AMAZING ROLEX Watches And Wonders VIDEO From Adrian Barker

AMAZING ROLEX VIDEO COVERAGE 
FROM WATCHES AND WONDERS 2023
From Adrian Barker

I have been a big fan of Adrian Barker from Bark And Jack for some time now, and in his newest video, Adrain offers an AMAZINGLY insightful overview of the novelties from Watches And Wonders! In particular, Adrian shares all kinds of information I had no idea about, and I love how he wastes zero time in this video. Enjoy!!!

Rolex Newest Line: The 1908

JAKE'S 1908 TAKE

Danny's article seen below offers a great overview of the new Rolex 1908, but I want to share my perspective. I think the new model looks great but I think having a white minute marker track on this watch is a mistake. It should have a gilt gold seconded and sub second tracks.

2023 Rolex 1908 New Model Introduction

Also, I think Rolex should take things to the next level and start making grand complications again. I am a designer and I have spend thousands of hours studying all the Rolex and Patek grand complications and I came up with the triple-date-moonphase dial design seen below, which I think would look AMAZING in a 1908 case as seen below.

2025 Rolex 1908 Triple Date Grand Complication Concept Design by Jake Ehrlich

My Rolex triple date grand complication design seen above is high design and has some excellent features. I originally showcased my design concept on my article named The Complete History of the Rolex Triple Date Moonphase. 

First, it replaces the 3 and 9 button markers with the Day and Month windows, and this version incorporates rubies for the minute markers between the 5 minute markers, which gives it that 'touch of red' vibe, which beautifully compliments the cobalt blue moonphonse dial. I also included a version of my design concept below with all gold markers for frame of reference. Rolex, if you are listening, PLEASE MAKE THIS WATCH!!!!!

2025 Rolex 1908 Triple Date Grand Complication Concept Design by Jake Ehrlich

NEW: THE PERPETUAL 1908

By DANNY CRIVELLO

Last week I wrote a story alerting Jake's Rolex World readers Rolex had just trademarked "1908" and "Perpetual 1908," and I was wondering whether a new watch that was tapping into the roots of the brand would be unveiled at Watches & Wonders. 

On Monday, after a half-century of production Rolex discontinued the Cellini line including its only moonphase in the collection and released two models for a new line called "1908" named after the year the Rolex brand was created. It is likely we will see more complications in the 1908 line in years to come, including a moonphase version.

The 1908 features a 39 mm case in 18 ct yellow or white gold and equipped with a brand new movement unveiled this year, the 7140. The strap is in alligator leather. With the 1908 line, Rolex also brings back the exhibition caseback.

Thank you to Clement Entretemps for sending us the pictures.

A Throwback to the 1931 Oyster Perpetual

The design language on the new 1908 model with the Arab numeric 3, 9, 12 markers and its small seconds hand at 6 o’clock revisits and is derivative of the style of an Oyster Perpetual from 1931 seen above.

Live Pictures: The 2023 GMT-Master II

THE NEW GMT-MASTER II

Clément, who is a friend of mine and the host of the excellent French watch channel Clément Entretemps, sent me these pictures for publication. 

Jake's Take: I am kind of blown-away with these new All Gold and Two-Tone models as they are so Retro-Futuristic looking...In other words, they look very vintagey, like they are from the 1960s, but at the same time they are ultra modern. So basically, they are TIMELESS. What do I mean by timeless? Timeless design is when something looks like it's from the past and future simultaneously. 

Jenni Elle Responds to Watches And Wonders Novelties

 

You Know: Wowlex!

Jenni Elle Waxes Poetic on 

2023 Watches And Wonders Novelties

Jenni Elle ALWAYS offers fascinating insight and opinions on Rolex as she psychoanalyzes Wowlex! In this excellent video Jenni offers her perspective on the new novelties at Watches And Wonders 2023, and discusses many of the Rolex watch models that have been discontinued. FYI, ICYWI We have MUCH, MUCH more Watches & Wonders 2023 coverage coming up so stay tuned!!!

"

Rolex Discontinues the Milgauss

 

...MILLE MINUTES OF SILENCE...

ROLEX DISCONTINUES

THE MILGAUSS. AGAIN.

By DANNY CRIVELLO

Before colors became the new black, the Milgauss was the most colorful Rolex in the collection. It was not just the anti-magnetic watch for the nerd, it was the un-Rolex Rolex for the young and cool.

