Wednesday, April 12, 2017

PHILLIPS ROLEX MILESONTES 38 LEGENDARY WATCHES THAT SHAPED HISTORY





PHILLIPS

ROLEX MILESTONES

38 LEGENDARY WATCHES 
THAT SHAPED HISTORY

Phillips Auction House just published their online auction catalog for their upcoming Rolex Only auction that will take place on November 28, 2017, and they have some outrageous watches. Let's begin by taking a look at an extremely apropos watch, the very first Single Red Submariner, which was made in 1955. Man, you want to talk about timeless design!?!!




Speaking of the Rolex Submariner, next up we see a yellow gold Submariner from 1971, that has a cobalt blue dial that has developed a gorgeous patina that faded into a purple sunburst, and looks crazy. 



I believe this Rolex only auction represents a new turning point for Phillips, as well as creating a new high water mark for watch auctions in the sense the Phillips completely 'gets it'. In other words, their catalog is a work-of-art in-and-of-itself. This is because Phillips turned to Italian watch photography master, Pucci Papaleo to shoot the amazing photographs of their watches. When I say they get it, they realize that vintage Rolex watches are really high-art, and they are treating it that way.




Next we see the Rolex Moonphase Triple-Date Reference 6062 in yellow gold with a Jubilee bracelet. 





Tuesday, April 11, 2017

ROLEX TOP HAT SINGLE RED SUBMARINER






ROLEX TOP HAT

SINGLE RED SUBMARINER

I have been going crazy talking about the all-new Rolex Single RED SEA-DWELLER that Rolex recently introduced at BaselWorld 2017 in Switzerland. So much so, I almost kind of like a cat with some catnip...Some things in life are absolute classics, even if their time has passed (pun intended ;-) 




Michael Stockton from Fratello Watches recently published a story about his Single RED Rolex Submariner, which is a fantastic read!!! Michael tells the story behind his Rolex Submariner Reference 1680, and talks about it's High Hat Crystal. The photo above is of the greatest male dancer to ever live, Fred Astaire, and we see him sporting his Top Hat, which is on point for the High Hat crystal that came on the original 1680 Submariner as seen in the two photographs below from Michaels Awesome Rolex Story.



I must admit I have never really been a big fan of the High Hat crystal on the Submariner Single red Submariner Reference 1680, which explains why I am a huge fan of the 1967 Single Red SEA-DWELLER Reference 1655 Prototype, which instead has a nice low-profile crystal that is slightly domed. This is another reason I am so happy to see on the 50th Anniversary Rolex SEA-DWELLER it has such a low profile crystal.


Wednesday, April 05, 2017

Single Red Rolex SEA-DWELLER Prototype



Note: I originally published this story back on November 17, 2012, and I am sharing it with you now as I am preparing to add it's content to the 2017 BaselWorld introduction of the Single RED SEA-DWELLER also known as the SRSD.


Another Ultra-Rare
Single Red Rolex SEA-DWELLER Prototype
Set's New Record Auction Record for Submariner
Sells for $518,000

There are only 6 known examples of the Single Red Rolex SEA-DWELLER prototypes in the world, and this one, which belonged to a Japanese collector just set an all-time Submariner auction record when the Antiquorum Auction house sold it for 490,000 Swiss Francs ($ 518,000). You can learn everything about the Single Red SEA-DWELLER history in my Complete History Of The Rolex Submariner & SEA-DWELLER–Rolex Conquest Of The Ocean 18 Part Series.



Antiquorum Lot 126 was described as:

ROLEX REF 1665 – THE SINGLE RED PROTOTYPE – PATENT PENDING – 500M-1650FT – ONE OF SIX KNOWN Rolex - Ref. 1665 - Single Red Sea-Dweller - Patent Pending, Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 1650 ft. = 500 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," case No. 1602931, Ref. 1665. Made in 1967. Fine and extremely rare rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's chronometer wristwatch with double red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster Ref. 7206 bracelet with patent pending extension link.


Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back engraved: "Oyster, Gas Escape Valve, (Patent Pending)," helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving bezel for the decompression times, winding crown protected by the crown guard, inner case stamped IV.67. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" in red letters. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil de perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 15 mm. Approx. overall length 195 mm. Property of a Japanese Collector


The Rolex Sea-Dweller is one of the most purpose-fully designed watches that Rolex has ever made, and possible the most important diving watch of the second half of the 20th century. Born from a collaboration with various diving professionals, governmentally agencies, and Rolex, the watch was the fi rst to introduce the idea of the helium gas escape valve. This valve solved the problem of achieving deeper dives while maintaining the functionality and integrity of the watch. As an ongoing development, the Ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller saw many revisions and iterations with the most coveted being the very earliest examples. The watch offered up for auction here is one of those pieces. Never seen at auction before, including this particular example, there are 6 known examples of the “Single Red”. According to research, this may be one of the only two known examples with escape valve. The moniker is given for its one line of text on the dial, “SEA-DWELLER”. It is unique from other examples of the 1665 as the depth rating on the dial is 500m instead of the more common 600m. 


The dials also have a very rough and prototype feeling about their printing as the “DATE” in Oyster Perpetual DATE is much larger and seemingly added to the text as an afterthought. The luminous material on these watches also looks to be hand applied and many still glow, which is an attribute usually associated with the latest production gilt dial sports watches Rolex made in the late 1960s. These watches generally come in two confi gurations. The earliest ones have no helium gas escape valve, nor engravings on the outside of the caseback to denote this. These were the very fi rst examples that were given by Rolex to commercial divers to test in the fi eld. The subsequent ones that did have a gas escape value fi tted had an identical dial, but also bore a hand-engraving along the lip of the case that reads “OYSTER GAS ESCAPE VALVE PATENT PENDING”. This is very different from later examples (Including standard Patent Pending Ref. 1665s) as the engraving is done by hand and looks much more rough and hand made as opposed to being machined.


 The most signifi cant and important example would be this one, which can be argued is the very fi rst watch Rolex made to have the helium gas escape valve. These watches truly were the prototypes for subsequent production models of the Sea-Dweller. Their history, intertwined with the lives and contributions of important divers of the 1960’s make them one of the most historically signifi cant watches that Rolex ever made, and thus one of the most important dive Rolexes to have ever come for auction. A truly superlative example in rarity and condition. Bought by the current consignor in the late 1980's, the watch has remained unworn in the safe since its purchase and has remained in excellent original condition. Published in the Japanese magazine (illustrated above) in 1995, it is without doubt the most important SeaDweller offered at auction until now. We would like to especially thank Eric Ku for his help in researching this timepiece.


Tuesday, April 04, 2017

Jacques-Yves Cousteau The Living Manifestation Of The Rolex Submariner





The Living Manifestation Of The Rolex Submariner


Jacques-Yves Cousteau

Exclusive Rolex Submariner History Photo

So if you have been following the story I have been working on below, you will now I am constantly updating it with new information. This exclusive image will be added soon, and it shows legendary French Explorer, Jacques-Yves Cousteau rotating the bezel on this Rolex Submariner prototype as he prepares to go for a SCUBA dive back in the early 1950s. 


"The sea, once it casts its spell, 
holds one in its net of wonder forever." 

—Jacques-Yves Cousteau





They say people get dogs as pets that look like them, and as Jacques Cousteau himself said, "People protect what they love." I would argue that if the Rolex Submariner and SEA-DWELLER were an actual man, it would be Jacques-Yves Cousteau, and in my story below you can learn much more about why I believe he is the living manifestation of The Rolex Submariner and SEA-DWELLER.

Monday, April 03, 2017

The 1953 Rolex DEEP-SEA Special Exclusive Detailed Photo from Christie's



...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...


1953 Rolex DEEP-SEA Special

Exclusive Photo From

Christie's Auction House

When Rolex launched the all-new Single RED SEA-DWELLER last week at BaselWorld in Switzerland, it freaked me out, in a very positive way!!! It caused me to go crazy writing the story about it, which can be seen below this story. In doing so, it ignited a fire within, and I can't seem to stop working on writing it. So I thought that I would start publishing some new images that I plan to add to the story, before I add them. The exclusive image below of the 1953 Rolex DEEP-SEA Special prototype has never been published before in high-resolution:


This magnificent image comes courtesy of Christie's Auction House, vis-à-vis my fellow Rolex and Panerai research associate, Jose from Perezcope.com. Christie's Auction House successfully auctioned this ultra-rare Rolex in 2005 for around a quarter of a million dollars.


Just to be crystal-clear, this is a photo of the very first Rolex DEEP-SEA Special, that actually set the all-time depth record in 1953 attached to the outside of the Bathyscaphe Trieste Submersible. It has never been seen with this kind of detail and resolution. And for the record, I am still working very hard on the Single RED SEA-DWELLER story, and I have much more amazing undocumented Rolex history coming up soon!!!

