But a striking new discovery by historian Nick Gould has unveiled a second Rolex in the emperor’s collection—a Rolex Submariner—captured in a photograph from either 1953 or 1955 in Cannes, France. This image, taken during Bao Dai’s exile, reveals a lesser-known side of the emperor and adds a fresh chapter to the legacy of both the man and the brand. The photo is dated from 1953 and was taken by Edward Quinn.
The Discovery: A Submariner in Exile
Nick Gould’s find—a photograph of Bao Dai wearing a Rolex Submariner—offers a rare glimpse into the emperor’s life on the French Riviera. Dated to either 1953 or 1955, the image shows Bao Dai in a casual setting, the Submariner worn on his left his wrist on an Oyster Bracelet, accompanied by a video from the same period, this evidence places the emperor in Cannes, far from the imperial splendor of his past. Yet, a debate lingers: the photographer’s website hints at 1953, aligning with the Submariner’s debut year. Whether 1953 or 1955, the discovery cements Bao Dai’s connection to another Rolex icon.
Bao Dai: From Throne to Riviera
Born in 1913, Bao Dai ascended to Vietnam’s throne at age 12, ruling under French colonial oversight until his deposition in 1945. By the 1950s, he was in exile in France, trading palaces for a life of leisure along the Côte d’Azur.
Known for his love of luxury—yachts, cars, and fine timepieces—Bao Dai’s taste is epitomized by the Reference 6062, a moonphase marvel with diamond markers that fetched $5.1 million at auction in 2017.
Yet the Submariner tells a different story: a shift toward practicality, a watch suited to a man adapting to a new reality. Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was a game-changer—a dive watch built for utility with its water-resistant case and luminous dial. By 1955, it was gaining momentum as a symbol of rugged elegance.
Bao Dai’s Submariner, though its exact reference (perhaps a 6204 or 6205) remains unclear due to the photo’s limitations, underscores the watch’s early appeal. From its launch, the Submariner transcended its tool-watch origins, catching the eye of an emperor in exile.
Two Watches, Two Worlds
The contrast between Bao Dai’s Rolexes is striking. The Reference 6062, with its black dial and opulent design, reflects his imperial past—a relic of extravagance. The Submariner, rugged and restrained, mirrors his life in Cannes: a blend of sophistication and simplicity. Together, they showcase Bao Dai’s nuanced relationship with Rolex, spanning the spectrum from lavish to utilitarian.
A Legacy Enhanced
This discovery elevates the Submariner’s origin story, linking it to a figure of historical heft. Whether the photo dates to 1953, making Bao Dai an early adopter, or 1955, as the video suggests, it captures a moment of transition—for the emperor and the watch. For Rolex aficionados, this is a revelation, proving that even in exile, Bao Dai’s wrist remained a showcase for the brand’s finest creations.
A Timeless Tale
The Submariner on Bao Dai’s wrist is more than a footnote—it’s a testament to Rolex’s enduring allure. From the depths of the sea to the shores of Cannes, its journey began with pioneers like Bao Dai, whose discerning eye helped shape its legend. As horological history unfolds, discoveries like this remind us: the past always has more to reveal.
Update: Nick Gould emailed the archive and they said according to their records the photo was taking in 1953, which certainly makes things more interesting...
Imagine the moment: a velvet-lined box opens to reveal a Rolex Day-Date 36, its diamond-set green dial catching the light with a brilliance that stops time itself. Since its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has been more than a watch—it’s been a symbol of achievement, a companion to some of history’s most influential figures, and a canvas for Rolex’s relentless pursuit of perfection.
Known affectionately as the "President" watch, this iconic timepiece has now been reimagined in stunning yellow gold with a green dial that radiates both boldness and serenity. This is not just a watch—it’s a statement of artistry, innovation, and timeless elegance.
