Handsome In A Big, Brawny, Uniquely Rolex Sort Of Way
Everything-proof to an ocean depth of 660 feet
Yachting Magazine: March 1966
One of my favorite features on Jake's Rolex World is exploring vintage Rolex magazine ads, and this one is just stunning and eye-opening in an amazing way!!! Why am I so fascinated with older Rolex ads like this 1966 Rolex Submariner ad from March of 1966? Because it conveys Rolex design intent and ethos, and it is just so cool, innovative and authentic.
Rolex history is just so incredible!!! To put things in a proper context, consider the fact this ad came out only 12 years after the Rolex Submariner had been on the market–that's a half-century ago!!!
I was just going through Jake's Rolex World Archives and discovered this image I originally published sixteen years ago, back in 2008 and I still love this image!!!
The black strap above is a braided perlon NATO strap, but I think if somebody could figure out how to make a similar looking strap, but similar to Apples fitted Braided Solo Loop, it would be a mega-hit!!!! Why? Because the braided Solo Loop has no buckle or clasp, is ultra comfortable, durable and very secure on the wrist.
Pete took this great photo of his vintage Rolex Submariner with the fat glass sitting on his copy of John Goldberger's book titled 100 Superlative Rolex Watches...This super high style crystal from the late 1960 and early 1970s gives this vintage Rolex Submariner some collectors go crazy for!!!
Véronique De Kock won the Miss Belguim beauty contest in 1995. She also competed in the Miss World pageant in 1995 and Miss Universe contest in 1996. Today Véronique is a TV personality in Belguim.
Véronique De Kock has been wearing Rolex watches for many years now as we see from all the photographs of her. In the photo above we see Véronique wearing a yellow gold Rolex Daytona, and on the photos below, taken years ago, we see her wearing a stainless steel Submariner.
But a striking new discovery by historian Nick Gould has unveiled a second Rolex in the emperor’s collection—a Rolex Submariner—captured in a photograph from either 1953 or 1955 in Cannes, France. This image, taken during Bao Dai’s exile, reveals a lesser-known side of the emperor and adds a fresh chapter to the legacy of both the man and the brand. The photo is dated from 1953 and was taken by Edward Quinn.
The Discovery: A Submariner in Exile
Nick Gould’s find—a photograph of Bao Dai wearing a Rolex Submariner—offers a rare glimpse into the emperor’s life on the French Riviera. Dated to either 1953 or 1955, the image shows Bao Dai in a casual setting, the Submariner worn on his left his wrist on an Oyster Bracelet, accompanied by a video from the same period, this evidence places the emperor in Cannes, far from the imperial splendor of his past. Yet, a debate lingers: the photographer’s website hints at 1953, aligning with the Submariner’s debut year. Whether 1953 or 1955, the discovery cements Bao Dai’s connection to another Rolex icon.
Bao Dai: From Throne to Riviera
Born in 1913, Bao Dai ascended to Vietnam’s throne at age 12, ruling under French colonial oversight until his deposition in 1945. By the 1950s, he was in exile in France, trading palaces for a life of leisure along the Côte d’Azur.
Known for his love of luxury—yachts, cars, and fine timepieces—Bao Dai’s taste is epitomized by the Reference 6062, a moonphase marvel with diamond markers that fetched $5.1 million at auction in 2017.
Yet the Submariner tells a different story: a shift toward practicality, a watch suited to a man adapting to a new reality. Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was a game-changer—a dive watch built for utility with its water-resistant case and luminous dial. By 1955, it was gaining momentum as a symbol of rugged elegance.
Bao Dai’s Submariner, though its exact reference (perhaps a 6204 or 6205) remains unclear due to the photo’s limitations, underscores the watch’s early appeal. From its launch, the Submariner transcended its tool-watch origins, catching the eye of an emperor in exile.
Two Watches, Two Worlds
The contrast between Bao Dai’s Rolexes is striking. The Reference 6062, with its black dial and opulent design, reflects his imperial past—a relic of extravagance. The Submariner, rugged and restrained, mirrors his life in Cannes: a blend of sophistication and simplicity. Together, they showcase Bao Dai’s nuanced relationship with Rolex, spanning the spectrum from lavish to utilitarian.
A Legacy Enhanced
This discovery elevates the Submariner’s origin story, linking it to a figure of historical heft. Whether the photo dates to 1953, making Bao Dai an early adopter, or 1955, as the video suggests, it captures a moment of transition—for the emperor and the watch. For Rolex aficionados, this is a revelation, proving that even in exile, Bao Dai’s wrist remained a showcase for the brand’s finest creations.
A Timeless Tale
The Submariner on Bao Dai’s wrist is more than a footnote—it’s a testament to Rolex’s enduring allure. From the depths of the sea to the shores of Cannes, its journey began with pioneers like Bao Dai, whose discerning eye helped shape its legend. As horological history unfolds, discoveries like this remind us: the past always has more to reveal.