Update: A reader of Jakes Rolex World wrote in and said:


Hi Jake

I´m a frequent reader of your Rolex page and thank you for a wonderful page! 

However when I visited your page today I saw that you say that Bathyscaphe Trieste Submersible did it´s dive with the Deepsea special in 1953 but it was in 1960.



Best Regards 
Daniel F

This story is so huge and can be confusing. Many people know about the 1960 record set by the Bathyscaphe Trieste with a DEEP SEA Special attached to the outside, but most people don't know or are not aware that in 1953, the Bathyscaphe Trieste also set an all-time depth record with a Rolex DEEP SEA Special attached to her, and that is really the significance of this watch. Below we see a photo of Jacques Piccard in 1953 taken in front of his Bathyscaphe Trieste, with the city of Trieste, Italy in the background, and he is examining the watch in the photo above. This photo is from Part 3 of this story and it is titled, "Rolex DEEP-SEA SPECIAL 1953 Prototype."



Just to be crystal clear, there were two Bathyscaphe Trieste dives with Rolex DEEP-SEA Special watches. 

The first dive was in 1953 and used the DEEP SEA Number 3 (3,150 Meteres). Jacques & his father, August Piccard were pilots.


The second dive was in 1960 and used the DEEP SEA Number 3 (10,916 Meteres) Jacques Piccard & U.S. Navy pilot, Don Walsh were pilots.

The following timeline details these achievements. So click on the image and zoom in at the bottom of the illustration to see these events:


Sunday, April 02, 2017

The Return of The Single RED SEA-DWELLER: Part 1 0f 6




The Complete History Of
The Rolex Submariner & SEA-DWELLER
Rolex's Conquest Of The Ocean
CHAPTER 19
Part 1 of 6 

As mentioned above, I am still working on this story, and still have much more to add and update, which is surprising because I believe it is already the single largest Rolex history story I have ever written. I say this because it already contains more than 250 photos and videos!!! So why am I going crazy writing and updating this story? Because I think it's one of the greatest Rolex stories in history, as the Submariner is one of the most iconic watches in history. Also, I believe the 50th Anniversary SEA-DWELLER—to a large extent—is the culmination of what the 50th Anniversary Submariner should have been!!! I want to stay focused on this story, but don't worry, when it is done I will offer my perspective on all the Rolex and Tudor watches launched at BaselWorld 2017 :-)





  Basel World 2017 - All New Model  




The Return Of The 

Single RED SEA-DWELLER

50th Anniversary Model


43MM: Reference 126600: Caliber 3235

What!?!! OMG!!!! I can't believe what I am seeing!?!! I was hoping for the 50th Anniversary of the SEA-DWELLER, Rolex would do something special, but this is over-the-top cool!!! Finally!?!! The long-ovedue return of The Single RED SEA-DWELLER!!!! and 43MM, with a relatively flat back, superb proportions, wider hands, and skinny case!!!!! with the new caliber 3235 movement!!!!! All my prayers have finally been answered!!!! A very exciting new chapter in the history of the Rolex Submariner & SEA-DWELLER is upon us...

"We must not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time." —T.S. Elliot




A Touch Of Red

So what is the big deal with this watch? Why am I so excited about it? For many reasons! First, is the fact the dial now has a touch of red, which breaks up the monotony of the black, white and silver color combination. Red is such a great color, and I would argue many things in life can benefit from a touch of red. On the color spectrum red, is located exactly in the middle between black and white. Also, the first SEA-DWELLER prototypes models, known as Single Red SEA-DWELLER watches had a red SEA-DWELLER dial designation. Notice in the image below how the perfectly scaled-up Single RED SEA-DWELLER has a completely different vibe than the standard boring SEA-DWELLER!?!! The red SEA-DWELLER designation really pops, and the larger size gives the watch more presence and a more masculine charismatic vibe.




The very first Rolex SEA-DWELLER models, which are extremely rare are referred to as a 'Single Red SEA-DWELLER' and have a Rolex Reference Number of 1665. These watches are typically worth upwards of a half a million dollars.


"History does not repeat itself, but it does rhyme." 

—Mark Twain

The photo below shows a very early Single RED Rolex SEA-DWELLER prototype, which is so much cooler and cleaner-looking than the Double Red SEA-DWELLER models. So the brand new for 2017 Rolex SEA-DWELLER looks very reminiscent of the original Single RED SEA-DWELLER prototype, as pictured below.




