WATCHES AND WONDERS, 100th Anniversary Rolex Oyster

WATCHES AND WONDERS

...A CELEBRATION OF 100 YEARS OF THE OYSTER...

 100th Anniversary 

Rolex Oyster

Rolex's teaser video showed the detail pictured below a few days before Watches and Wonders 2026 got underway, which features the "100 YEARS" dial designation in the position where Rolex usually places the "SWISS MADE" dial designation.

Let's closely examine the details of this very interesting Rolex novelty and then we will dive into the history of the Rolex OYSTER in order to properly contextualize this beauty. Rolex, in their own words perfectly introduce the features that set this beauty apart:

The first thing we notice is this watch has so much Rolex Oyster DNA, while incorporating a number of different new features that serve to really differentiate this model that celebrates 100 YEARS of the Rolex Oyster. 

To the best of my knowledge, Rolex has NEVER made a modern two-tone Oyster Perpetual, or any model for that matter, that ONLY has a yellow gold bezel without making the center links of the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet in matching yellow gold. This subtle change in appearance really sets this watch apart.

I would say this Rolex has a unique vibe, all its own, in that it really is retro-futuristic, in a totally classic and timeless way only Rolex could produce. In other words, it looks like it's from the past, and future simultaneously, which is what makes it so timeless.

Also, the 60 Second track that runs around the 5-Second baton markers, features square markers in Rolex green, which also match the "ROLEX" dial designation which is unusual. By screen printing the "ROLEX" dial designation in green, is kind of camouflages it, so then words "OYSTER PERPETUAL" REALLY stand out and pop. 

In other words, traditionally Rolex prints both lines in white so they both pop, but on his model, Rolex really put the primary focus on "OYSTER PERPETUAL", far more than on "ROLEX", which makes perfect sense as this watch clearly celebrates the 100th Anniversary of the Rolex Oyster.

HISTORY MAY NOT REPEAT ITSELF...

...BUT IT SURE DOES RYHME

       “The vision recurs; the eastern sun has a second rise; history repeats her tale unconsciously, and goes off into a mystic rhyme; ages are prototypes of other ages, and the winding course of time brings us round to the same spot again.”  

—Mystic Rhyme 1845

1956 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual

The ROLEX Magazine ad below was originally published in 1956, which was 70 years ago on the 30th Anniversary of the the Rolex Oyster, and notice the unmistakable doubled-up timeless design language for the 15, 30 and 45 minute baton markers, which I originally published in 2022. This design language feature was incorporated into the most recent Rolex Oyster Perpetual models when they were introduced in 2020. This design language not only stands testament to what makes Rolex watches so timeless, but also illustrates how Rolex has almost perfectly maintained its design language secret formula.

JAKE'S TAKE

I have one detail I would LOVE to see Rolex incorporate which I think would improve Rolex models like the Oyster Perpetual, and that would be to bring back the dauphin pointed sword style hands from the mid 1950s. Dauphin hands from the 1950s represented late art deco, known as Populuxe, which was more of a futuristic, space age, modern, sharp, clean streamlined look. 

As we see in the 1956 Rolex Magazine "ROLEX OYSTER" ad pictured above, it featured dauphin hands, which I think are infinitely more "ROLEXY", and I think Rolex should offer them as an option. In other words, I think Rolex should still offer their standard lumed rectangular hands as pictured below on the "100 YEARS" model, but I think they should also offer the retro 1950s dauphin hands, as I mocked up on the left side, which create a lot more visual interest and contrast, while making the watch look more vintage/retro and sharp looking. 

For frame of reference, the photo below shows a 1956 Rolex Oyster Perpetual with the dual baton markers coupled with dauphin hands, and appears courtesy of OldTimer.Watch. This appears to be remarkably similar to the model featured above in the 1956 Rolex Magazine ad with the difference being the one pictured below is on a Rolex Oyster strap, as apposed to the one in the ad being on a leather strap.

THE ROLEX CHRONICLES

By JAKE EHRLICH

Speaking of "JAKE'S TAKE", I have an interesting update to share with you on my book series I have been working of for years now. In my books series, I go into great detail on the history of the Rolex Oyster, which is deeply profound on many levels, as the Rolex Oyster is arguably on of the most most profound watch innovations in history.

I have been working on a series of books now, which are up to 28 volumes, which makes my book series titled "THE ROLEX CHRONICLES by JAKE EHRLICH" a veritable encyclopedia on Rolex History.

