Monday, November 11, 2019

A White Gold Pepsi GMT-MASTER

...Rolex Wrist Shot Of The Day...

A White Gold Pepsi GMT-MASTER

Sunday, November 10, 2019

What is Rolex Syloxi? An In-Depth Look At Rolex's Latest Innovation by Kyle Stults...

A note from Jake: Kyle Stults is the Founding Editor and publisher of @Perpetuelle which is a superb horological resource. Kyle published a Rolex story on Rolex's innovation with Syloxi back in 2014, which blew my mind with how well written and researched it was, so I asked his permission to republish it on Jake's Rolex World, and he graciously agreed. The following article is extremely detailed, and I love how Kyle was able to take a typically complex story, and make it really easy to understand. 

What Is Rolex Syloxi?

An In-Depth Look At Rolex's Latest Innovation

by Kyle Stults

Rolex Syloxi Hairspring pictured above

“Syloxi” is a Rolex trademark, derived from the materials from which it is made — silicon and silicon oxide composite.  In this article, I will explore Syloxi in the context of the first component Rolex has elected to make with it — the hairspring.  After many years under development, the Rolex Syloxi hairspring was introduced in March 2014 as “the optimal silicon hairspring”, according to Rolex.   Rolex is of course not the first to introduce a silicon hairspring.  The technology is available to certain Swiss manufacturers/groups:  Ulysse Nardin (the first to introduce a silicon hairspring), Patek Philippe, the Swatch Group (Breguet, Omega et al.), though it remains still somewhat of a niche technology.

Though not the first, Rolex brings its first silicon (or ‘silicium’ as it is also called) component to market with its own set of innovations, with full in-house production capability, and in the peculiar manner (as is oft the external perception, at least) that Rolex often takes to introducing new products.  Yes, chances are you have not even have heard of Syloxi until now.  The Syloxi hairspring debuted at Baselworld 2014 — as part of the new Rolex Caliber 2236, a new generation of movement’s for women’s watches.  That’s right — Rolex quietly introduced one of its most important technical innovations in years as part of a woman’s watch. Not that there’s anything wrong with that!  And after all, what’s Rolex to do with all those Parachrom hairpsrings which currently reside in Rolex men’s watches?

Follow along as I explore in-depth the new Rolex Syloxi hairspring technology.

The Case for Silicon

In a mechanical watch, the oscillator is the guardian of time.  Comprising a hairspring and a balance wheel, this regulating organ determines the precision of the watch by the regularity of its oscillations.  Ensuring the oscillator’s regularity is one of watchmaking’s great challenges. It can only be achieved by minimizing the effects of environmental disturbances that affect the oscillator’s performance, notably temperature variations (which cause materials to expand or contract), magnetic interference, gravity and other external shocks.

Silicon, used selectively in watch components for about a decade now, has proven an ideal solution for overcoming many of the deficits of traditional hairsprings.  In particular, the performance properties of silicon are further enhanced when covered by an oxide layer, thereby largely mitigating silicon’s tendency to be affected by changes in temperature.  Thus oxide coated silicon, being thermo-compensating as well, makes for an ideal material to confront the challenges faced by the humble hairspring.

Sharing in the general performance attributes of silicon, Rolex’s new Syloxi hairspring counters the shortcomings of traditional ferromagnetic hairsprings and significantly improves the regularity of the oscillator and the precision of the watch.  It is insensitive to magnetic fields, while offering great stability when exposed to temperature variations. While intuitively more accurate than a traditional hairspring, Rolex naturally touts the Rolex Syloxi as particularly innovative among the realm of existing silicon technology.  Attributes it has achieved by using new patented solutions, including optimized geometry of the hairspring and an efficient design of its fixation systems.

Syloxi Patented Innovations

The Syloxi hairspring’s performance is based on five patents. The first concerns the material of which it is made, a silicon and silicon oxide composite (as noted, mashup “sil” and “ox” and you get ‘Syloxi’), whose thermo-compensating and non-magnetic properties allow the Syloxi hairspring to maintain its high precision when subjected to temperature fluctuations and magnetic fields.

