120, which is 77 digits earlier than the one being offered at auction at the beginning of this article.

Regrettably, the current whereabouts of Lord Mountbatten’s Submariner remain unknown to this day. Consequently, the Serpico Y Laino Submariner model featured at the beginning of this story, with a serial number of 949,197, is recognized as one of the earliest known Submariner models, as there are still known models that featured serial numbers in the range of 949,14X.

Below we see a very rare original copy of the Dimitry Rebikoff's Rolex Submariner Trial Report Renè-Paul Jeanneret included with his letter to Lord Mountbatten:

The copy of the Submariner Trial Report was published in the Club Alpin Sous-Marin Number 8 in 1956, and is from the personal collection of Frédéric Dumas, who was the dive leader aboard the RV Calypso and co-authored the book with Jacques-Yves Cousteau, The Silent World in 1953.

The Things That Dreams Are Made Of

In Jules Verne’s epic masterpiece, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, published in 1870, he prophetically unveiled humanity’s profound yearning to conquer the ocean’s mysterious abyss. The Rolex Submariner, born of that same indomitable spirit of exploration, transformed Verne’s visionary science fiction into enduring reality close to a century later—a timeless sentinel of the depths, where human ingenuity defies the deep sea, while touching the eternal unknown. Daring adventurers like Dimitri Rebikoff and Jacques-Yves Cousteau (pictured below wearing his Rolex Submariner tool watch) embodied that same spirit, turning Verne’s vision into reality.

Captain Nemo tells the three men when they board his Nautilus Submarine:

    "You will not regret the time spent on board my vessel. You are going to travel through a wonderland. Astonishment and stupefaction will be your normal state of mind... I am going to embark on a new underwater tour of the world... and you will be my study companion.”

— Jules Verne (1870)

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea 

1953 Cloisonné Custom Crest Dial

1953 Cloisonné

With Watches and Wonders 2026 in the rear view mirror, we saw some new Rolex models with very interesting enamel dials including the new Rolex Roleseum Daytona, which made me think about this 1953 Rolex watch. Speaking of Watches and Wonders 2026 novelties, in my story on the "100 YEARS" Oyster Perpetual model, I showed a classic 1956 and a 1957 with classic elegant dauphin hands, which also remind me of the design language from this fascinating OP.

In the past I have covered some of very interesting Rolex watches from Christie's auction house in Geneva, Switzerland. This watch in particular caught my eye. It was made in 1953, and is in a smaller 33.5 MM diameter case which features a Rolex Reference number of 6100. It also features a a Heraldic Armorial Cloisonné Enamel dial by Marguerite Koch. Its lot number 112 hammered at CHF 32K.

Sultan of Oman Rolex Day-Date Models

Sultan of Oman Rolex Day-Date Models

Record Setting Price Results at Christies Auction

Christies auctioned off some amazing Rolex watches on May 12, 2014, in Geneva, Switzerland that were made for the Sultan of Oman, and this auction included a number of Rolex Day-Date "Presidential" models that shattered previous records. Let's begin by examining this platinum Rolex Day-Date made which was made in 1974, and features a blue dial with a red Omani crest, coupled with diamond dial markers and with matching diamonds running around the bezel. This watch was estimated to sell for between $51,000 and $79,000, and it ended up selling for more than four times the estimate at $352,119!!! 

The next watch pictured below which features baguette cut baton markers cut from rubies on a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date [Made in 1984 Reference 18038, Caliber 3055], as well as the Omani crest on the dial. This watch was estimated to sell from between $42,000 to $82,000 and it ended up selling for $182,287!!!

On a side note, watches that were made by Rolex that feature Arab logos on the dial are typically know as "Arabic Rolex Watches."

Next up we see another yellow gold Rolex Day-Date made for the Sultan Of Oman, and this one was made in 1979, and it sold also had an estimate selling price of between $42,000 and $68,000, but sold for more than double at $168,700.

Norman Rockwell's What Makes It Tick (The Watchmaker) Coming To Auction @ Christie's

Norman Rockwell's

What Makes It Tick (The Watchmaker)

Auctioned @ Christie's for $7,287,500

I was just looking thought the RolexMagazine.com archives and I rediscovered this story about how Hodinkee published a superb story about how Norman Rockwell's AMAZING painting, titled, "What makes it Tick? (The Watchmaker)", was coming to auction as part of Christie's November 2017 American Art Auction. It sold for over $7 Million included the buyers premium.

