I am almost done with my coverage of Rolex's novelties launched recently at Watches and Wonders. Today we are taking a look at Rolex's brand-new 40MM Rolex Explorer which I think is a brilliant new model and here is why: I have NEVER been much of a fan of the 36MM size of the standard Rolex Explorer. Why? Rolex introduced the 36MM Explorer in 1953 at Basel Fair, which was an homage to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual models that Rolex had equipped the British exploration team that were the first to summit Mount Everest.
1953 Rolex Magazine Explorer Model Introduction Ad
The Rolex Explorer ad pictured above first appeared in the Geographic Magazine in 1953. Notice how primitive the early Rolex bracelet was in the sense it lacked Solid End Links (SOL).
At the time, 36MM was a larger size. If you fast-forward 71 years later to 2023, the bottom line is that human's have grown MUCH larger, and thus it makes perfect sense the Rolex has been modernized. This is not the first time Rolex upsized the Explorer as they came out with a 39MM model years ago, but it's scaling was off as Adrian Barker discusses in his excellent video seen below.
Don't worry, Rolex is still making the 36MM Explorer Model, so if you prefer a smaller size you will maintain this option. You can learn much more by checking out my story titled, The Complete History: Rolex Conquers Mount Everest.
Since we are on the subject of Tudor's new factory, I can't think of anybody better to take a take us on a tour than Adrian Barker from Bark and Jack as seen below in his great videos:
It's hard to believe Rolex launched their 2023 novelties two weeks ago and I am still covering them!?!! One of the most interesting things Rolex did was introduce a new Oystersteel and white gold model, which is pictured below. This is available on both an Oyster and Jubilee stainless steel bracelet. The entire model is made from Rolex's Oystersteel and the bezel is white gold. This model has as a MSRP of $15,900 in the United States.
Rolex. Oyster. Perpetual. Superlative Chronometer. These words on the dial symbolize all that makes a Rolex watch special. Ever since Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf unveiled his unique vision of watchmaking more than a century ago, the quest for excellence has been constant. This commitment to innovation, to push beyond the limits, based on unrivalled ingenuity and technical skill, is embodied in these words that have become synonymous with water resistance, autonomy, precision and durability.
Rolex made some major/minor changes to their exalted Daytona models at watches and wonders, and I noticed the superb graphics (seen below) on Instagram from @RolexByKell which perfectly illustrate the differences between the outgoing and incoming models. As we see below, Rolex made the 5 minute markers MUCH skinnier, as well as the making the hands skinnier.
My personal preference is that I like the fatter hands and markers MUCH better on the outgoing Reference 116500LN!!! Why? I think the fatter hands and markers give the watch a more masculine vibe, which to my way of thinking is more masculine and bold. I also like the thicker/fatter subdial rings. It is interesting to note that the new model seems to have a glossier white dial, kind of like the retro stainless Daytona model with a white porcelain dial...
Rolex also made the case a few millimeters larger, and added a metal chamfered edge on the bezel which I like very much, as it should make the bezel sturdier by protecting the ceramic bezel from damage. That being said, the new 'Panda' does not look as bold as the outgoing model. Actually, this change is a retro move to take it back to the origins when it was a Zenith Daytona, which had the skinnier hands, makers and subdials, which Rolex changed when them moved the Daytona to an in-house movement.
DAYTONA OYSTERFLEX
GLIDELOCK INNOVATION
Captain Danny mentioned to me that Rolex really pushed the envelope for its 60th Anniversary of the Rolex Le Mans DAYTONA model by adding their GLIDELOCK system (pictured below) to their OysterFlex bracelet on the yellow gold Daytona. This represents the first time in Rolex history that Rolex has offered the GLIDELOCK system on a Daytona.
Rolex shared the following:
Among the versions of the new-generation Cosmograph Daytona introduced this year, the one in 950 platinum, recognizable by its ice blue dial, is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. The variant in Oystersteel as well as the yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow gold), both of which sport a white lacquer dial, are also fitted on this bracelet. The 18 ct Everose gold version – with a bright black dial and Sundust counters – is similarly offered on an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet remains the most universal in the Oyster Perpetual collection and is known for its robustness.