Rolex has also developed a patented geometry that optimizes the isochronism of the hairspring as well as its chronometric regularity. The variable pitch and thickness of the coils, optimized along the whole length of the hairspring, ensures constant development in all positions, compensating for the effects of gravity.   In the close-up image below, one can observe how the coils not only increase in thickness as they progress further from the center pivot, but are increasingly spaced farther apart.
A closer look at the (patented) geometry of the Syloxi Hairspring

Rolex also refined and patented the manner of fixing the ends of the hairspring to the balance staff and the balance bridge, thereby enhancing its flatness and concentricity.  A flexible central part allows it to be attached to the balance staff without the need for glue. The hairspring remains perfectly perpendicular, flat and is self-centering.

The Syloxi hairspring terminates in a more rigid, reinforced crescent-shaped part that allows a two-point fixation to the traversing balance bridge.  These fixation points are located at opposite sides of the balance staff ensuring that the hairspring is perfectly centered, perfectly flat and free of any residual mechanical stress in its active zone.  This type of fixation also allowed Rolex to optimize the beat adjustment using the Paraflex shock absorber that features a fluting for this purpose, and which is also the signature of calibres equipped with the Syloxi hairspring.

A Rolex Paraflex Shock Absorber

Manufacturing of Syloxi

The Syloxi hairspring is manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex via a high-precision manufacturing process known as deep reactive ion etching (DRIE).  This is a well-understood and commonly used technique as it pertains to the manufacture of silicon components.

The First Rolex Caliber with Syloxi 
Rolex Reference 2236

As noted, the Syloxi hairspring was introduced in 2014 in calibre 2236, the first of a new generation of movements for Rolex women’s watches.

Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster
The first Rolex watches with Syloxi hairspring

As part of the new Caliber 2236, the Syloxi hairpsring sits alongside the brand’s range of high-performance hairsprings, namely the Parachrom hairspring that equips men’s models.

As of today, all Rolex men’s models are equipped with the blue paramagnetic “Parachrom” hairspring which was developed and patented by Rolex in 2000 and first launched in the 4130 movement in the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.  Parachrom is made in an exclusive alloy of niobium, zirconium and oxygen.  In 2005, Rolex introduced a new patented process to modify the surface of the Parachrom hairspring and thereby further reinforce its longterm stability.  It is this same treatment that produces its characteristic blue color.  Even at a glance, however, one can see the vast differences between Parachrom and Syloxi.

Pictured above is the Rolex Parachrom Hairspring, and pictured below is the Syloxi Hairspring.

The Future of Rolex Syloxi

So without much pomp and circumstance behind it at the moment, where does this leave Syloxi today?  Rolex’s decision to introduce the Syloxi hairspring in a very low-key manner, and in a woman’s watch — appears to be a matter of tactics.  It is a cautious approach for a cautious brand.  Which is understandable for the world’s most valuable watch brand — nee, one of the world’s most valuable brands period.   At least in the near term, there is much more to lose than to gain by the hasty and unthoughtful introduction of a profound new technology into the marketplace, particularly when Parachrom hairpsprings work quite well already.

But there is no doubt that the introduction of the Syloxi hairspring is a major advancement for Rolex, and the possibility that it could one day be a major part of the Rolex caliber families is a real one.  Which naturally brings us to the “what’s next” question.  Likely, introduction into a caliber used for Rolex’s mens range.   Whether that happens one year or ten years from now is pure conjecture.  Beyond this, the question is more broad:  what’s next for Syloxi?  Watch components other than just hairsprings could be made of the high-tech material, and that’s where things could start to get really interesting over at Rolex.

One thing is for sure, these are exciting times for Rolex’s new high-performance silicon heart known as the Syloxi hairspring.

Friday, November 8, 2019

1971 Rolex Porsche 911 E Targa Ad

1971 Rolex Porsche 911 E Targa Ad

Nicolas from shared this vintage Rolex ad that features a bejeweled Platinum Day-Date from 1971, which is AMAZING!!!!

Below, we see a photo of a Porsche 1971 911E Targa which was a basically a convertible 911 with a built-in heavy duty roll-bar.

Thursday, November 7, 2019

Brad Pitt and Sylvester Stallone Pepsi GMT-Master

...Rolex Coolness...

