Jasper Lijfering made the news four years ago, when he hand-delivered a vintage Rolex Daytona estimated at $750,000 to Ellen DeGeneres, a story published in The New York Times.
Since then, I've followed Jasper, the owner of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, and enjoyed his content, knowledge and tastes — his unpolished opinion. Jasper grew up in the vintage world, and before taking over his parent’s shop in 2014, he studied to become a jeweler-entrepreneur at Schoonhoven College.
Jasper has worked at several jewelry shops in Amsterdam before running his own. I think you will enjoy this recent interview of him where he touts... the Jasper dial.
A larger portion of Rolex models than any other brand trade above retail. That's according to the latest data available by WatchCharts, Morgan Stanley.
While Rolex commands premiums for the largest percentage of models out of all nine brands tracked by WatchCharts, Patek Philippe watches command the largest premium at +39%, compared to +20% for Rolex. The vast majority of pre-owned watches from brands outside of the Big Four are available at a discount.
Still, at 68% of Rolex watches selling above MSRP on the secondary market, Rolex watches continue to be a good deal when bought at authorized dealers — though less and less as the trend has declined for the past three quarters.
...But High Supply Persists
on the Pre-Owned Market
On the flip side, total supply remains near all-time highs even for discontinued Rolex models... Will prices continue to drop?
WatchCharts analyzed 90 Rolex models from three distinct generations, including discontinued models, and the analysis shows that total supply remains at or near all-time highs for all segments. Median age of Rolex inventory increased by 25% in 2023.
Supply evolution for discontinued and in-
production segments of the Rolex market
Total supply levels for discontinued five-digit-reference models has jumped +32% in the last three years (-4% YoY). Total supply levels for discontinued six-digit-reference models has increased by +55% in the last three years (-4% YoY).
“Some dealers may still be holding out on realizing losses on older inventory purchased at higher prices,” WatchCharts cautioned in the report. “Which may put further downward pressure on prices in the future if the urgency to sell increases.”
Pre-owned inventory for current-production models saw the biggest jump over the past three years at +189% (+8% YoY). One thing for sure, the 2024 collection due to be released at Watches & Wonders on April 9 will inject some vitality into the market.
If you missed my story last week about our latest find at Jake's Rolex World: the oldest movie featuring a Rolex Submariner, "Hunter's of the Deep" (1954), here's the link. Shortly after publication, I was contacted by a reader, Philip from Belgium, who sent me stills of a 1958 movie, "The Silent Enemy," that I would like to post below.
"The Silent Enemy" is a World War II movie based on the life of Royal Navy Lieutenant-Commander and frogman Lionel Phillip Crabb. A Submariner can be spotted at 27:20 and 44:44 and 1:38:32, and clearly detailed at 1:41:29.
We are just a little bit over two months away from the new 2024 collection release (69 days! But who's counting?). And while we wait for new Rolex models to be announced, and maybe dream about which one to purchase next, let's take a quick look at Rolex after-sale service and what we can do to maintain the watches we have.
One of the things that attracted me to the brand is the idea that my watches can be maintained in "perpetual excellence," a philosophy instilled by founder Hans Wilsdorf. I plan to keep my Rolex as a family heirloom and wanted to make sure my descendants will be able to enjoy the watch, something that is less of a guarantee with newer watch brands whose future is less certain.
Rolex is well known for its network of service centers around the world. But few know that in 2018 the brand also inaugurated the Rolex Training Center in Geneva where watchmakers are trained to Rolex standards and new technologies, a Rolex University of sorts.
The Rolex program – the official Rolex Watchmaking Training – lasts no fewer than 18 months. Once this is complete the watchmaker is able to carry out full servicing on Oyster movements.
During a service each component is carefully examined to determine whether it still meets Rolex requirements – if this is not the case, it is replaced with a new part from the manufacture in Bienne, where Rolex movements are produced.
Here the watchmaker removes the winding stem to extract the movement from the case.
Rare view inside the new movement 3235.
The watchmaker places the movement's component into a basket for an ultrasonic cleaning.
After movement is reassembled, the time keeping adjustment is made with a micro-stella key.
After remounting the dial, the hands are manually fit in.
A chronometric machine at work. Each watch is tested over a cycle of 24 hours in conditions simulating those of our wrists.