Perfect Design Balance

I put together the illustration below to make a few design language points. The Single Red SEA-DWELLER prototype pictured above came out at the same time as the Rolex 40MM Submariner Reference 1680, which was the first Rolex Submariner to have a DATE complication added. In other words, all Rolex Submariner models, prior to 1967 had NO DATE. Rolex also made the SUBMARINER designation in red on this model, which gave it that magnificent touch of red look, I spoke about earlier. The first watch below on the left is a Reference 1680 Single Red Submariner Date model, which is one of my favorite vintage Rolex sport models.



The watch on the far right is a standard 40MM Double Red SEA-DWELLER Reference 1665, from 1967. In the middle of the illustration above we see the the new for 2017 43MM Rolex SEA-DWELLER. The reason I put this scaled photo comparison together is to point out the fact the new 2017 SEA-DWELLER looks much, much more like the 1967 [Reference 1680] Single Red Submariner Date model than the 1967 [Reference 1665] Double RED SEA-DWELLER, which is one of the reasons I probably love it so much. In other words, I was never a big fan of the Double Red SEA-DWELLER as the two red lines of text contained too much red, and kind of canceled each other out elementally—not to mention having a total of five lines of text is way too busy, and the fact the second red line says Submariner 2000 is goofy and unnecessarily complex.

An obvious question is: "Why did Rolex make the very first Rolex SEA-DWELLER with a Single RED SEA-DWELLER designation, then switch to making all future SEA-DWELLER models with either a Double RED, or All WHITE dial designation?" In other words, why didn't Rolex keep making a Single RED SEA-DWELLER just like the first prototypes? This is speculation, but it may have been to offer a visual point of differentiation between the Reference 1680 Submariner and Reference 1665 SEA-DWELLER so people could easily tell the difference from any kind of distance. 

Also, notice the new 2017 SEA-DWELLER looks much, much more like the 1680 Single RED Submariner since it has a cyclops DATE magnifier, and the SEA-DWELLER up until the introduction of the 2017 NEVER had Rolex Cyclops Date Magnifier Window. In the final analysis, the design language of the 2017 SEA-DWELLER looks much more like the Single Red Submariner than the Double Red SEA-DWELLER, which in my opinion is a very, very good thing.



Single Red Submariner

The Single Red Submariner [Reference 1680] was made from 1967 to 1976, and it replaced the Rolex Submariner Reference 5513. Ironically, Rolex also offered the Reference 1680 in both Single Red, and all white options, and today the Single Red models are more sought after by collectors for obvious reasons. The Rolex Submariner Ad below is for a Single Red Submariner, and this is one of my favorite vintage Rolex Submariner ads.





Robert Redford

Just for point of reference, I am including a photo of Robert Redford rockin' his Single Red Submariner [Reference 1680] which he wore in the 1972 movie, named "The Candidate." 


The vintage Single RED Submariner has been one of my absolute favorite Rolex watches, and I could never understand why Rolex discontinued making them in 1976. I am including the photo below of a Single Red Submariner that is crystal clear and show just how amazing looking this watch is... Some readers might be wondering why I am writing and showing Single RED Submariner models, when I am covering the Single RED SEA-DWELLER. It's because, at least to my way of thinking, the SEA-DWELLER is a Submariner, by a different name.






Perfect Proportions

Also when Rolex introduced the Rolex DEEP-SEA SEA-DWELLER (DSSD) in 2008, I did not like it, since I thought it was WAY too thick. It looked too affected and you could not wear it very well with a cuffed dress shirt. Rolex seemed to agree and later introduced an all-new 40MM SEA-DWELLER, but it was too small in diameter and lacked the super-cool, retro Single RED SEA-DWELLER dial designation. The new 2017 SEA-DWELLER is 43MM in diameter, which is the perfect size and has perfect proportions as seen in the side profile view below. The watch is 15MM thick, and I wish it had less of a bubble back, like a Submariner, but its not that bad. Also, the side profile of the case is awesome!!!


I think Rolex should also make a 43 or 44MM Submariner model, as human beings have grown considerably in height and width since 1953. In other words, I am much bigger than my father and both grandfathers were in the mid-1950s. Also, the new model offers the Rolex Glidelock clasp system that allows the wearer to easily adjust the clasp without having to use any tools. 