Brad Pitt and Sylvester Stallone

Pepsi GMT-Master

In the recent photo below we see legendary actors, Brad Pitt and Sylvester Stallone hanging out together and Stallone is rockin' his stainless steel Pepsi GMT-Master on a Jubilee bracelet. It really seems like Rolex breathed new life into the Jubilee bracelet by making it the exclusive bracelet for the new stainless Pepsi GMT-Master, and it looks fantastic!!!

Rolex did one of the strangest things I have ever witnessed when they discontinued the Pepsi GMT-Master back in 2005, but Rolex brought back the Pepsi last year when they reintroduced it at Baselworld to amazing accolades!!!

Wednesday, November 6, 2019

Yellow Gold Rolex Submariner

...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Yellow Gold Rolex Submariner

Tuesday, November 5, 2019

Jean-Claude Biver Interview

Jean-Claude Biver Interview

Legendary horological executive, Jean-Claude Biver discusses his private watch collection including many of his Rolex watches. As always, Jean-Claude is never at a loss for words, but is ALWAYS fascinatingly insightful! I Highly recommend watching this video!

Monday, November 4, 2019

"Why are Rolex Bracelets so special?"

Spanish Magazine Article Interview

"Why are Rolex Bracelets so special?"

I was recently interviewed by a magazine published in Spain named about Rolex Bracelets, and the article was just published as seen below.

Adrés Moreno asked me the question:

"Why are Rolex Bracelets so special?"

I could have written a book just to answer this question, but due to time constraints I had to be terse and here is my answer to Andrés question:

"Rolex metal bracelets are a universe in and of themselves. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex originally developed solid metal Rolex bracelets as a much better alternative to leather buckle straps which would wear out much more quickly. In other words, Rolex bracelets offered a perfectly balanced Yin to the Oyster Case Yang. 

Today, Rolex’s three most iconic bracelets are the Jubilee, Oyster and President—the first of which was developed and launched three quarters of a century ago in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s Ruby Jubilee in the form of the Jubilee Bracelet on the revolutionary Rolex Datejust model.

If you study the evolution of Rolex bracelets you find they closely parallel the timeless design language of the watches themselves. Rolex’s super-iconic trademark bracelets are the result of purpose driven design coupled with perpetual refinement and innovation that have resulted in maximum comfort, elegance and utility on the wrist."

Sunday, November 3, 2019

Casey Neistat: Yellow Gold Rolex Submariner

Casey Neistat

Yellow Gold Rolex Submariner

Rockin The New $400 Mavic Mini Drone

Casey Neistat one of the top YouTubers today and in the past I reported on him wearing his Rolex Datejust. I just noticed he is now rocking a yellow gold Rolex Submariner as you can see in this video where he shows of the all-new Mavic Mini Drone which retails for $400, which is pretty crazy amazing affordable. Now everybody is going to have a drone!

Saturday, November 2, 2019

The John Player Special...Exotic Dial Up Close...

...Rolex Macro Shot Of The Day...

The John Player Special

Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona

Can it be that it was all so simple then...

...or has TIME rewritten every line?

Thursday, October 31, 2019

Lady Gaga and David Beckham

Lady Gaga 


David Beckham 

Talk Tudor in Los Angeles

Tudor recently released this interesting video that features Tudor brand Ambassadors, Lady Gaga and David Beckham talking about their lives.

Green is Rolex's primary color in their logo, and I could not help but notice that both Lady Gaga and David Beckham both have green eyes!?!! This is so rare, as only green eyes are really rare. As a matter of fact, only 2% of the human population has green eyes...

The video interview between Lady Gaga and David Beckham was filmed in the famous Sheats-Goldstein Residence in Los Angeles, which is know for its fascinating modern architecture and views as seen below in the photo from NPR's Jeff Green.

I am not only a designer, but a design fanatic of the highest order, which is why I have always loved Rolex so much. I am also a huge fan of Architecture, and publish Jake's Architecture World. I have been meaning to do story on the Sheats-Goldstein house which was designed by John Lautner, who in the mid-1930s was an apprentice of Frank Lloyd Wright, so here are some great videos that offer a superb topographical understanding of this amazing piece of residential property with crazy view of the Los Angeles basin.