After a lot of thought, I decided my first Rolex book series will be on the subject of "ROLEX'S FOUNDING FATHERS", and the first four volumes cover then entire life journey of Rolex's legendary founder, Hans Wilsdorf. In other words, my book series covers his entire lifetime of achievements from cradle to grave, then continues on with books on the other three men who are most responsible for creating the most timeless and renowned brands in history.

For the record, this series reveals a great deal of previously undocumented history, while representing a formidable masterclass in strategic brand architecture and marketing. In other words, I think I have created what will not only be one of the most beautiful sets of coffee table books, but will offer the equivalent of an MBA and marketing degree by exploring what makes Rolex tick. I hope to launch volume 1 of this book series later this year, probably in September, but you can see the cover art pictured above, and the back of the book artwork pictured below.

1927

Earliest Rolex Oyster Ads

The Rolex Oyster ad pictured below (discovered by Nick Gould) was published in November of 1927 and is the earliest known Rolex Magazine advertisement for the "ROLEX OYSTER". 

The 1927 Rolex Oyster advertisement pictured below appears in Volume 2 of my upcoming Rolex history book series and represents one of the earliest Rolex Magazine advertisements for Rolex's then new Rolex 'OYSTER' models, and offers fascinating insight into the brilliant marketing mind of Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf. This Rolex Magazine ad really sums up the essence of the Rolex Oyster, and it was published 99 years ago.

1928

Rolex Oyster Ad

The vintage Rolex Magazine ad below is from 1928 and offers brilliant insight into the genesis of the Rolex Oyster being used as an aquatic watch.

1929

Rolex Magazine Story

Below we see a fascinating article, discovered by Nick Gould, from the Sales Management Magazine that was published on August 31, 1929, which was an American publication, that discussed the subject topic of "How Rolex Watches Won National Distribution in England".

The specific Rolex Oyster ad that featured Mercedes Gleitze after her vindication swim is pictured below and notice it's dated November 24, 1927.

The image above was published by Rolex around 2008, which features a slightly different layout than what would appear to be the original version pictured below from the Daily Mail, which is also dated November 24, 1927. I genuinely have no idea why the versions above shows the four Rolex Oyster models pictured horizontally on the bottom of the page, while the version below shows them posted vertically on the right side.

I originally published this "MAKE IT A ROLEXMAS" Rolex Magazine ad in my story titled "The Vintage Rolex Christmas Ads & Black Tie Guide", which I update and publish and have published every holiday season for the past 18 years on RolexMagazine.com. The best scholarship suggest that Rolex Founder, Hans Wilsdorf wanted to take advantage of publishing this Rolex advertorial to take advantage of the Christmas 1927 timeframe:

I wrote my first story about Mercedes Gleitze (pictured below in 1927) and her vindication swim back on December 1st in 2008 in an early article titled "The History of The Rolex Oyster."

I also wrote extensively in my article titled "The Rolex Woman" about Merceds Gleitze. The image below is also an early Rolex Oyster ad for women.

The image below features British actress, Evelyn Laye, which was mentioned in the article above on the Rolex Oyster.

1932

Rolex Oyster Fishbowl

The image below was published in 1932 and showcases a Rolex Oyster in a fishbowl, which shows why Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf was "THE ORIGINAL MAD MAN OF WATCHMAKING".

Hans Wilsdorf was a marketing and watchmaking pioneer—light-years ahead of his time. Rolex’s sponsorship of the Academy Awards today is a modern manifestation of a marketing approach that began with its founder, Hans Wilsdorf. Close to a century ago, Wilsdorf was already incorporating Hollywood glamour into Rolex Magazine advertisements, as seen in this 1932 ‘Rolex Oyster’ ad featuring tinseltown actress Edwina Booth. 

Long before celebrity endorsements became a cornerstone of modern advertising, Wilsdorf recognized their potential to transform Rolex into a status symbol of aspiration, and sophistication. 

This bold move showcased Rolex’s early adoption of celebrity allure. The advertisement depicted Booth admiring a ‘Rolex Oyster’ wristwatch floating in a fishbowl, linking the brand to Hollywood’s golden age prestige. Wilsdorf’s innovative use of storytelling and endorsements established Rolex as a luxury icon, paving the way for its current high-profile Academy Awards partnership.

1932

Rolex Magazine

Fishbowl Ad

The Rolex Magazine ad for the Rolex Oyster below was published in 1936.

The Hunt For The Earliest Rolex Submariner Ad 1954 Rolex Submariner Ad

 

The Hunt For The Earliest Submariner Ad

1954 Rolex Submariner Ad

If you are a regular reader of Jake's Rolex World, you know I am working a series of books that cover the entire history of Rolex. One of the subjects I cover in great detail in the books is the genesis of the Rolex Submariner which remains one of the most icon watches in history. In particular, I am fascinated with the really early Rolex Submariner advertisements. 