First introduced in 1954, eventually discontinued in the late '80s before it was brought back in 2007, the Milgauss's death had been greatly exaggerated. A lightning orange second hand, a green sapphire crystal or Glasse Verte, it represented the watch for those who wanted to wear Rolex but were too cool to show it. In 2014, with an electric blue dial coated with Zirconium, the Z-blue made a splash at Baselworld 2014. It lived for less than a decade but it lived for greatness. 

Today's Rolex's blue Parachrom hairspring makes any Rolex more anti-magnetic than the Milgauss. The technology in watchmaking has improved. We no longer make a watch anti-magnetic by protecting the movement with a soft iron cage, but by improving the materials that make up the movement. 

As Rolex battles supply shortages, it decided to streamline the production. It made sense to discontinue the heavy case, the old 3131 movement. No word on when or if it will be back. 

In memoriam, check out the dozens of awesome pictures of the Milgauss in the Rolex Magazine library including the complete history. 

All-New Rolex.com Is a Masterpiece & Tour de Force in Design Simplicity

 

All-New Rolex.com 

Is a Masterpiece &

Tour de Force in Design Simplicity 

Rolex's new model launches at Watches And Wonders 2023 has been pretty amazing! But there is another magnificent gem hiding in plain sight, and that is the all-new Rolex.com website, which is an absolute masterpiece of design simplicity. Rolex.com has ALWAYS been one of the great websites, but this brand-spanking new model is a true work of art!!!!!

The screen grab pictured above is from the all-new Rolex.com, and the newly designed header below is a magnificent exercise in simplicity, making it amazingly simple to instantly navigate to anything in the world of Rolex!!!—almost like an iPhone in the sense you instantly know how to find everything right away, —with zero learning curve. I would go so far as to say it's more Rolexy than ever...including that beautiful new green gradient header with the gold Rolex logo. Don't take my word for it: Head over to the new Rolex.com and see for yourself!!!

Sometimes when I am writing a story a song pops into my head that seems like a perfect soundtrack for the post, and this great song named 'Soulful Strut' by Young-Holt Unlimited from 1968 seems to perfectly compliment and epitomize not only this story, but the way I feel about the entire Rolex 2023 Watches And Wonders launch!!! Enjoy this superb song and let it be your anthem for W&W 2023!!!

Rolex Introduces a New Titanium Submariner Yacht-Master Model!!!

 

"A Submariner by any other name would smell as sweet." 

—William Shakespeare ;-)

[Romeo & Juliet]

Photo credit Clément Entretemps

Rolex Introduces a New Titanium 

Submariner Yacht-Master Model!!!

Rolex just introduced a new Submariner, I mean a Yacht-Master made entirely out of Titanium. Let me be specific. In my original story titled The Complete History of the Rolex Yacht-Master I told the story of how Rolex set out to modernize the Submariner when they created their first Yacht-Master, but they renamed it as the Yacht-Master since they did not want to disrupt the design language of the classic Submariner which has been their bread and butter for may decades. Rolex put a plantium bead-blasted dial with a matching platinum bezel insert to throw everybody off, but other than those two features, the watch was basically identical to a Submariner. Of course, I would be remiss if I did not point that the Yacht-Master, just like all the SEA-DWELLER models are aquatic Submariner variants...

Well guess what!?!! Rolex just inched the Yacht-Master that must closer to being a hyper-modern Submariner as it now features a black dial and bezel with a non-polished Oyster bracelet. In other words, the Yacht-Master now features everything Rolex could do to modernize the Submariner, including a 42MM case, while leaving their classic Submariner alone, not to mention the significant weight loss from Stainless Steel to Titanium. 

If you take a close look at the photo above, it's like Rolex is knocking itself off. As we see in the photo below the all new Titanium Yacht-Master features a wider Oyster Bracelet which does not taper as much as a Submariner clasp, while incorporating a satin brushed finish, which definitely makes it a very cool new tool watch. I predict this is going to be the HOT new model that is going to be really difficult to get, and is kind of another link in the daisy-chain friendly competition between Rolex and the Apple Ultra...

