Very Early Rolex Submariner coming to Auction

Serpico Y Laino

A Very Early
Submariner Surfaces

This remarkable story presents one of the earliest known Rolex Submariner serial numbers, specifically #949,197. The case for this beauty was made in the second quarter of 1953, and appears to have been retailed in South America by Serpico Y Laino, which not only has their logo on the dial, but also features the ultra-rare split SUBMARINER | PERPETUAL dial logo designation, and it's up for auction at Christie's Auction house.

The first Submariner dial was distinctive, a quiet testament to Rolex’s pioneering spirit. Initially christened the “SUBMARINER PERPETUAL,” it bore “SUBMARINER” on the upper left beneath “ROLEX,” with “PERPETUAL” poised on the right, almost in a wing-like pattern, which ended up being a fleeting arrangement reserved for the earliest models. 

After I first published this story you are reading, I went digging through my archives looking for a Submariner that was even older than the Serpico Y Laino and came up with this Submariner Reference 6204, also from Q2 of 1953 that features an earlier serial number of 949.143, which is 54 digits earlier, and incorporates an unusually cool and interesting honeycomb dial. This watch appears courtesy top vintage Rolex dealer and expert, Eric Ku.

One of the earliest articles I wrote here on RolexMagazine.com on Early Rolex Submariner models was 15 years ago, back in 2011, and it was named "Early Rolex Submariner Model History: Separating The Fact From The Fiction." 

Just for frame of reference, the photo below shows the next Rolex Submariner Reference 6204 that came after the Reference 6204 pictured above, and as we see, it says "OYSTER PERPETUAL" under the Coronet/Crown Logo and "ROLEX" dial designation, and then we see the "SUBMARINER" dial designation centered on the lower part of the dial, directly above the 6 O'clock marker. This early model still lacked the now iconic Mercedes Logo hour hand, and featured the mini lollipop second sweep hand.

Since we are on the subject of timeless Rolex Submariner evolution design language, let's take a look at the current 41MM Rolex Submariner Reference 124060, which is the great, great grandson of the original Reference 6204, and they were born 73 years apart, yet they looks highly related. The current model features a depth rating below the "SUBMARINER" dial designation and it features the "Mercedes" logo hour hand.

For further frame-of-reference I put together the image below which shows the first Rolex Submariner 37MM Reference 6204 from 1953 next to the current 2026 Submariner which carries a Reference of 124060 and has grown 4MM to 41MM over the past three quarters of a century.

There are a number of additional details on the current Rolex Submariner, like the "ROLEX, ROLEX, ROLEX, ROLEX" etching running around the rehaut, not to mention the 5 minute marker indices are not applied on white told surrounds, as apposed to printed using a galvanic gilt process on the original. The original Submariner bezel featured an aluminum bezel insert, which was prone to scratching, whereas the current Rolex Submariner features a ceramic bezel insert which is much sturdier. Also, the original Submariner came on a riveted bracelet, and the current model is on a solid bracelet with solid end links, coupled with a flip-lock.

Let's get back to examining the Serpico Y Laino Submariner featured at the beginning of this story. The photo below shows the inside engraving on the caseback and we see not only the Reference 6204 number, but also the "2.53" manufacturing date stamp. The first thing I thought of when I saw this watch was the fact that when it was sold in Caracas, Venezuela, is how at the time, André-Jean Heiniger was the head of sales in South America. Serpico Y Laino was a retailer in Caracas with a fascinating history.

The Lot Essay from Christie's Auction House reads:

    "Amongst the rarest and most historically important early Rolex sports watches, this Submariner reference 6204 represents the very beginning of the Submariner lineage, when Rolex was experimenting with their diving watches. Produced in 1953 and retailed by the famed Venezuelan jeweler Serpico y Laino, the present watch features the coveted and exceptionally rare “Split Logo” text, in which the 'Submariner' and 'Perpetual' text is divided on each side of the center pinion.

    The watch further distinguishes itself with its gilt dial, “pencil” and "lollipop" hands, both being hallmarks of the earliest Submariners. Unlike later printed matte dials, gilt dials were produced through a galvanic process that left the text and minute track shimmering warmly, creating remarkable depth and richness. The elegant pencil hands, used before Rolex adopted the Mercedes handset, underscore the experimental and highly collectible nature of these first generation diving watches.