The new version in 18 ct yellow gold with a golden dial and bright black counters is fitted on an Oysterflex bracelet. Developed by Rolex and patented, this innovative bracelet is made up of two flexible, curved metal blades – one for each of the sections – overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer.
The Oyster bracelet and the Oysterflex bracelet of the Cosmograph Daytona are both equipped with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. The Oyster bracelet features the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version in 950 platinum and that in 18 ct Everose gold, the bracelet also includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity. The Oysterflex bracelet, for its part, is furnished with the Rolex Glidelock extension system. Developed by the brand and patented, this inventive mechanism with a rack located under the clasp cover enables fine adjustments of the bracelet length, without the need for tools. The Rolex Glidelock on the Oysterflex bracelet has six notches of approximately 2.5 mm, allowing the length of the bracelet to be adjusted easily up to some 15 mm.
NEW DAYTONA MOVEMENT
REFERENCE 4131
THIS BEAUTY IS A BEAST
Rolex created a super-innovative new movement that will be exclusively found in all new Daytona models, which carries a Caliber Reference of 4131 as seen below in all its magnificence.
Rolex says of this new movement:
PERPETUAL CALIBRE 4131
The new-generation Cosmograph Daytona is equipped with calibre 4131, a chronograph movement unveiled this year, entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability. It incorporates a chronograph function with a reduced number of components, thereby also enhancing the movement’s reliability. It is engaged by a robust mechanism with a column wheel and vertical clutch, allowing an instantaneous and extremely precise start. The bridges of calibre 4131 feature a Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration, which differs from the traditional Côtes de Genève by the addition of a slight polished groove between each band.
Calibre 4131 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is fitted with an optimized ball bearing.
Calibre 4131 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 4131 extends to approximately 72 hours.
The Cosmograph Daytona is now equipped with calibre 4131. This new chronograph movement, entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, is an evolution of calibre 4130. Unveiled in 2023, it incorporates a number of the major inno- vations that Rolex has brought to its movements, including the Chronergy escapement to, among other purposes, reduce energy loss, Paraflex shock absorbers to protect the heart of the movement, and an optimized ball bearing to enhance self-winding.
Calibre 4131 also features a new aesthetic for the brand: a cut- out oscillating weight and, on the bridges, an exclusive Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration – a reinterpretation of an iconic finishing in traditional Swiss watchmaking.
The photo below shows the new Caliber 4131 Rolex Movement in the Platinum 'Playtona' Daytona which features an exhibition case-back, which showcases this magnificent new workhorse movement.
In the wonderful world of Rolex, not much is cooler than The Complete History of the Rolex GMT-Master!!! TUDOR is on a tear lately and at Watches And Wonders last week surprised everybody when they introduced a new Pepsi Tudor GMT-Master model with a white opaline dial. Our Captain Danny was especially surprised as he contacted Tudor 4 years ago and begged them to come out with a Tudor GMT-Master with a white dial, to which Tudor responded "No Way, Jose!"
UPDATE April 8, 2023: Captain Danny sent me a message and said: "Great story about the Vanilla Pepsi. BTW here’s the Delta mockup I had sent to Tudor. As you can see, the watch matches perfectly a Delta jet livery."
The Vanilla Pepsi in not a new idea, and I originally showcased the idea on RolexMagazine 15 years ago in 2008 in a story titled 'Jake's Cherry Vanilla GMT Design Idea...'. In that article I showed off my idea of a watch design I would love to see, that I dubbed the Cherry Vanilla GMT as seen below.
In 2008, I also showcased an idea I dubbed the Oreo Cookie, which is pictured below. Percy from the German R-L-X forum made this watch by putting an all black GMT-Master bezel insert on a Polar white dial Explorer II. So basically, this would be the result if a Polar Explorer had a baby with an all black bezel GMT-Master!!!