Of course we predicted this 42MM Titanium Yacht-Master model earlier this year, but it is great to finally see it in the flesh, and of course a special shout-out to our eagle eyed Captain Danny!!! Below is a photo of Sir Ben rocking his prototype Titanium Yacht-Master he was testing for Rolex a few years ago...

Sir Ben Ainslie rocking his Titanium Yacht-Master

Juliet:

O Romeo, Romeo! wherefore art thou Romeo?

Deny thy father and refuse thy name;

Or, if thou wilt not, be but sworn my love,

And I'll no longer be a Capulet.

Romeo:

[Aside] Shall I hear more, or shall I speak at this?

Juliet:

'Tis but thy name that is my enemy;

Thou art thyself, though not a Montague.

What's Montague? It is nor hand, nor foot,

Nor arm, nor face, nor any other part

Belonging to a man. O, be some other name!

What's in a name? That which we call a rose

By any other name would smell as sweet;

So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd,

Retain that dear perfection which he owes

Without that title. Romeo, doff thy name,

And for that name which is no part of thee

Take all myself.

Romeo:

I take thee at thy word:

Call me but love, and I'll be new baptized;

Henceforth I never will be Romeo.

From Act II, Scene II of William Shakespeare's love story of Romeo and Juliet.

Return of the Rolex Exhibition Caseback

 

Return of the Rolex Exhibition Caseback

After 93 years, Rolex FINALLY brought back, or introduced, a model with an exhibition caseback—kind of! There are a bunch of cool surprises from Rolex this year at Watches And Wonders in Geneva, Switzerland, and over the course of the next week I will be commenting on ALL them

I will share my single most favorite, which is the fact Rolex FINALLY introduced a model with an exhibition caseback!!! Hopefully this will become a standard feature or option available for every Rolex model in the future...The 60th anniversary Platinum Daytona (so far) is the only model to feature this exhibition caseback. 

It's interesting to note that Rolex in the past refrained from putting clear sapphire exhibition casebooks on their watches as they thought Rolex movements were workhorses that were not that pretty. Many people, including myself disagreed with this notion and think Rolex movements are absolute works of high-art!!!

1931 Rolex Exhibition Caseback

Below is photo of the first and ONLY exhibition caseback Rolex ever made in the past and it was placed on the first Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and this one was made in 1931, but was NOT available to the public for sale. I might be wrong, but I don't recall seeing a watch with an exhibition caseback before Rolex?

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual pictured above and below was made in 1931 and Rolex put an exhibition case back on it to easily show potential customers how it worked. As you can see in the photo above there is a rotor that says "Rolex Auto Rotor" which automatically spins clockwise or counter-clockwise just from the movement of your wrist, thus "Automatically" winding the mainspring. 

In other words, even the slightest movement of your wrist (using gravity) will wind the watch, thus keeping the mainspring at optimum tension. Rolex, of course, was the first watch brand to successfully launch an automatic movement that worked well and transcended obsolescence.

Rolex Perpetual 1908

 ...ROLEX 1908...

A TRADEMARK

PROVIDES A CLUE

By Danny Crivello

Rolex quietly filed on March 14, a trademark, which would go undetected by all: Perpetual 1908. 

1908 is an important date in Rolex history. It is the year the trademark "Rolex" was registered. 

Decades later, in 1946, Hans Wilsdorf added the following remarks regarding the registration of today's most prestigious brand in the world.

"I, H. Wilsdorf, hereby declare and certify that I have personally coined the word ROLEX in London, in the year 1908, as a trademark for our watches. Its first registration appeared on July 2nd, 1908, in the Official Swiss Register of Trade, as reproduced below."

Trademarks are not like patents. To be sure, a company like Rolex can file trademarks it has no plan to use. But it won't help the watchmaker much in a way of defending them. Some jurisdictions in Switzerland even require the filer to provide proof of use upon registration. So what to make of "Perpetual 1908"?

We expect a collection that taps into the roots of Rolex. When Jean-Frederic Dufour took the reins of LVMH-owned brand Zenith, in 2011, he helped move the company away from the flamboyant, modernist designs for which Zenith had become known prior to Mr. Dufour's arrival and returned the brand to its historic roots with the rerelease of its highly complicated flagship collection based on the El Primero chronograph and the Montre d'Aéronef Type 20. 

"He was able to reconnect the brand to its roots," said Jean-Claude Biver when summarizing Mr. Dufour's tenure as a CEO of Zenith.

