1978 Dan McCullin Rolex Explorer II Orange Hand

1978 Rolex Magazine Ad

Dan McCullin's Silent Partner in Chaos

Rolex Explorer II Orange Hand 

Reference 1655

    "Photography for me is not looking, it's feeling. If you can't feel what you're looking at, then you're never going to get others to feel anything when they look at your pictures"

—Don McCullin

In the pantheon of vintage Rolex, few watches stir the soul like the Explorer II [Reference 1655]. It’s a rugged beast, born for the wild, with a design that screams purpose over polish. But what elevates this watch from mere tool to myth? Look no further than Don McCullin, the war photographer who strapped it to his wrist and plunged into the heart of history. In 1978, Rolex ran an ad featuring McCullin, his steely gaze fixed on the horizon, that orange-handed 1655 ticking away as bullets flew. That image alone cemented its legacy—and today, it’s a holy grail for collectors who chase the stories behind the steel.

Let’s unpack this. Who was Don McCullin, and why does his Explorer II still have us obsessed decades later? Grab a coffee, because this is a tale of courage, conflict, and a watch that refused to quit.

Don McCullin
The Eye of the Storm
Don McCullin didn’t stumble into greatness—he clawed his way there. Born in 1935 in London’s rough-and-tumble Finsbury Park, he grew up in a world of post-war grit. Life was no picnic, but McCullin had an eye for more than just survival. Photography found him almost by accident—snapping shots of his local gang for a laugh—until The Observer took notice in 1959. That was the spark that lit the fuse. Before long, he was on a plane to Berlin, capturing the Wall’s rise, and then to Cyprus, documenting civil unrest. The kid from the streets had become a lens on the world.
    "I wanted my images to contaminate your thoughts—because they contaminated mine"
—Don McCullin

But McCullin’s real legacy was forged in war. Vietnam, Cambodia, Biafra, Beirut—he didn’t just cover conflict; he lived it. His camera caught the raw, unfiltered truth: soldiers in the mud, civilians in despair, the haunting stillness after the gunfire stopped. This wasn’t about pretty pictures; it was about bearing witness. “I’ve been in some tight spots,” he said in that 1978 Rolex ad, “but my Rolex has always come through.” And come through it did—through jungles, deserts, and urban battlegrounds, the Explorer II was his constant.
McCullin’s work earned him a shelf full of awards—World Press Photo honors, a CBE, even a knighthood in 2017. But he’d tell you the accolades don’t matter. What matters is the truth he captured, frame by frame. And on his wrist, that Reference 1655 was more than a watch—it was a companion that saw it all.
The Explorer II [Reference 1655]
A Tool for the Fearless
Now, let’s talk about the watch itself. Rolex dropped the Explorer II in 1971, and it was a different breed from the get-go. Built for adventurers—cavers, polar explorers, and yes, photographers like McCullin—it was all about surviving the extremes. The Reference 1655, with its 39mm Oyster case and that unmistakable orange 24-hour hand, was designed to tackle the unknown. That hand wasn’t just a pop of color; it was a lifeline, letting wearers track day and night in places where the sun played tricks—like the Arctic or deep underground.
The fixed steel bezel, engraved with 24-hour markers, paired with the automatic Caliber 1575 movement to make this thing a tank. Dust, water, shocks? The Explorer II laughed it off. At a time when most watches were still primping for the boardroom, this one was ready for the battlefield. And for McCullin, who often found himself ducking shrapnel, that durability was everything.
But it’s not just the toughness that makes the 1655 special—it’s the vibe. The matte black dial, the Mercedes hands, the no-nonsense steel case—it’s got a quiet swagger that doesn’t need to shout. Nicknamed the “Freccione” (Italian for “big arrow”) for that bold orange hand, it’s a watch that stands out by not trying too hard. And while some call it the “Steve McQueen” (even though he never wore one), it’s McCullin’s story that gives it real weight.
A Collector’s Grail
Why the 1655 Rules Today
Fast forward to 2023, and the Explorer II [Reference 1655] is a vintage Rolex unicorn. Why? Start with the numbers: Rolex only made about 10,000 of these from ’71 to ’85. Finding one that’s not beaten to hell—or worse, “restored” into oblivion—is a treasure hunt. But rarity’s just the half of it. This watch has soul.
Collectors lose their minds over the 1655 because it’s a time capsule. It’s not some polished-up dress watch—it’s a tool that lived hard. When you hold one, you’re holding history: the expeditions, the battles, the moments of quiet defiance. McCullin’s connection only amps that up. Knowing his Explorer II was there, strapped on as he framed shots that changed how we see war, adds a layer of provenance that’s pure catnip for watch nerds.
Then there’s the design. That orange hand pops like a flare against the black dial, and the steel bezel’s got a rugged charm that’s aged like fine whiskey. It’s not perfect—it’s better than perfect. It’s real. And in a world where vintage Rolex prices are soaring, the 1655’s mix of scarcity, style, and story has made it a heavyweight. Today, a clean example can easily fetch five figures, and if it’s got a documented past? Name your price.
McCullin and the 1655
A Bond Beyond Time
So why did McCullin pick the Explorer II? Because it didn’t flinch. In the chaos of war, you don’t need a watch that’s going to choke under pressure—you need one that’s as tough as you are. The 1655 was that watch. It didn’t care about mud or blood or heat; it just kept going. In that 1978 ad, McCullin’s words say it all: “My Rolex has always come through.” That’s not a sales pitch—that’s a battlefield truth.
For McCullin, the Explorer II wasn’t a status symbol; it was a tool, a witness to the madness he captured through his lens. And that’s what makes it resonate today. Collectors don’t just want the watch—they want the story, the grit, the legacy of a man who stared down history and clicked the shutter anyway.
A Watch That Tells More Than Time
The Rolex Explorer II [Reference 1655] isn’t just a vintage classic—it’s a monument to the fearless. Through Don McCullin’s lens, we see how it earned its stripes, ticking through the darkest corners of the 20th century. For collectors, it’s a prize worth chasing: rare, beautiful, and dripping with history. But beyond the auctions and the hype, it’s a reminder of what a watch can be—a silent partner in the pursuit of something bigger.
So here’s to McCullin, the man who showed us war’s true face, and to the Explorer II that stood by him. In a world obsessed with flash, this watch keeps it real: a rugged, orange-handed testament to adventure, survival, and the stories that time can’t erase.