Norman Rockwell's "What Makes It Tick (The Watchmaker)" Painted in 1948

Hodinkee's Nicholas Manousos, wrote:

    "In 1948 the Swiss Federation of Watchmakers, now known as the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), began work on an advertising campaign to raise the profile of Swiss watchmakers globally. The campaign needed an image that would make an immediate impact, communicating relatable aspects of watchmaking to a worldwide audience. They chose American illustrator Norman Rockwell for the job, and the result was an incredible painting of a boy, mesmerized by a watchmaker at the bench."

I definitely recommend heading over to Hodinkee to check out the rest of this great story! I am a huge fan of Norman Rockwell. He was just amazing!!! This painting was originally estimated to sell for between $4-6 Million...

First Rolex Cloisonné Dial Watch from 1949

First Rolex Cloisonné Dial Watch from 1949

Set All-Time Record at Christies Auction

Unique Reference 5029/5028

Back in June of 2014, Christies Auction house sold a unique 18KT gold Automatic Rolex watch, which featured a sweep center seconds hand, along with star numerals on a Cloisonné dial. This watch is believed to be the very first Rolex ever sold with a Cloisonné dial, and it sold for a record setting $1,242.040!!! 

The Cloisonné dial depicts a whale and a frigate in full sail cruising through stormy seas. The watch is also unusual in that it has an applied Rolex cornet in the 6 O'Clock position.

Christie's Lot Notes

The present Rolex cloisonne enamel wristwatch can arguably be considered one of the most important Rolex watches ever manufactured. The watch was last seen at these sale rooms in 2005 and since then locked away from the public. The case, only slightly tarnished then has now become completely oxidized after its 8 years in a safety deposit box. Since the watch made its last appearance at public auction in 1998 there has been a significant development in scholarship.

Today we believe this present wristwatch is not only the earliest known Rolex cloisonne enamel watch, manufactured in 1949, but also the only known dial to be fitted with the sought after star-set numerals. Every aspect of this watch is exceptionally rare. The size of the case is a massive 36mm. The gold dial is fitted with a full cloisonne enamel scene which covers the entire dial, not just filling two-thirds like many Rolex and other cloisonne wristwatches have. The Rolex crown fitted at the 6 o'clock position is the exact crown made by Rolex in 1949. The Rolex signature is hard enamel underneath the enamel glazing. The dial itself is a Stern Freres dial, although not signed as later Stern dials came to be. The counter enamel on the reverse of the gold dial is completely free of any restoration and shows clearly that it is applied over the 624 Stern order number. The way in which the numerals are applied to the dial are placed in the way in which only Stern were known for at the time. The hand-cut star numerals are that of Stern Freres model number 453, the applied faceted baton numerals at the quarters, Stern model number 276 and Rolex crown, Stern model number 49.

The spectacular quality of this wristwatch is difficult to express in words. The cloisonne enamel dial is by Marguerite Koch a famous artist from Geneva who at the time was also designing and creating dials for Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The reverse of the dial is almost identical to other known Patek Philippe dials numbered by Koch in a very similar way. The technique used to create the dial is very consistent with all other Koch's known dials. The colors and the exceptional miniature details that can be seen when examined under a microscope are mesmerizing. From the tiny specs of red and blue to the subtle shades of pinks and scarlet the colors blend harmoniously together creating a picture both mind blowing and stunningly beautiful. One can conclude that Rolex commissioned Marguerite Koch to design and create the dial and Stern then applied the Rolex signature and aspects such as the hand cut star numerals and Rolex crown at 6 o'clock.

Consigned by a prominent private collector the present watch is in outstanding condition and a true "Trophy Market" watch. There is no sign of any restoration to either side of the dial. The case has never been polished and supports beautifully the extraordinary and important cloisonne enamel creation. Cloisonne enamel dials are rare. Rolex cloisonne enamel dials are even rarer and to have an example covering the entire surface of the dial made by Marguerite Koch fitted with original star-set numerals and fitted into a 36mm case provides an exceptional opportunity to acquire a milestone in the history of watchmaking which will be treasured for eternity.

We are indebted to Eric Tortella for his assistance with the research of this incredible wristwatch.

1955 Rolex Milgauss: Christies Sets Another Auction World Record

1955 Rolex Milgauss

Christies Sets Another Auction World Record

I usually don't get that excited about the Geneva Spring Auctions, but this Spring seemed to have brought with it a sea-change in the world of collectable vintage Rolex watches. In other words, the premium collectors paid this spring shot through the roof, like I have never witnessed. Especially for very high-quality vintage Rolex watches like the 1955 Rolex Milgauus Reference 6543 pictured below, which set an all-time record when it sold a few days ago, on May 15, 2017 for $272,500 in Geneva!!!!