Above we see a very early ad that was originally published in the Tampa Morning Tribune on November 25, 1954, and it is filled with all kinds of fascinating detail, including the fact the first Rolex Submariner retailed for $150!?!?!?!

Also, we see the correct pronunciation of "Sub-Marine", which means the model was correctly pronounced Sub-Marine-er. Below is the upcoming book cover of the volume that goes into great detail on the origins of the Rolex Submariner:

 

New James Bond Rolex History Volume Added

From Switzerland with Love

I recently announced I am coming out with a series of 5 books that covered the entire history of Rolex. 

One More Thang!!!

Things have changed since then as I realized that 5 volumes would NOT be enough!!! In the not so distant future I will post an update on my progress but in the meantime I thought I would share the fact with you I am working on a book dedicated to the History of James Bond and Rolex, and below is a copy of the preliminary book cover artwork.

On Her Majesty's Secret Service

Thunderballs.org recently showcased this really cool James Bond poster concept for "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" which I had never seen before. If you are not familiar with Thunderballs.org, I highly recommend you head over and check it out as it offers tremendous insight into the amazing history of the James Bond enterprise...

15th Anniversary Announcement: All-New 5 Volume Rolex History Book Series Coming!!!!

15th Anniversary 

Announcement

Hi Everybody!

It's hard to believe I've entered my 15th straight year of publishing Jake's Rolex World @ RolexMagazine.com, and to celebrate this momentous occasion, I have some superb news to share with you! 

I am finally coming out with a series of Books on Rolex History!!! As we see in the graphic above there will be 5 different books and there is a description at the bottom of this story on each book. If you want to learn everything about the REAL history of Rolex, this series of books will completely blow your mind!!!

I was originally planning to write just one book, but once I hit the 1000 page threshold I realized I would need to break up my book into multiple volumes. The book artwork above and below are the original book artwork that show the front, rear and spine of the book.

Essentially, the original book idea was about the Founding Fathers of Rolex and how they built one of the most timeless, successful and prestigious brands in history. 

As mentioned, I was originally going to write just one book, but once I began putting the book together I soon realized one book could not hold all the information, so after a great deal of analysis and contemplation I decided to break it up into 5 separate volumes that cover the entire Rolex History Arc from the beginning of timekeeping up to today. 

I have probably read every book ever written on Rolex, and I can promise you this 5 volume series will radically surpass them!!!

To date, nobody has come even close to capturing Rolex's true history, which is my solemn commitment with this series...

Volume 1: The introductory volume for this upcoming series begins with a brief overview of the history of horology and timekeeping. It then goes into great detail on the life and times of Rolex Founder, Hans Wilsdorf. It offers all kinds of fascinating new insight on Rolex's development of the Rolex Oyster and Rolex Perpetual, and offers tremendous understanding into what made one of the most successful entrepreneurs in history (Hans Wilsdorf) tick. Hans Wilsdorf, if you really think about it, was the archetype for the original Mad Man, in the sense he really understood the power of bold and memorable branding coupled with superb eye-catching advertising that included testimonies.

Below we see an original 1930s art-deco cosmopolitan Rolex Oyster Perpetual poster that features a distinguished regal man with a walking cane strutting through an urban metropolis. This was a new modern world in which anything was possible, and just like today, it was a story about man and his machines.

PRELUDE 

The 1942 Rolex Error-Proof Oyster Perpetual poster below introduced a new Rolex bubble back model with the now classic "Mercedes" hour hand, as well as the timeless art-deco design language which includes the upside-down luminescent triangle marker at 12, as well as the rectangular makers at 3, 6 & 9, which would later become standard on the Rolex Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer II and SEA-DWELLER. A bizarre irony of this poster is that ERROR-PROOF RADUIM DIAL is misspelled :-0

The photo below shows a Rolex watchmaker in Geneva, Switzerland in the 1940s working on a Rolex watch under a microscope.

Volume 2: Which is pictured below, focuses on a Rolex executive who up until now people previously new very little about. This volume goes into detail on his background and how he began his career working for Rolex. The following is a short excerpt on our mystery man. 

 The Mysterious

Wizard of ROLEX

                                                   

Switzerland has long been know for its mysterious neutrality, discretion and secrecy. This would include the Gnomes of Switzerland, which include Swiss bankers. But what about Rolex?