A Dial That Captivates
Green as a Statement of Bold Elegance
The star of this Day-Date 36 is its mesmerizing green dial, a hue that feels both timeless and strikingly contemporary. Picture the depth of an emerald forest or the polished surface of a rare jade stone—this green doesn’t merely sit on the dial; it draws you in, shifting subtly with the light to reveal its complexity. Adorning this vibrant backdrop are diamond hour markers, each one a tiny prism of perfection. Hand-set by Rolex’s master gemologists, these diamonds sparkle with a fire that elevates the watch from beautiful to breathtaking, creating a dance of light with every twist and turn of the wrist.
At 12 o’clock, the day window proudly spells out the day of the week in full—a signature feature that nods to the Day-Date’s global legacy, available in languages from English to Arabic. At 3 o’clock, the magnified date window, framed by the Cyclops lens, ensures clarity and practicality. Together, these elements blend form and function in a way that only Rolex can achieve, making this watch as useful as it is alluring.
Craftsmanship Beyond Compare
The Art of Diamond Setting
Rolex’s mastery of gem-setting transforms this Day-Date into a wearable jewel. The diamonds aren’t just embellishments—they’re a testament to a craft honed over decades. Each stone is chosen for its exceptional clarity and cut, then meticulously placed by artisans whose precision rivals that of the watchmakers themselves. The result? A dial that doesn’t just tell time—it tells a story of dedication and excellence, where every facet reflects Rolex’s uncompromising standards.
Encasing this masterpiece is a 36mm yellow gold case, its warm tones amplifying the dial’s vibrancy. The fluted bezel, a hallmark of the Day-Date line, catches the light with its sculpted edges, adding texture and tradition to the design. Paired with the President bracelet—its semi-circular links as comfortable as they are iconic—this watch drapes the wrist with a luxurious embrace, a reminder of Rolex’s ability to marry beauty with wearability.
A Legacy of Innovation
The Heart of the Day-Date
Beneath its elegant exterior beats the Caliber 3255, a movement that embodies Rolex’s engineering genius. Developed entirely in-house, this self-winding marvel holds 14 patents and delivers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours—enough to keep ticking through a long weekend undisturbed. Its precision, rated at -2/+2 seconds per day, exceeds the strictest chronometer standards, thanks to innovations like the blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers. Whether you’re navigating a bustling day or savoring a quiet evening, this movement ensures the Day-Date 36 performs with unflagging reliability.
The Day-Date’s story began in 1956, when Rolex unveiled the first watch to display both the day and date in full—a breakthrough that cemented its status as a pioneer. Worn by presidents, CEOs, and visionaries, it quickly became a symbol of power and prestige. Today’s green-dialed iteration builds on that legacy, proving that innovation can honor tradition while pushing boundaries.
A Timeless Icon Reimagined
The Rolex Day-Date 36 with its diamond-set green dial is a triumph of design and craftsmanship.
It’s a watch that bridges past and present, blending the heritage of the "President" with a modern palette that feels fresh yet eternal. For collectors, it’s a treasure; for wearers, it’s a companion that marks life’s greatest moments. As Rolex continues to redefine luxury, this timepiece stands as a testament to the brand’s artistry—a fusion of precision, passion, and the pursuit of the extraordinary.
Harmony of the elements. With a bezel set with 60 trapeze-cut diamonds and a vibrant green dial with 10 baguette-cut diamond hour markers, this Day-Date 36 in 18ct yellow gold exemplifies Rolex’s gem-setting expertise and exceptional design. Gold, green, and sparkle. The ultimate Rolex prestige. Rolex's MSRP on this Reference 128398TBR is $85,200.
Historically Rolex has always been extremely secretive and discreet, and no journalists in the past have ever been invited "INSIDE ROLEX" to explore and report on all four Rolex Manufacturing faclities in Switzerland.
In November 2013, this changed when Rolex invited Jake to take an unprecdented journey into the heart of Rolex to learn and report on everything he witnessed and learned.
This Super-Detailed 3 Part Story is a "MUST READ" story for anybody who wants to understand what really makes Rolex tick.