The recent trademark filing of "1908" is telling us something historic, classic is coming. Something Mr. Dufour is really good at: celebrating and honoring the history of a legendary brand like century-old Rolex. And for us, this trademark filing is a lot more exciting than fake photochopped pictures on Instagram!

Watches and Wonders 2023: Rolex Teaser Dropped

...Watches and Wonders 2023...

NEW ROLEX

TEASER

Rolex Drops 20-second Video

The question on every Rolex fan's lips is what will the brand reveal when it trumpets its 2023 lineup Monday at 8:30 CET in Geneva. But the 20-second clip Rolex released today says it will have something for us "from the slightest detail to the greatest inspiration."

PLAY-BY-PLAY ANALYSIS

EXPLORER 

The key to these teasers is to always look at the environment. The first watch we see has a smooth bezel and an Arabic "6" marker, and the environment is cave-like with crystals. It's interesting to see that Rolex might be releasing a new Explorer just two years after it released the 36mm Explorer which came in steel and also two-tone. Moreover, the bracelet doesn't look like a steel Oyster bracelet. Could it be an Explorer on Oysterflex? Let's do a slow-mo, back and forth, back and forth. It is hard to tell, but if it is an Oysterflex then the Explorer will be in full precious metal.

YACHT-MASTER

The second watch we are treated to (below) has raised numerals on its bezel which means a Yacht-Master. But the watch is not sporting an Oysterflex. Instead the case, case flank and bracelet seem brushed. Is this an Oystersteel bracelet or are we seeing the titanium Yacht-Master first spotted on Ben Ainslie's wrist? Notice also the beveled lugs on the case. Beveled lugs were brought back with the Deepsea Challenge last November.

GMT-MASTER II

The watch below is another professional model. The GMT hand is barely perceptible but it's there. If it's a yellow-gold GMT then it would be a first in the 1267XX line. But if it's a rose-gold GMT, it begs the question: What is so different about a rose-gold GMT which we already have with the Rootbeer? Will it be equipped with a Jubilee bracelet this time, like the Rootbeer of yore? More radical still: Was the GMT case redesigned to resemble the one of a Submariner 41, with finer lugs?

OYSTER PERPETUAL

For less than a second, Rolex shows us the bottom half of a watch with a brushed Oyster bracelet. But if we look at its shadow, we can see two things: A crown on the left. And no crown guard. The OP and Explorer are the only two Rolex watches with both a brushed Oyster bracelet and no crown guard in the collection. 

DAYTONA

 

In the second half of the teaser, we can't miss the road markings, the racetrack and two race cars. That means a new Daytona. But no part of the Daytona is being teased... unless it is one of the color dials we see in the teaser video. (On that dial, it's unclear if the second hand at 12 o'clock is actually a chrono hand; more on that later.) Notice also that the racetrack is ice-blue.

SKY-DWELLER

Is the hand below a second hand or a chrono hand? Hard to tell. Though based on the racetrack above we will see a new Daytona, I don't think the dark-teal dial below is the one of a Daytona simply because of the marker at 11 o'clock. The marker is completely rectangular while the one of a Daytona is pointed at the bottom.

So let's take a look at another option: The 11 o'clock index appears, at least at this angle, to be unusually close to the "R" of "Rolex", coming down almost halfway through the "R". This is typical of a Sky-Dweller dial which sports oversized indices. Please see a picture of a Sky-Dweller here to compare.

DAY-DATE

For the dial below, with the orange color, I believe we are entering into dress-watch territory. Look at the curve just above the coronet. It doesn't look like a bezel or rehaut; but rather, a day window. After all, Rolex admonishes us to be ready for the "greatest detail" just before showing us this amazing dial.

CELLINI

Speaking of dress watches, the coin-edge bezel and gold crown are typical of the Cellini line. The Cellini is still using a 31XX movement so we might expect an update on this one. Currently, there is only one Cellini in the collection: the Cellini Moonphase. 

With the slow-mo we can see on the right side of the dial almost the shape of a star reminiscing of the star dials of the old Rolex 6062.

danny@rolexmagazine.com

Platinum Rolex Yacht-Master Bezel

 

...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Platinum Rolex Yacht-Master Bezel

Radical Rolex Design Language