Wednesday, October 30, 2019

Mercedes EQS: The Future of The Mercedes-Benz "S" Class

Mercedes EQS

The Future of 
The Mercedes-Benz "S" Class
All Electric Sedan

Rolex is renowned for its timeless designs coupled with enduring build quality, just like Mercedes Benz. Mercedes Benz recently unveiled a prototype of its upcoming all new Electric "S" Class Sedan which is named 'EQS', and it looks SUPER-COOL...In this video we get the first tour of this new masterpiece from Mercedes...

I don't know about you, but I almost fell out of my chair when I first saw this amazing new design...

My concern with this car, is despite its promise, Mercedes is so far behind Tesla, by the time this car is available, it may be obsolete...particularly if Tesla will be offering full autonomy...

Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Paul Newman Daytona

...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Paul Newman Daytona

Monday, October 28, 2019

Eddie Murphy Yellow Gold Day-Date

The Return of The King of Comedy

Eddie Murphy

Yellow Gold Day-Date

Eddie Murphy was recently on the Late show with Steven Colbert talking about how he plans to return to startup comedy as well as coming back to host Saturday Night Live for the first time in 35 years, and notice he is wearing his Masterpiece Rolex Day-Date.

Saturday, October 26, 2019

Rolex Hotness: Cheryl Tiegs The First Supermodel In History

...Rolex Hotness...

Cheryl Tiegs

The First Supermodel In History

Many iconic females in the 1970s wore smaller Rolex watches including Charlie's Angles. Also, since the 1960s, women began wearing men's Rolex watches. T. Walker Lloyd, who is a former Rolex executive did a podcast interview with me where he told a great story about Cheryl Tiegs and he mentioned her Rolex and you can see she is wearing a Rolex Lady-Date in the photo below (Ladies, Rolex President).

Cheryl Tiegs was not only a successful supermodel, but also extremely successful as a brand ambassador for companies like Olympus Camera, and she even had her own designer signature clothing and accessory line at Sears, which from 1980 to 1989 sold close to a Billion dollars!

Cheryl Tiegs wore at least two different Rolex watches. She wore a Rolex Lady-Date on a President Bracelet, as well as two-tone Ladies Datejust.

Cheryl Tiegs became the worlds first real Supermodel in the 1970s and she graced the cover of Sports Illustrated many times.

Cherly Tiegs is pictured below with her famous husband and fashion photographer, Peter Beard, who at the time was wearing a men's Rolex Datejust.

Friday, October 25, 2019

1972 Magainze Ad What Kind Of Man Spends $1,400 For A Watch?

1972 Magainze Ad

What Kind Of Man Spends $1,400 For A Watch?

Thursday, October 24, 2019

Rolex Wrist Shot of The Day: Green Rolex Milgauss GV

...Rolex Wrist Shot of The Day...

Green Rolex Milgauss GV

@Superwatchman posted this crazy cool image of his Rolex Milgauss on a rainy day on which ended up on Instagram on #watchmania

Wednesday, October 23, 2019

Profiles In Cololness: Jazz Legend Miles Davis Rolex Day-Date...

Jazzman, Take My Blues Away

Lift me, won't you lift me, above the old routine;
Make it nice, play it clean—Jazzman!!!

When the Jazzman's testifyin', a faithless man believes
He can sing you into paradise, or bring you to your knees.

It's a gospel kind of feelin', a touch of Georgia slide,
A song of pure revival, and a style that's sanctified.

Jazzman, take my blues away;
Make my pain the same as yours with every change you play.
Jazzman, oh Jazzman!

When the Jazzman's signifyin', and the band is windin' low.
It's the late night side of morning in the darkness of his soul.

He can fill a room with sadness as he fills his horn with tears.
He can cry like a fallen angel when risin' time is near.

Jazzman, take my blues away;
Make my pain the same as yours with every change you play.
Oh lift me, won't you lift me with ev'ry turn around;
Play it sweetly, take me down, oh Jazzman.

—Carol King (1974)

 Nine Time Grammy Winner 

...Rolex Super Coolness...