There are also other proportional improvements Rolex made with the 50th Anniversary SEA-DWELLER when compared to the Rolex DEEP-SEA SEA-DWELLER (typically referred to as the DSSD) which is pictured in the infographic below on the far right. The scaling on the DSSD was weird and in my opinion, disproportionate. Obviously with a case thickness of almost 18MM is was way too thick. Also, the DSSD has an addition of a ring lock that runs around the outside of the dial like a life saver and makes the dial look disproportionately small when compared to the rest of the watch. In addition, Rolex put an Oyster Bracelet on the case that was the same width at the solid end links as the 40MM SEA-DWELLER, which made no sense at all. In other words, it looked like Schwarzenegger back in the day, with skinny little women's legs, or like my pal, Amit said: "The DSSD looks like Mr. Potato Head" :-) 



On the all-new 50th Anniversary Single Red SEA-DWELLER, Rolex proportionately scaled-up the width of the bracelet at the solid end links to make it wider and tapered it less, thus giving the watch a much more streamlined, masculine look. Rolex also widened the hour and minute hand, to give it fatter hands, which makes it look bolder and more macho.

It is also worth noting the all-new 43MM SEA-DWELLER now has ultra-precise newer 3235 Caliber Movement that Rolex recently introduced. The 3235 is so precise, it supposedly keeps time as accurately as a very precise quartz movement. Also, this new model comes standard with Rolex's 5-year warranty!!!





A More Masculine Face

When you first compare the standard 40MM SEA-DWELLER seen below on the right, with the new Single Red 43MM model, it seems the only difference is the red color on the SEA-DWELLER dial designation, but that is not the case (pun not intended ;-). Since the 43MM model is scaled up, it gives it a more macho/masculine vibe, but also notice the minute had is WAY fatter/wider, and shorter on the new 43mm model. Particularly, the Hour hand is much wider as seen below, and the Mercedes Logo on the minute hand is also significantly larger in juxtaposition to the Maxi Markers. This gives the watch a bolder, more aquatic look, which is fantastic!!! 


Also, the new minute hand rectangular loom plot is shorter and now way more geometric, as it is no longer a perfect rectangle, but has rounded sides that follow the geometry of the Mercedes logo circle and the base of the hour hand. Speaking of the base of the hour hand, this has significantly increased as well in diameter to accommodate the much wider minute hand. Also, the Rolex design team decreased the length of the point on the outside edge of the Mercedes logo on the minute hand, while making it wider at its base. This subtle design characteristic change, again, gives it a more refined and polished look. 

Another subtle difference is the typeface for the Red SEA-DWELLER designation has changed. The new red version is finer, and the letters are slightly smaller, with greater letter space kerning. In other words, if you look closely, at the distance between the S and E, in the word SEA, you will notice there is more space between the S and E on the Single Red than on the standard 40mm SEA-DWELLER. This detail gives it a more refined, precise look. Also, on the Single Red model, the |SWISS|MADE| dial designation located at the bottom of the dial now uses the same typeface the SEA-DWELLER designation uses, whereas on the standard 40MM SEA-DWELLER uses a different font.

I have some good news and bad news about this watch. The GREAT NEWS is that this watch is magnificent and shows Rolex moving full-speed ahead in design. The bad news is I'm afraid there are going to be very long iPhone-like lines for this beauty...like the TESLA Model 3, or even worse, the 2005 Rolex Daytona 4 to 5-year wait lists...This Rolex is going to be all the rage, and then some!!!













A New Movement 

One of the most exciting new features incorporated into the all-new Rolex SEA-DWELLER is the addition of the new 3235 Rolex Caliber Movement. The 3235 is a revolutionary movement that keeps amazingly accurate time. So accurate in fact, it keeps time as well as a Quartz movement, yet it is fully mechanical and automatic. This movement comes standard with an International 5-year warranty from Rolex and adheres to the new Rolex standard of -2/+2. The SEA-DWELLER is the first Professional Rolex model to get this upgrade, and if I am reading the writing on the wall, this could likely mean Rolex will be coming out hopefully in the future with other 43MM Professional models. The Caliber 3235 debuted in the all-new 2015 Rolex Day-Date model and made its way into the all-new 2016 Rolex Datejust.


The power reserve on this new self-winding movement is also increased to 70 hours, from the standard 40 hours the current Caliber 3135 40MM SEA-DWELLER and Submariner models have. This represents a 50% longer increase in power reserve!!! Also, this movement is not only built to last but also made to perform more efficiently and reliably with more convenience and less wear. So much so, Rolex increased their recommended service interval from 7 years to every 10 years with this new movement.

















The Complete History Of
The Rolex Submariner & SEA-DWELLER


Rolex's Conquest Of The Ocean

Table Of Contents