So what exactly is going on with these crazy, over-the-top auction prices? I think it has a great deal to do with the fact the collectable world has been seriously catching onto the intense beauty and timeless nature of vintage Rolex watches. I believe the auction houses are also contributing to this intensity by holding special Rolex only auctions, which shines a strong light on the majesty of vintage Rolex. It's interesting to note that for many decades Rolex has been almost a watch company that had very little to do with the broader marketplace in the sense that Rolex is almost like it's own country, with its own unique form of currency—literally and figuratively. 

This is a seriously beautiful and timeless Rolex watch, and it is is superb condition, as seen in the photos above and below. You can learn more about this model by reading my story preview named, "The Complete History Of The Rolex Milgauss."

Christies Lot Essay

ROLEX MILGAUSS

One of the most fascinating models made by Rolex starting from the 1950s is the Milgauss, a watch made to withstand magnetic felds of up to 1000 Gauss.

Rolex’s ethos was to devote some of its production to the manufacture of watches for scientifc professionals working out in the feld. The most highly specialized watch devised for this purpose is the Milgauss, it works on the principle of the Faraday cage – a soft iron band bracing the movement on reference 6543 and a soft iron container enveloping the entire movement in the near contemporary reference 6541.

Lot 200 is an example of the very rare frst Milgauss reference 6543 – in production for three years from 1955 to 1957. Lot 201, shows the progression of the Milgauss design with reference 1019, the fnal vintage model originally launched in 1963.

The Milgauss was only ever sold in very small numbers, fnally being discontinued in 1988. Rolex reintroduced the model in 2007 to critical acclaim, the new model quickly became highly collectible. A rarer “green glass” version is ofered here as Lot 202.

In the 1950s, Rolex began to actively and intensively pursue the market for professional watches. Possibly the most specialized of the timepieces devised over that time is the Milgauss, dedicated to the extremely rarifed market of professionals working with high magnetic felds. Reference 6243 – in production for three years from ’55 to ’57 - is the frst Milgauss model released. It will be joined the same year by the longer-lived reference 6541.

Reference 6543 achieves very high anti-magnetic properties thanks to a very thick case back and a soft iron band bracing the movement. This is a diferent approach than the nearly contemporary reference 6543, which instead achieves the faraday cage efect (magnetic isolation) through an inner soft iron container enveloping the entire movement. The case features the typical Rolex revolving bezel. Early examples mounted a black insert with “Submariner-style” graphics, which will soon be modifed with the dagger markers typical of the Milgauss models.

A curious detail of this reference is the lugs width: it is slightly narrower than the canon 20 mm., thus preventing the attachment of a bracelet.

The 1953 Rolex DEEP-SEA Special Exclusive Detailed Photo from Christie's

...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

1953 Rolex DEEP-SEA Special

Exclusive Photo From

Christie's Auction House

When Rolex launched the all-new Single RED SEA-DWELLER last week at BaselWorld in Switzerland, it freaked me out, in a very positive way!!! It caused me to go crazy writing the story about it, which can be seen below this story. In doing so, it ignited a fire within, and I can't seem to stop working on writing it. So I thought that I would start publishing some new images that I plan to add to the story, before I add them. The exclusive image below of the 1953 Rolex DEEP-SEA Special prototype has never been published before in high-resolution:

This magnificent image comes courtesy of Christie's Auction House, vis-à-vis my fellow Rolex and Panerai research associate, Jose from Perezcope.com. Christie's Auction House successfully auctioned this ultra-rare Rolex in 2005 for around a quarter of a million dollars.


Just to be crystal-clear, this is a photo of the very first Rolex DEEP-SEA Special, that actually set the all-time depth record in 1953 attached to the outside of the Bathyscaphe Trieste Submersible. It has never been seen with this kind of detail and resolution. And for the record, I am still working very hard on the Single RED SEA-DWELLER story, and I have much more amazing undocumented Rolex history coming up soon!!!

Update: A reader of Jakes Rolex World wrote in and said:

Hi Jake

I´m a frequent reader of your Rolex page and thank you for a wonderful page! 

However when I visited your page today I saw that you say that Bathyscaphe Trieste Submersible did it´s dive with the Deepsea special in 1953 but it was in 1960.

Best Regards 
Daniel F

This story is so huge and can be confusing. Many people know about the 1960 record set by the Bathyscaphe Trieste with a DEEP SEA Special attached to the outside, but most people don't know or are not aware that in 1953, the Bathyscaphe Trieste also set an all-time depth record with a Rolex DEEP SEA Special attached to her, and that is really the significance of this watch. Below we see a photo of Jacques Piccard in 1953 taken in front of his Bathyscaphe Trieste, with the city of Trieste, Italy in the background, and he is examining the watch in the photo above. This photo is from Part 3 of this story and it is titled, "Rolex DEEP-SEA SPECIAL 1953 Prototype."