    Furthermore, the dial is signed Serpico y Laino at the lower half and is furthered with 'S&L ACERO' to the caseback. The present reference 6204 stands among the most desirable, rare, and historically significant early Rolex Submariners to survive today."

Lord Mountbatten & Dimitry Rebikoff

As mentioned earlier, this exceptionally rare Submariner boasts the second earliest known serial number. The earliest one belongs to the Submariner owned by Lord Admiral Mountbatten, who is pictured below (in the middle) in 1952 with Pierre Vanlaer (on the left) and Dimitri Rebikoff (on the right), the man who assisted Rolex in designing the Rolex Submariner. 

Mountbatten and Rebikoff were also close to Henri Broussard, the head of the Club Alpin Sous Marin diving club in Cannes, France. Broussard founded the club in 1946, and it was there that many early Rolex Submariner tests took place. Admiral Mountbatten, at the time, was the Commander-in-Chief of the Allied Forces in the Mediterranean and was also an accomplished scuba diver.

Lord Mountbatten was featured in the 1957 Rolex Magazine ad campaign titled "Men who guide the destinies of the world wear Rolex watches."

Lord Mountbatten is pictured below in the Oval Office in Washington, D.C., with President Kennedy and the Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff of the American military, Lyman Lemnitzer.

In the subsequent image, we observe Lord Mountbatten accompanied by his nephew, Prince Charles, who has since ascended to the throne as King Charles.

Lord Mountbatten is pictured below with his family on vacation in Scotland, and he is rocking his Submariner.

Dimitri Rebikoff is featured on the cover of one of my upcoming books on the history of the Rolex Submariner and in the photo below we see him rocking his prototype Submariner which he co-developed with Rolex back in the early 1950s.

Below is a letter written by Rolex Marketing Director René-Paul Jeanneret to Admiral Mountbatten, which highlights Dimitri Rebikoff’s pivotal role in the development of the Rolex Submariner. As evident from the letter, Rolex provided Lord Mountbatten with an early Submariner for testing purposes. This explains why it possesses the earliest known serial number of 949,120, which is 77 digits earlier than the one being offered at auction at the beginning of this article.

Regrettably, the current whereabouts of Lord Mountbatten’s Submariner remain unknown to this day. Consequently, the Serpico Y Laino Submariner model featured at the beginning of this story, with a serial number of 949,197, is recognized as one of the earliest known Submariner models, as there are still known models that featured serial numbers in the range of 949,14X.

Below we see a very rare original copy of the Dimitry Rebikoff's Rolex Submariner Trial Report Renè-Paul Jeanneret included with his letter to Lord Mountbatten:

The copy of the Submariner Trial Report was published in the Club Alpin Sous-Marin Number 8 in 1956, and is from the personal collection of Frédéric Dumas, who was the dive leader aboard the RV Calypso and co-authored the book with Jacques-Yves Cousteau, The Silent World in 1953.

The Things That Dreams Are Made Of

In Jules Verne’s epic masterpiece, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, published in 1870, he prophetically unveiled humanity’s profound yearning to conquer the ocean’s mysterious abyss. The Rolex Submariner, born of that same indomitable spirit of exploration, transformed Verne’s visionary science fiction into enduring reality close to a century later—a timeless sentinel of the depths, where human ingenuity defies the deep sea, while touching the eternal unknown. Daring adventurers like Dimitri Rebikoff and Jacques-Yves Cousteau (pictured below wearing his Rolex Submariner tool watch) embodied that same spirit, turning Verne’s vision into reality.

Captain Nemo tells the three men when they board his Nautilus Submarine:

    "You will not regret the time spent on board my vessel. You are going to travel through a wonderland. Astonishment and stupefaction will be your normal state of mind... I am going to embark on a new underwater tour of the world... and you will be my study companion.”

— Jules Verne (1870)

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea 

Men Who Guide The Destinies Of The World Wear Rolex Watches...

Breaking Rolex Marketing Code

Men Who Guide The Destinies Of The World Wear Rolex Watches

1957 Was A Very Good Year For Rolex

1957 was a very good year for Rolex. Hans Wildorf, the man who founded Rolex in London, England in 1908 had realized his dream and in three short years (in 1960) he would exit the stage of life.