Imagine I told you there was a highly enigmatic, mysterious Swiss Marketing Wizard, responsible for the majority of Rolex’s success, including the development of the Rolex Submariner, SEA-DWELLER, Turn-O-Graph, Daytona, GMT-Master, Day-Date, Datejust, King Midas, & Tudor Monte Carlo, but nobody knows he ever existed—not even the people who run Rolex today even know much about him or would recognize a photo of him (like the one below)? 

That's right!?!! I believe out of all the people who view the photo below of the very cool mystery man, and unsung Rolex hero and marketing pioneer, with the cool aviator sunglasses nobody will recognize him!?!! If you recognize him, please prove me wrong, but I would be willing to bet not a single person who initially reads this story will recognize the man pictured below.

Mysterious Pioneering Rolex Marketing Director

What if I told you this Rolex marketing connoisseur (pictured above) was so discreet he evaded history, yet left an indelible imprint on Rolex's ethos & DNA, including the fact he was responsible for developing and bringing the following ultra-iconic Rolex watch models to market?:

• 1945: Rolex Datejust
• 1954: Rolex Explorer
• 1954: Rolex Turn-O-Graph
• 1954: Rolex Submariner
• 1954: Rolex Millgauss
• 1956: Rolex Day-Date
• 1956: Rolex GMT-Master
• 1957: Rolex President Bracelet
• 1962: Rolex King Midas
• 1963: Rolex Daytona
• 1967: Rolex SEA-DWELLER
• 1970: Tudor Monte Carlo
• 1971: Rolex Explorer II

Sounds unbelievable, doesn’t it? It turns out reality IS stranger than fiction, as such a man existed, and his historical significance represents the holy grail missing Rolex nexus puzzle piece, which for the first time will be revealed and documented in great detail in this set of 5 Rolex History books...

Rolex Revelation

I must begin by thanking Dominique Jeanneret (pictured below) for sharing all of her kind assistance, gracious insight, photos and most importantly, making an indispensable contribution to this exceedingly timely and momentous Book. Dominique Jeanneret is the daughter of our previously mentioned mystery man, former Rolex Director and maverick marketing MAD MAN (literally), René-Paul Jeanneret, and she is also the goddaughter of Rolex Founder, Hans Wilsdorf. 

René-Paul Jeanneret's daughter, Dominique Jeanneret 

(Rolex Founder, Hans Wilsdorf's goddaughter) pictured above 

Dominique Jeanneret's first person accounting as a primary source with her highly insightful recollections and anecdotes regarding her father, René-Paul Jeanneret are invaluable as she witnessed many significant Rolex history events first-hand, which vividly come to life in this spectacular story...Dominique worked for Rolex U.S.A., back in the 1960s which I also cover...

Former Rolex Director, René-Paul Jeanneret's Rolex Crown Money Clip

 appears courtesy of Dominique Jeanneret & Piguet Auction House

The Rolex Executive Who 

Developed The Submariner

René-Paul Jeanneret was not only the Marketing Director for Rolex in Geneva, Switzerland, but was also an avid SCUBA diver who developed the Rolex Submariner & SEA-DWELLER for Rolex. Anonymous photos of René-Paul Jeanneret SCUBA Diving were featured in many vintage Rolex Submariner magazine advertisements including the French one below...(Just to be clear, that is a photo of René-Paul Jeanneret testing an early Rolex Submariner prototype as he SCUBA dives in the early 1950s in Cannes on the French Riviera featured in the Rolex Ad below)! This scholarship level series of books goes into great detail on the previously undocumented development of the Rolex Submariner...

Volume 3: Is ultra-fascinating, with a great deal of previously undocumented history on the development of the Rolex Professional Tool watches as well as many specialty models like the star dialed Rolex Galaxy pictured below from 1953.

All of these volumes have been deeply researched and offer a completely new perspective on a great deal of Rolex history, as well as adding a new level of precision to the Rolex historical timeline.

If you are wondering why I originally planned to name my book ROLEX MAD MEN: How they Created The International Mark of Success, and why I ended up giving that name to Volume 3, it has to do with the fact that there are 2 men in history that were literal MAD MEN, that ended up working for Rolex in Geneva. The parallels between these men and the TV show are uncanny as I go into much more detail in my books. Below is an excerpt from my books which contextualizes the meaning:

MAD MEN

Since the roaring 1920s, Madison Avenue (named after the fourth President of the United States—James Madison) has been highly metonymous with the American Advertising establishment. 

Madison Avenue is a North-South borough of Manhattan in New York City and is considered by many to be the advertising mecca of the world. As we will learn later in this story several of the maverick pioneers of Madison Avenue Marketing in the 1920s ended up having a tremendous impact and influence on Rolex's future success and longevity. Thus, this is the story of ROLEX MAD MEN.