I begged Rolex to bring such a model to life and still think they should!!!!! Why? For many reasons. First and foremost, people LOVE Rolex spinning bezels, and play with them like fidget widgets not to mention, it just looks so cool! Rolex if you are listening, PLEASE make an Oreo Cookie GMT model!!!
This article would not be replete without my customary video response message which comes courtesy of Van Halen!!!!:
Also, Percy put a Pepsi Bezel on his Explorer II and thus created what I dubbed and showcased in my 2008 article as the Vanilla Pepsi. But where did this color combination idea come from?
It turns out Rolex once made a Vanilla Pepsi, kind-of, sort of...The apocryphal story put forth at the time said "When Rolex introduced the GMT-Master in 1955, they produced it with standard black dials and Pan Am Airlines gave them to all their pilots to wear. The executive at Pan Am were jealous, so they ordered white dial models which were exclusively made for Pan Am executives only."
So how do you explain the 100% authentic Rolex GMT-Master from the later 1950s with a white dial? This model was NEVER sold by Rolex nor made available to the public.
It turns out it was an early prototype, as it used to be been fairly standard for Rolex to make early pre-production prototypes with white dials. The interesting point is so many people originally believed the false narrative that was created by auction houses who wanted to see higher auction results, and people just grew to want such a model, and last week Tudor, which is owned by Rolex made many collectors dreams come true with the introduction of this new model.
This new model comes in a 41MM case and the best news is it retails for only $4300, which is not only much cheaper than an equivalent Rolex, not to mention that Rolex doesn't even offer a bold model like this!!! Hopefully Rolex will be able to keep up with demand for this beauty!
This new model reminds me of Celebration Cake as seen below from SusieCakes. This new model pays homage to the new OP dials that Rolex debuted in 2020 ago as the colors of the bubbles and the dial ground are based upon them. My best guess is that model is targeted at ladies who want a fun watch, but it seems a lot of dudes also like it...
One thing I have learned about Rolex after 15 years of publishing RolexMagazine.com is Rolex is often unpredictable in the sense once you think you figured them out you realize you know very little... It's almost safe to say you should always expect the unexpected, and that is exactly what Rolex just shocked the watch world with at Watches And Wonders 2023 in Geneva, Switzerland when they launched this brand new 36MM Day-Date dubbed TIME STAMPED WITH EMOTION that features a bold champlevé enamel dial with applied baguette-cut sapphire 5 minute markers on top of puzzle pieces.
-LOVE
-FAITH
-ETERNITY
-GRATITUDE
-PEACE
-HOPE
-HAPPY
This all-new model also replaces the 31 numbers on the date wheel with emoji symbols, and the Day of the week wheel is replaced with 7 different encouragingly positive words as listed above. Of course this playful and fun new model features a 100 meter water resistance rating.
Somebody once said if you have to ask the price, you can't afford it. I would say if somebody were to ask what the point is of a 'DAY-DATE' watch model is that can't tell you the day or date, I would say, if you need to know the day or date, you can't afford to wear this watch. In other words, if you live a life where every day is like Christmas and every night is like New Years Eve, this watch may be perfect for you. The Rolex 'PRESIDENT' has long been the nickname for the DAY-DATE model, which has historically been a business/political tool watch.
This makes this new model is a fun/carefree tool watch, but one that can be instantly recognized from across a room as it is so iconic, and we know it's just a matter of time before we see it showing up on the wrists of some famous celebrities who are too-cool for school...
THE
RAINBOW
CONNECTION
What's so amazing that keeps us stargazing
And what do we think we might see?
Someday we'll find it, the rainbow connection
The lovers, the dreamers and me...
In an increasingly complex world filled with discord (to use a Wilsdorfism) where we are bombarded with one seemingly confusing tragedy after another like Covid lockdown, Covid passports, Covid vaccination, Covid booster shots, spiraling inflation, school shootings, World War 3, and energy shortages, it's nice to see something so creative, light-hearted and fun! I would go so far to say that this new Rolex model makes my should sing with joy, just by looking at it.