Update: Nick Gould emailed the archive and they said according to their records the photo was taking in 1953, which certainly makes things more interesting...
This is one of those things you have to see to believe: This is arguably the very first example I am aware of a Rolex Submariner advertisement and it was originally published around Christmas, 1954. The most interesting detail in my mind is that it was published 70 Christmases ago, and at the time the Rolex Submariner sold for only $150!?!!
Rolex mechanical movements are absolute works of art, and the latest Submariner 41MM Reference 124060 (pictured above) features the Caliber 3230 automatic mechanical movement (Pictured below) as well as the 3235 movement for the Submariner DATE model.
In order for the newest Submariner to keep superb mechanical time it depends on Rolex's waterproof 'Oyster' case which Rolex originally patented and brought to market in 1926. Proper movement lubrication is also paramount for excellent timekeeping which is why Rolex developed its own proprietary new lubricants that were developed in-house. Rolex's special state-of-the-art lubricant is not only a trade secret but significantly increases the dependable longevity and timekeeping performance.
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) once responded to King Lois XVI's request for him to make a perfect watch by saying:
"Show me the perfect lubricant and I will show you the perfect watch."
—Abraham-Louis Breguet
Automatic Kinetic Energy Winding
Rolex developed and patented their super innovative 'Perpetual' rotor movement design in 1931, which is considered to be one of the greatest innovations in timekeeping. This free-spinning, self-winding rotor mechanism pivots on a central axle while capturing all the kinetic energy created by the wearers wrist movement, and allows the watch to constantly wind itself while being worn—all without the worry of overwinding.
This game-changing design is beautifully decorated despite the fact the movement inside the case is never seen by the owner. Methinks Rolex should consider implementing exhibition casebacks to showcase this splendor :-) I mean it really is a shame Rolex owners can't witness and enjoy the beauty of their watch movement. The bridges on the movement are satin finished, circular-grained or snailed while the gear trains and plates are circular-grained. All screw heads are mirror-polished coupled with precisely beveled edges.
The Rolex caliber 32XX Series movements feature a traversing balance bridge which isolates the oscillator from the automatic rotor and results in greatly improved shock-resistance and increased chronometric performance. The photo below brings us in for a close-up of the heart of the Rolex movement which shows the Oscillator with the Paraflex shock absorber precisely positioned on top, which is in the lower center of the photo. On the right side we see the gold 'end shake' screw which is surrounded by 7 micro-adjustment markers which remind me of a Keith Haring painting :-) Ironically, the 7 indexes are for balance height/endshake adjustment but 1/4 of a turn of the gold screw equals only .01MM, so the individual marks aren't very helpful per se.
Paraflex Shock Absorber
The ruby red and gold Paraflex (pictured above and below) sits atop the Oscillator, which in a mechanical watch keeps precise time. The Rolex Paraflex (pictured below in detail) is an exclusive and highly precise shock absorber Rolex developed and patented in 2005.
Rolex has fitted their movements with shock absorbers since the mid 1930s which protect the escapement and balance wheel from shock that might cause the watch to become less precise if dropped or subjected to violent shocks like if you were to swing a golf club while wearing a Rolex. Rolex developed and designed the precise Paraflex geometry with 3D modeling which guarantees it remains properly and precisely positioned without risk of distortion or deformation.
Rolex Oscillator
The robust in-house manufactured Rolex Oscillator (pictured below) consists of three superlatively manufactured parts which result in optimal frequency response coupled with peerless reliability:
Balance staff which is the skinny silver spooled part with the red ruby. A balance staff is highly subject and sensitive to shock, and thus needs to be robustly designed and manufactured.
Large Balance wheel which is the gold outer wheel that features adjustable gold microstella nuts (seen better in second photo below) to ensure it maintains high-precision regulating, which results in increased stability while achieving a perfect balance.
Parachrom blued hairspring which is exclusive to Rolex barely measures one centimeter in diameter. This in-house manufactured hairspring is made from a special niobium-zirconium-oxygen alloy and is made in an ultra-hot fusion furnace specifically developed by Rolex physicists and engineers for this purpose.
The proprietary Rolex oscillator beats at 28,800 times per hour, which breaks down to 8 times per second. This results in supremely precise dependability coupled with exacting accuracy.
When I visited Rolex in Geneva in 2013 and toured all four of their factories I saw the super precise machinery that makes the beautiful cobalt blue Parachrom hairspring which completely blew my mind! The Parachrom hairspring is made from a niobium, zirconium and oxygen alloy which has a melting point of 4350.2° Fahrenheit (2399° Celsius) while maintaining a tensile strength of 330-620 MPa.