Miles Davis


Jazz Superstar & Legend
Yellow Gold Rolex Day-Date

Jazz music began purely as an American art form. Jazz music, borders between being esoteric and arcane. Jazz, typically, is an art form appreciated by an older sound palette than a younger one.

In the first image seen below, Jazz Legend Miles Davis is wearing his trademark diamond encrusted Yellow Gold Rolex Day-Date.

Miles Davis Photos above and below Appear Courtesy of Anthony Barboza

The Birth Of Cool

Miles "Dewey" Davis III., was born into an affluent family, and his father was a Doctor and oral surgeon. Miles mother, was a lovely women who played the violin and sang. His parents recognized early on that Miles was very musically talented.

Miles and attended the Juilliard School in New York City, but spend a lot of time around his idols including Jazz legend, Dizzy Gillespie. Miles Davis would attend Juilliard by day, and was mentored by Dizzy Gillespie by night on the neon streets of Broadway in New York Jazz Clubs. Miles was the first Jazz musician to play and record and Carnegie Hall in New York.

Dizzy Gillespie and Miles Davis both started performing and recording with jazz legend Charlie Parker in 1945, and we see Dizzy Gillespie playing trumpet side by side with Miles Davis in 1952. Dizzy was 9 years older than Miles.

If you look closely at the photo below, taken in the late 1950s, you will notice Dizzy Gillespie wearing his Pepsi GMT-Master, as the Jazzman plays his trumpet in front of Miles Davis.

"Years from now and through time, when people hear the lonely sound of a horn, they will be hearing Miles Davis." —Dizzy Gillespie

Dizzy Gillespie is pictured below with Miles Davis, working on a composition in Paris, France in 1958.

In 1956, Dizzie Gillespie became the worlds first formal Jazz ambassador when the State Department sent him on the worlds first world Jazz tour. Dizzy Gillespie famously wore his trademark Rolex GMT-Master.

Dizzy Gillespie is picture below in 1961 with jazz saxophone legend, John Coltrane, and if you look closely, you see Dizzy's Rolex Jubilee bracelet. Jazz was cool, and so was Rolex with Jazz.

Dizzy Gillespie is picture below wearing his Rolex GMT-Master on an Oyster Bracelet.

Brooks Brother

Miles Davis personal fashion history is absolutely fascinating. Miles Davis' father, was a Doctor, and dressed very conservatively, as did most Americans in the era he grew up in. Miles Initially started out in the 1950s and early 1960s exclusively wearing Brooks Brothers, like his father, Dr. Davis.

Basically, Miles Davis style of dress would be considered to be timeless, elegant, and even preppy, as seen in the photo below where he is wearing a Brooks Brothers Buttondown. The classic Brooks Brothers Buttondown is characterized by its very full cut, longer collar, and lack of places buttons on the sleeve. 

Miles Davis style of dress could even be referred to as being kind of 'Mod' in the late 1950s and early 1960s. This of course would all change in due time, as he explored and evolved into his own eclectic style, but if you think about it, the way he dressed in his early career was super classic and timeless, with a sense of charisma—much like a Rolex watch.

The Cool Jazz Sound

The following video is considered to be a seminal, high-water-mark time in Jazz History. Some say this was Miles Davis at his best. When he was still in his strick Brooks Brothers phase, and Eisenhower was still President of the U.S. Before the heavy funk set in...

The next video of the Miles Davis Quintet was filmed live on October 11, 1964 at Teatro dell'Arte in Milano, Italia, and is amazing!!! 

In the image below, from 1967 I originally thought  Miles Davis was wearing a Paul Newman Rolex Daytona, but after close scrutiny, I realized he is wearing a Breitling Navitimer.

The famous photo below shows Miles Davis chatting with The King Of Cool, Steve McQueen, in 1963 at the Monterey Jazz Festival. This photo was taken by my lifelong friend, Jim Marshall. Ironically, it was Jim Marshall who taught me how to use a camera when I was a 11 years old...

In the this video we see Miles Davis wearing his Rolex Day Date on stage.

The Miles Davis Story Documentary

Miles Davis Photo Appears Courtesy of Anthony Barboza

In the videos below, all shot in 1985, we see Miles Davis sporting his yellow gold Rolex Day-Date.