Rolex's Restoration Atelier
The brand said it continues to manufacture parts for at least 35 years following the discontinuation of a reference. At the end of this period, if parts are no longer available, they can be recreated by the Restoration Atelier by master watchmakers in Geneva who are specially trained in collectors’ timepieces. I feel those who work at the Restoration Atelier are kind of the Navy SEALs of Rolex watchmaking.
Restoration requiring high expertise is done at the Atelier. Here a hinge is resoldered on the blade of a clasp.
I asked Rolex for more details about the Restoration Atelier. They kindly responded that a client will be advised at the autorized dealer (or from the Rolex Service Center) if the client's timepiece needs to be referred to a master watchmaker at the Atelier. Usually these are historical and exceptional timepieces whose references have played a part in the brand's history, Rolex told me. Rolex said their master watchmakers can recreate older components using techniques of the period. This is pretty amazing.
Preserving a maximum of the original aesthetics: Here the watchmaker refinishes the chamfering of the train wheel bridge to restore its shine.
Each restoration service is done in keeping with watchmaking traditions and craftsmanship: here the watchmaker checks the chronograph counters of a vintage Daytona.
If you're eager to get a new Rolex but your old one needs a service, give the Rolex Service Center a try. When the watch is returned to you, it will feel like you've received a new watch.
Wristwatch-YouTuber Adrian Barker has been snowboarding in Zermatt, Switzerland, recently. His latest video shows his Explorer II Polar dial on a NATO strap. The NATO straps are sold by his own company, Bark & Jack.
As a Rolex purist, I usually don't much care for Rolex sans Oyster bracelet. But I have to admit, Adrian has done it. This looks real cool!
When Jannik was signed by Rolex, in early 2020, the 18-year-old Italian tennis player had never reached past the second tour of any Grand Slam tournament. But on Sunday, Jannik lifted the trophy with a Rolex Submariner on his wrist -- that's showing Rolex's knack for discovering future talents!
Rolex has released an image of this year’s specially engraved Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona watch, which will be presented to the winners of each class at this weekend’s Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona.
As it is customary for that race, Rolex presents a two-tone — a so-called Yellow Rolesor — model to the winners. The watch is not only accompanied by a very special box but also engraved on the case back with the Rolex 24 Daytona logo and the word "WINNER"
Someone's allocated OP was worn by a queen. Britain's Queen Camilla tried on a 31mm Oyster Perpetual with the beautiful turquoise-blue dial on Monday during her visit to a Rolex authorized dealer in Swindon, England ... the latest sign of the power of that dial color in the Rolex collection.
A crown for a queen (Photo credit: Getty)
We're told she went to the 175-year-old family-run jeweler not to shop for a Rolex but to bring in a vintage Breitling for repairs. Still, Queen Camilla seemed interested in all things watches ... checking out vintage pieces and taking a tour of the sixth-generation workshop, where she spoke to a young female watchmaker.
Also in attendance was Deacon & Son's manager director Richard Deacon and, of course, Richard de Leyser, the CEO of Rolex UK, seen below, who had been briefed of her visit.
(Photo credit: Getty)
(Photo credit: Getty)
Queen Camilla didn’t pull the trigger on the Tiffany-dial OP, we’re told... that could be a future gift idea for King Charles III. After all, Valentine’s Day is right around the corner.
All four of Queen Elizabeth's children have worn Rolex watches, according to our research, as well as some of her grandchildren. King Charles' son, Prince Harry of Wales, below, is seen rocking a Rolex Explorer II "Orange Hand" while serving as a helicopter pilot in Afghanistan.
Prince Harry is pictured below at a Polo match in Sentebale with legendary car racing legend, Sir Jackie Stewart, and Rolex Global Director of Communication and Image Arnaud Boetsch.
Prince Harry, in the photo below, is checking out Arnaud Boetsch's Rolex. Before joining Rolex, Arnaud Boetsch was a top ranked professional tennis player.
Historically Rolex has always been extremely secretive and discreet, and no journalists in the past have ever been invited "INSIDE ROLEX" to explore and report on all four Rolex Manufacturing faclities in Switzerland.
In November 2013, this changed when Rolex invited Jake to take an unprecdented journey into the heart of Rolex to learn and report on everything he witnessed and learned.
This Super-Detailed 3 Part Story is a "MUST READ" story for anybody who wants to understand what really makes Rolex tick.