In 1957 Dwight Eisenhower was the President Of The United States and as the leader of the free world, he wore a yellow-gold Rolex Datejust on his wrist. President Eisenhower was not on the president of the United States, but for many, many people in Europe he was their savior since he brought over over the largest armada ever assembled in world-history and free all of Europe from Nazi aggression.

Prior to World War II, Rolex had prospered and grown with amazing innovation and had built up a world-wide distribution system second to none. Hitler and his Nazi regime brought Rolex to almost a complete stand-still.

The following three Rolex ads were all published in 1957 in the United States:

Rolex promised President Eisenhower they would not use the fact that he wore a Rolex for marketing purposes and they more-or-less kept their promise, but they definitely used his likeness subliminally.

For instance look at the bald man in the ad above who's face is masked behind the ribbon that reads "Men Who Guide The Destinies Of The World Wear Rolex Watches." Notice the plaque in-front of the faceless man reads "ETATS–UNIS" which is French for "United States."

I don't know exactly what Rolex was thinking in 1957 when they ran these ads. I think it is safe to assume that on the one hand they were extremely excited to have President Eisenhower wearing and relying on his beloved Rolex Datejust, and on the other hand they were probably a little frustrated because they probably wanted to point out this fact to everybody, but really couldn't. So they kind of did it subliminally–at least that is my best guess.

Lord Mountbatten Ad

Next we have the following Rolex ad from 1957 which is clearly referring to Lord Mountbatten who is pictured in the photo below the Rolex ad.

The photo of Lord Louis Mountbatten below was taken during World War II, and he is wearing his trademark Rolex Oyster Perpetual on a leather strap. Lord Mountbatten is Prince Philip's uncle. Prince Philip is married to Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain.

Christie's (London) auctioned Lord Mountbatten's Rolex in 2006 as seen below. It was an Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback [Reference 2940] that was made in 1940. Its matt silvered dial was singed Rolex Oyster Perpertual, Officially Certified Chronometer. The Rolex was a gift from his wife and on the back the engraving reads: "Dickie from Edwina, 18th July 1943 XXI." The clasp is inscribed Mountbatten of Burma.

The Christie's Lot notes read:

Formerly the property of Earl Mountbatten of Burma (1900-1979), K.G., G.C.B, G.C.S.I., G.C.L.E, G.C.V.O., First Sealord of the Fleet and last Viceroy of India. A Gift from Countess Mountbatten to her husband on their 21st wedding anniversary.

Louis Mountbatten was born Louis of Battenberg at Windsor Castle on 25th June 1900. His mother was Princess Victoria of Hesse, granddaughter of Queen Victoria and his father was Prince Louis of Battenberg. During World War I, together with the rest of the Royal Family, it was decided that it would be wise if German family names were changed.

In line with this, the house of Battenberg became Mountbatten in 1917. In 1922 Louis Mountbatten married The Hon. Edwina Ashley. Earl Mountbatten had a long and very distinguished Naval career, by 1932 he was promoted to Commander and in 1937 to Captain. During World War II he was in command of H.M.S. Kelly and the Fifth Destroyer Flotilla and then H.M.S. Illustrious in 1941.

In 1943 he was appointed Supreme Allied Commander of South-East Asia with rank of acting Admiral until 1946. Between 1946 and 1956 he was promoted to Rear-Admiral, Vice Admiral, Fourth Sea Lord, First Sea Lord and Admiral of the Fleet. In 1947 he had been created 1st Earl Mountbatten of Burma and in the same year was appointed Viceroy of India.

He was the last person to hold the position of Viceroy and concluded negotiations for the independence of India and Pakistan from the Empire. From 1959-65 as Chief of the Defence Staff and Chairman of the Chiefs of Staff Committee he worked to integrate various branches of the armed forces.

Earl Mountbatten was the uncle of HRH Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh and was always known by the family as uncle Dickie. He was very close to HRH The Prince of Wales and in fact it is said that Prince Charles referred to him as his "honourary grandfather". It was whilst fishing in a small boat in Donegal Bay, Ireland on 27th August 1979 that Earl Mountbatten was murdered by the IRA.

NBC Founder David Sarnoff

I am not 100% certain, but in this next ad I believe it is referring to David Sarnoff, the founder of NBC who was a maverick in Television Programming.

These last two ads are from 1964