The exclusive Rolex Parachrom is made from a paramagnetic alloy which is immune to magnetic fields which would normally effect a standard ferromagnetic hairspring, and is an order-of-magnitude more resistant to shock than normal hairsprings. The Parachrom hairspring measures 1 centimeter in diameter yet it's finer than a human hair. If you were to uncoil the Parachrom it would form a 20 centimeter ribbon that is 50 microns thick by 150 microns wide.
Rolex points out:
"The outermost coil of the hairspring is curled towards the centre to counter the effects of gravity. This allows perfectly balanced and concentric (isochronous) oscillations of the balance wheel-hairspring assembly and contributes to greater chronometric precision whatever the position of the watch."
Rolex Escapement
The Rolex escapement (pictured below) is not only a conquest of microtechnology, but what makes the famous 'tick-tock' noise (Think 60 Minutes Stopwatch sound ;-) The 'tick' noise is made by the tooth of the escape wheel locks when they move against the pallets of the lever, then when it is released by the oscillators sweeping motion the pallet fork allows the wheel to 'escape' until is locks against the second pallet which results in the 'tock' noise.
Rolex profoundly points out:
"The pallet fork continues its infinite pendular beat against the oblique teeth for the escapement wheel precisely 28,800 times every hour—14,400 'ticks' and 14,400 'tocks'. That's 250 Million times per year! We are at the very heart of the Rolex Perpetual movement, where its pace is distilled with chronometric precision."
In short, the current Rolex Submariner is as magnificently beautiful and precisely engineered on the inside as the outside as seen is all these highly detailed illustrative photos.
Paul Schutzer was an American photojournalist who worked for LIFE Magazine. His name may not be familiar but some of his photographs are instantly recognizable, and he is arguably one of the great photojournalists of the 20th Century.
Note from Jake: After Nick wrote this story, Ralf from Germany send in this superb 1965 photo of Paul wearing his Submariner as a real tool watch.
The earliest photo I came across of Schutzer wearing a Rolex timepiece was in 1958. He was covering the inauguration of newly elected Argentina's newly elected president Arturo Frondizi in Buenos Aires.
Schutzer followed Presidential candidate John. F Kennedy during his successful campaign against Richard Nixon in 1960. While traveling onKennedy'strain, Schutzer snapped a photograph of JFK reading through some notes while lying down in his cabin. What makes the photograph so cool, is the fact Schutzer took it through the reflection of the mirror. It shows Schutzer wearing his stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual, while JFK is talking to someone at the door in the background.
"It doesn't just tell time. It tells history"
Schutzer took the iconic photo of Bobby Kennedy with his wife and kids, wearing their pajamas just before bedtime in their home in Maclean, Virginia on April 30, 1957.
The famous photograph below of JFK at his inauguration ball on January 20th 1961, after being elected the 35th President of the United States, was taken by Schutzer.
Paul Schutzer was a regular in Washington D.C. and attended the March on Washington on August 28, 1963 and he shot this magnificently profound photo of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. standing in the Lincoln Memorial rotunda.
In 1962, Schutzer travelled to Iran to cover the aftermath of an earthquake. Schutzer was wearing his Oyster Perpetual on Oyster bracelet, which is clearly seen on his wrist in the picture below.
In 1964, Schutzer went to Israel, where he took photographs of the Israeli Army and is seen below next to a group of marching female soldiers. His trusty Oyster Perpetual can be seen on his left wrist.
In 1965, Schutzer was sent to cover the Vietnam War, and his photograph of a captured Viet Cong solider was the cover photo for the November 1965 issue of LIFE Magazine.
Schutzer was photographed wearing a No Crown Guard Submariner during his time in Vietnam, which is clearly recognisable due to the bezel, dial and Oyster bracelet. I can't tell the exact reference but due to the crown size being small it is either a reference 6536 or 5508 Submariner.
Paul Shuzter was an amazing photographer. “Unfortunately his career was cut short as he was killed while on assignment during the first day while covering the ‘Six-Day War’ in 1967. One thing is for certain and that is the fact his images will live on as part of our historical record.
Federal Reserve Chairman Rolex Submariner Reference 16610
Jerome Powell has been in the news a lot lately as the Federal Reserve has recently hiked up interest rates again to try to fight inflation, so I thought it would be a good time to take a look at Powell.
Some people believe the President of the United States is the most powerful man in the world, and some would say the Chairman of Federal Reserve is actually more powerful. Certainly, the Chairman of the Federal Reserve is one of the most powerful people in the world of finance as they control fiscal policy for the United State Economy, which is the largest in the world. In the video below from September 21, 2022 we witness Jerome Powell announce a 0.75 precent rate rise, where he talks about his goal to curb inflation and bring it back down to 2% annually.
Below is a video from September 23, 2022 that features Chairman Powell on the subject of "Transitioning to the Post-pandemic Economy" with the full board of governors for the first time in 9 years.