Just to be crystal clear, there were two Bathyscaphe Trieste dives with Rolex DEEP-SEA Special watches. 

The first dive was in 1953 and used the DEEP SEA Number 3 (3,150 Meteres). Jacques & his father, August Piccard were pilots.


The second dive was in 1960 and used the DEEP SEA Number 3 (10,916 Meteres) Jacques Piccard & U.S. Navy pilot, Don Walsh were pilots.

The following timeline details these achievements. So click on the image and zoom in at the bottom of the illustration to see these events:

Stainless Paul Newman Daytona Shatters Auction Record

...Rolex Super Coolness...

The World's First 

Million Dollar Rolex Daytona

Stainless Paul Newman Daytona 

Shatters Auction Record

Christies Auction House Sells For $1,089,186

37.5MM 1969 Reference 6263/6239: Case Number 2,197,870

It is awe inspiring, and I imagine it was bound to finally happen. An extremely rare stainless steel Paul Newman Daytona, with an exotic dial sold last night for over One Million Dollars in Geneva, Switzerland at the Christies Rolex Daytona Auction. This watch is considered to be one-of-a-kind, and it is the only authentic Daytona with a a black exotic "Paul Newman" dial, with screw down pushers. This represents the first time in history a Rolex Daytona has sold for more than a million dollars! 

The Wold's First Million Dollar Rolex Daytona

That's pretty amazing, if you think about it, that a Rolex watch that sold for under $500 forty four years ago, increased in value and sold for more than 2000 times its original retail cost. Think about that for a second, over a Million dollars for a stainless steel watch! Wow!!! Pretty mind-blowing!!! I think it goes to show the value vintage Rolex collectors place on aesthetic beauty coupled with superb condition and magnificent timeless design. I mean if you look at the Daytona, it is stunningly good looking...

Pictured below is a photo of Paul Newman sporting his "Exotic Dial" Rolex Daytona, which today is considered mythical among vintage Rolex collectors. Just to be clear, the watch that sold, which is pictured above, is really kind of a 'reverse' Paul Newman, in the sense that its dial colors are inverted from the one Paul Newman wore, which is pictured below on a FatStrap. 

Also, Paul Newman's exotic dial Daytona did not have screw down pushers. The term "Paul Newman Daytona" really connotes an "exotic" dial, with the outer track that is the same color as the subdials.

Eric Ku, vintage Rolex dealer and collector extraordinaire, and owner of the Vintage Rolex Forum took the photo seen below as the Exotic Dial Daytona rocketed-up quickly in price last night in Geneva, Switzerland to blast past the million dollar mark at Christie's Auction last evening.

Hard To Believe!?!? Another Rolex Reference 4113 from John Goldberger The Most Beautiful 4113 In The World!

Hard To Believe!?!?

Another Rolex Reference 4113 from John Goldberger

"The Most Beautiful 4113 In The World!"

Two days ago, a new auction record was set by Christie's Auction House in Geneva when they sold a 1942 Rolex Split-Seconds Chronograph for $1.16 Million.

This watch is very rare and there are only 8 known examples in existence. Back in 2008, I showcased another example of the elusive Rolex Reference 4113 owned by John Goldberger, and just yesterday, John Goldberger sent me and email and said:

Hi Jake!

I just thought I would show you the most beautiful Rolex Reference 4113 in the World! My friend bought it one month ago.

Ciao John

Record Setting Rolex Auction Price $1.16 Million 1942 Rolex Split-Seconds Chronograph [44mm: Reference 4113]

Record Setting Rolex Auction Price: $1.16 Million

1942 Rolex Split-Seconds Chronograph

[Stainless Steel 44mm: Reference 4113]

On May 16, 2011, Christie's Auction House in Geneva set an all-time record for the selling price of a Rolex when they successfully auctioned a very rare 1942 Rolex Chronograph [Reference 4113] for $1.16 Million. As legend has it, Rolex made 12 of these watches, and there are only 8 known to exist today.

The ethos of this model is shrouded in mystery. As a matter of fact, Rolex never showcased or made this model available to the public, and it was never documented or illustrated in any Rolex collateral material. Christie's suggested it was possible these watches were made as gifts to famous race car drivers and team owners during the early 1940s. Others speculate these watches were made for the Italian Army during World War II.

One of the very interesting features of this rare model it that it is a whopping 44mm, which means it is not quite as large as the 47mm Panerai watches Rolex made during the same era (for the Italian Royal Navy) but pretty large. The Rolex Reference 4113 remains to this day the only split-seconds chronograph Rolex has ever made.

Back in 2008, I showcased another known example of the Rolex 4113.

Here is the Christie's Auction House video of the Rolex Reference 4113