After more than a century of playing it safe with relatively conservative models, Rolex let their hair down and seemingly opened up their kimono in the most puzzling way with the introduction of this most unexpected watch.
In many ways, this watch is like Miles Davis, who wore Brooks Brothers for many years, then evolved to a point where he would walk out on stage and perform an entire concert with his back to the audience. Is Rolex playing weird in 2023 or is there something more to it?
GIRLS JUST WANT
TO HAVE FUN!!!
There are so many images that begin racing thought my mind when I look at the new Rainbow Puzzle Dial Love Day-Date, so I thought I would share some with you...
At 36MM it's likely targeted toward woman who want a really fun watch that pops, not to mention setting the Day and Date on a Rolex President is not the easiest thing to figure out, so Rolex may have figured a foolproof method to ensure they are always correct.
When I first saw this new model the very first thing that popped into my head were the photos below of Jessica Simpson wearing her yellow gold Rolex Day-Date upside down, because after all, who really cares what the day or date is, and if the time is off by 6 hours, who cares?
If you look closely at the image below you will notice that Jessica Simpson's Rolex Day-Date is clearly upside down on her wrist but who really cares?
I know first hand, there are many women who wear a Day-Date as a beautiful bracelet and not as a precision time-keeper.
They are confused with how to properly set the time and date on a Rolex and in the case of the Day-Date, it's even more confusing. With this new model, wearers don't have to. Cindy Lauper's famous 1983 mega hit song titled "Girls Just Want To Have Fun", comes to mind. I want my MTV!!!
One of my favorite things to do is read peoples comments online, whether it's on Hodinkee.com or on forums. In a threat on RolexForums.com somebody said"
"They're trying to change the most famously "old man watch" ever into something more youthful."
As previously mentioned, the new Rolex LOVE-DATE reminds me of so many different things and song, of which I have included below. The first thing it kind of reminds me of is a Keith Haring painting as far as the the color palate and stroked outlines everywhere.
Don't bother looking for this new Rolex work of art on Rolex's website, as it's strangely not listed there. My understanding is that these watches are going to be rare as they will be produced in smaller quantities. This beauty incorporates the Rolex 3255 Caliber movement which oscillates at 28,800 beats per hour and includes a 72-hour power reserve. My prediction is this is going to be and all-the-rage statement piece among collectors, wrappers and super-leggy-models...Also, I can definitely see Sir Elton John rocking one of these Rolex DAY-DATE masterpieces...
This is NOT FAKE NEWS!!!
This is NOT your father's Rolex Day-Date
1964 Rolex Day-Date Magazine Ad from the "Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches."
One could argue this departure from the staid, old-fashioned Rolex Day-Date of yesteryear (as showcased above) really represents the completion of Rolex's metamorphosis from a high-quality Swiss watch brand to a true luxury goods brand, which began decades ago and is perhaps best worn and symbolized by Rolex Hotness, Jennifer Aniston as seen below, not as a day, or date keeper, but as a stylish, fashion bracelet that not only tells the time, but tells people you have arrived in a retro-futuristic, feel good, I WANT MY MTV / Right said Fred 'I'm too sexy for your cat' kind of way...
I have been a big fan of Adrian Barker from Bark And Jack for some time now, and in his newest video, Adrain offers an AMAZINGLY insightful overview of the novelties from Watches And Wonders! In particular, Adrian shares all kinds of information I had no idea about, and I love how he wastes zero time in this video. Enjoy!!!
Historically Rolex has always been extremely secretive and discreet, and no journalists in the past have ever been invited "INSIDE ROLEX" to explore and report on all four Rolex Manufacturing faclities in Switzerland.
In November 2013, this changed when Rolex invited Jake to take an unprecdented journey into the heart of Rolex to learn and report on everything he witnessed and learned.
This Super-Detailed 3 Part Story is a "MUST READ" story for anybody who wants to understand what really makes Rolex tick.