Jerome Powell—also known by his nickname of Jay Powell—is the current Chairman of the Fed and as we see in the photo above he wears a vintage Rolex Submariner.
It is interesting to see the Chairman of the Federal Reserve wearing a Rolex Submariner for a few different reasons that come to mind. First, I've said many times before that Rolex is like its own country and Rolex watches themselves are a currency in and of themselves. So it's interesting to see Chairman Powell wearing Rolex currency on his wrist. Secondly, The Submariner is such a timeless, classic, masculine watch.
Jerome Powell has a somewhat unusual background for being the Chairman of the Fed as he does not have a degree in economics, but is a lawyer by training. I included four detailed videos that feature Jerome Powell below, and if you watch them you will not only see him rockin' his Submariner but more importantly get a great idea of his intellectual prowess...
Warren Buffett
On Jerome Powell
"I think Jay Powell is terrific Chairman of the Fed...I've listened to what he's had to say. I love the fact Jay Powell is Chairman of the Fed...He will do what in his judgment is best for the American economy over time. There isn't any question about that...He knows what his job is and he will do it."
—Warren Buffet
Warren Buffett is an international treasure. The way he speaks reminds me of Yoda. He is like Yoda talking economics...The CNBC video below is SUPER PROFOUND!!! At around 16 minutes into the interview, Warren offers his opinion on Jerome Powell, the Chairman of the Federal Reserve.
Of course, Warren Buffett is no stranger to the crown as he has been wearing his yellow gold Rolex Day-Date for decades...
Michael is a reader who wrote-in and included the photo above of his two deeply meaningful Rolex Submariner models. Michael originally asked me not to publish his letter, but I thought it was such a nice note I reached out to him and asked his permission to publish it, to which he responded:
'I think it is a sad story and your readers would not want to read such a story, but if you think so you can publish it.'
I found Michael's letter emotionally moving in a loving way and I can relate to his story. The interesting thing is that jewelry items—including fine watches—are built to last indefinitely (if taken care of properly) but we as human beings sadly are not.
I own a bracelet that belonged to my Aunt Dora Jane who raised me, and it was on her wrist all the time. So much so, it was a trademark part of her personality.
Today, when I hold my Aunt's bracelet in my hands and look at it, two things come to mind:
First, it Deja Vu's me out in a great way as I feel her energy emanating from it! Great memories of the time we shared together come streaming back and bathe me is a tidal wave of positive nostalgia. Yes, I have some sad memories of her, but I don't tend to focus on them—kind of like Barbara Streisand's hauntingly magnificent lyrics from "The Way We Were" from 1975 which you can enjoy below:
Secondly, it trips me out, how in life we all leave behind relics of our life when we depart this existence, and it never ceases to amaze me how a piece of jewelry can so easily outlast a human, while acting as a nostalgic memento or miniature time machine that can transport us back so far on our own timeline.
So Micheal, I don't find your story to be sad. I find it to be an uplifting celebration of your parents who's memory is enshrined in your two beautiful timeless Rolex Submariner models.
Below is Michael's note he sent in:
Dear Jake,
First of all, I would like to thank you for your work with your passionate blog. I am a very big fan of your blog.
As a child, I grew up in the last years of the Cold War next to an Air Force base in West Germany. In my childhood I always watched airplanes with my father and was fascinated. This was also my first contact with ROLEX, after I got to know some pilots with their GMT MASTERS. That is why I am so fascinated by your reports on very different people.
In addition, of course, there are the James Bond films. And so I had always dreamed about my own SUBMARINER.
Unfortunately, my father died early. When I graduated from university, my mother gave me my first Submariner, as a gift and I didn't even take the watch off to shower or sleep. That was about ten years ago.
It became a 14060M. Unfortunately, my mother also died last year after a serious illness. As a reminder for all the wonderful hours with my dearly loved parents, I was able to buy my second with my own money.
My licensed dealer, was very patient with me and I was one of the first owners of a 124060. There are around 10 years between the watches and both fascinate me.
Attached is a photo of the two watches with a toy from the Cold War era, a Soviet BTR-60 tank as it can be found today. Perhaps, the quality of the picture is sufficient for your blog and you will give me great pleasure in publishing it. The letter is FOR YOUR EYES ONLY. Always wanted to write this term. ;-) Please go on with your blog!
Historically Rolex has always been extremely secretive and discreet, and no journalists in the past have ever been invited "INSIDE ROLEX" to explore and report on all four Rolex Manufacturing faclities in Switzerland.
In November 2013, this changed when Rolex invited Jake to take an unprecdented journey into the heart of Rolex to learn and report on everything he witnessed and learned.
This Super-Detailed 3 Part Story is a "MUST READ" story for anybody who wants to understand what really makes Rolex tick.