Rolex U.S.A. Headquarters are located one street over from Madison Avenue on 5th Avenue in New York City as we see in the aerial map above. Our Captain Danny posited this was likely not a coincidence as Rolex built their U.S.A. Headquarters so close to Madison Avenue in the 1970s.

Reality IS stranger than fiction and when I think of Madison Avenue, of course I think of Mad Men, which starred Jon Hamm who is pictured below rocking an iconic Rolex Explorer. Hamm's role as Don Draper was in many ways similar to the role some of Rolex's top visionary marketing men who once worked for J. Walter Thompson (JWT) in New York played in reality in developing and marketing Rolex. 

It is interesting to note Mad Men star Jon Hamm famously played my Grandfather, JAKE Ehrlich Sr., in the Movie "Howl". It turns out, it is a small world after all...

Rolex went crazy with experimenting with R&D in the early 1950s, and created many experimental prototypes like the Rolex Turn-O-Graph pictured below with a white honeycomb dial and magnificent dauphin hands.

Volume 4: Covers the André-Jean Heiniger reign and goes into great detail on how this maverick leader reinvented the Rolex brand and turned it into one of the most prestigious brands on earth today. So far, this is the largest book in the series as it covers 3 decades of Rolex's amazing history...

André-Jean Heiniger was an absolutely amazing leader and is largely responsible for the modernization of Rolex. In the photo below from the S3C private collection we see André-Jean Heiniger, who was the second Director General of Rolex awarding Björn Borg with a Rolex Datejust for having won the Wimbledon Men's finals in 1980.

Volume 5: The last volume covers the reign of Patrick Heiniger and goes into detail on how he radically consolidated the brand, and rebuilt Rolex for the 21st Century. In this volume I also cover the history of Jake's Rolex World, and share a great deal of fascinating insight on what makes Rolex tick today.

Why I wrote this series of 5 Rolex History books?

Around the time I was born, Rolex had a slogan that said “When a man has a world in his hands you expect to find a Rolex on his wrist.” 

If You Have a Rolex on Your Wrist You Will Soon Have

The Whole World of Rolex in Your Hand! 

For the first time in history, this series of books puts the entire history of Rolex in your hands. Every seminal moment; every key character; every epic and essential historic moment. This is Rolex history as it’s never been seen or known before... 

The Apple Book books version look amazing and is optimized for viewing on an iPhone, so if you ever get stuck in line somewhere, time will fly by as you learn a great deal about Rolex's amazing history...

This book series will be the ultimate Rolex companion. It's hyper-engaging and will keep you enthralled for countless hours on end! If you think you’ve see it all in the world of Rolex history you’ll be pleasantly surprised with these books!!! 

This is Rolex’s story about what make them tick as well as my own Rolex journey that made me not only the metaphorical Rolex President of their fan club, but also my story of how I unearthed and shared their forgotten history in many ways...

Just to be clear, these books go far beyond everything I have published to date, and offer a much wider scope and breadth.

Print Book Size: 11 x 14 (will initially be exclusively available for purchase on RolexMagazine.com).

Apple Digital Book Size: 11 x 14 (will be available exclusively on the Apple Books Store, which will be viewable on any Mac, iPhone, or iPad. Digital Apple Books version will continue to be updated as new information and photos are discovered, and will feature exclusive video and audio content not possible in printed version. Apple Books version will make content accessible from everywhere whether on an iPhone, iPad or Mac.

Even though I plan to publish paper versions of my series of books, I really like the digital version as it is so portable. So for instance if you go on vacation, it would be much easier to read all 5 books on the airplane on an iPad, than having to carry physical books with you...Not to mention, the Apple Books version has a great deal of bonus video and audio material, not to mention links to stories on Jake's Rolex World, as well as other web sources...

Book Style: Coffee Table Book with easy to read larger text and a zillion high quality photos. 

Chapters: 50+

Page Number: So far I am up beyond 1400 pages, and expect there to be at least 1500 pages when complete. This will break down to around 300 pages per volume.

Pricing: Yet to be determined.

Publication Date Roadmap: I plan to publish both a printed paper version of my books as well as a digital version on the Apple Books platform. I think it is likely I will first publish a digital version. I also think with the digital version I will roll it out one volume per month until they are all available.

Current development status: The books are primarily complete. I am now working on fine-tuning all the amazing details.

As soon as I get closer to a first publication date, I will update this article and bring it back up to the top of RolexMagazine.com.