Wednesday, March 30, 2022

Watches & Wonders 2022: Comments on Rolex Releases

Because I Was Inverted

My Thoughts on the

 New GMT-Master, Air-King 

and Killing the Turquoise OP


Again this year, Rolex showed the world it can release models completely (wait for it) out of the left field, but can also continue to perfect the current collection. Behind the idea of a new Air-King, for example, was the need to strengthen the model's position as a professional piece, Rolex told me. So everything about it had to be made better while keeping the dial (almost) untouched.

Rolex since 2015 has continued to refine the lines of their cases using not just thinner lugs but a play on polish and light reflection, making the watch look slimmer. The Air-King received the same treatment this year. One of the design signatures of a Rolex professional piece is a case with straight flanks — which can be observed here as well. The new Air-King is better lumed and sits on your wrist more securely thanks to the Oysterlock. The faraday cage was removed since the new movement itself is anti-magnetic making the Air-King lighter and thinner. The "0" added next to the "5" isn't just about dial balance. The dial looks more like a cockpit instrument with the two digits together. Welcome to the big leagues, Air-King, you've just made pro.


The GMT-Master II with the crown and date on the "wrong" side was a head scratcher. Most people think Rolex made a watch for left handed. But Rolex is not marketing the GMT-Master as such. As a matter of fact, none of the material about the new GMT mentions the brand built a watch for left handed. Officially, the black and green GMT is a watch with the crown on the left, that's all. Rolex didn't want to corner or label the new GMT as the watch for gauchers only. Rather, it made a watch for all who want to wear watches differently. Wearing a green and black Rolex that is inverted is the last bastion of male peacockery, Jake wrote.  

The green and black bezel will forever be reserved for the GMT "with the crown on the left," Rolex told me. No other GMT will have a black and green bezel. And conversely, the Batman and Pepsi colors will never be placed on a left-hand-drive GMT. Gotta be able to tell those peacocks apart.

Historically, I can't emphasize enough how this watch is a first for the brand: While Rolex has occasionally — and secretly — dabbled with making watches with crowns on the left, it has never done so with also the date on the same side. 

It is the first time Rolex is actively and publicly marketing such a watch, which should be admired for the engineering alone. Rolex not only had to reverse the typography of the date disc. But it also had to retool any kind of equipment that regulates time keeping for a reversed movement — and especially when the watch is simulated on the other wrist to earn its superlative rating. Maybe this watch is a flex after all: It's Rolex saying, "We know how to mass-produce the best quality watches in the world, and we can do it in reverse as well."

If you're a business man, you don't stop selling one of your most desirable products. That's why the reason for discontinuing the turquoise OP in 41mm goes beyond streamlining a collection and a production that's running full capacity. On the secondary market, the watch had reached more than five times its retail value, something no other current-production reference had achieved. 

No, in my opinion, discontinuing the OP 41 in turquoise was a flex — and a message to Patek's Thierry Stern who had stopped selling the uber-popular 5711. It's putting Rolex on Patek's level. Maybe it's a thing watch CEOs do to one another today: Watch me kill a cash cow because I'm that good. I say let them do it. After all, it's their version of male peacockery.

Rolex Discontinues 41MM Tiffany Blue Dial OP


Breaking News!!!

Rolex Discontinues

 41MM Tiffany 

Blue Dial OP!?!!

I have something very interesting to share with you: There is MUCH, MUCH, MUCH more to Rolex Introductions at Watches AND Wonders than meets the eye. Basically, is like an Easter Egg hunt in the sense it's sugar-coated with many subtle hidden changes, one of which is the fact Rolex discontinued the ultra-successful 41MM Tiffany Blue dial OP. Why? Because Rolex!!! And of course, the Supreme irony is Rolex only introduced this color way back in 2020!?!!

What will this mean for the resale prices of this super-hot iconic Rolex now that it has been discontinued? I am not certain, but I could see already ultra-high prices doubling overnight...If you are curious for all the crazy hidden low-key changes to the Rolex 2022 catalog we will be covering it over the course of the next several days...Why? Instead of covering everything in the first few hours, we want to download more before we process and share our insight...

Watches And Wonders Platinum Flute Bezel on Day-Date


Watches And Wonders 

Platinum Flute Bezel

on Day-Date

Rolex really surprised me with the introduction of the platinum Day-Date with a fluted Platinum bezel. The Rolex Day-Date is commonly referred to as The Rolex President. This came as a big surprise because in the past Rolex ONLY ever made the platinum with a flat/plain bezel. My understanding is that in the past Rolex was not able to figure out how to shape Platinum with the fluting, but finally had a breakthrough. Just for clarity sake, Rolex historically made white gold Day-Date models with a fluted bezel, which is how in the past you could differentiate the difference between a Platinum and White Gold Day-Date. 

This makes me wonder if Rolex will discontinue the white gold Day-Date in the future? I have to say the new Platinum Day-Date with the fluted bezel and ice blue dial with raised platinum san serif Roman numerals takes my breath way!!!! This is a Super Tight looking Rolex!!!! 

It's funny how when I see some new Rolex novelty watches songs start playing in my head, and this one elicits the song Tighten Up, by Archie Bell & The Drells!!!!