A Second Bao Dai Rolex Surfaces
The Submariner Discovery in Cannes
In the annals of horological history, Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, remains a towering figure, his name synonymous with one of the most celebrated Rolexes ever made: the diamond-encrusted Reference 6062 triple date moonphase.
But a striking new discovery by historian Nick Gould has unveiled a second Rolex in the emperor’s collection—a Rolex Submariner—captured in a photograph from either 1953 or 1955 in Cannes, France. This image, taken during Bao Dai’s exile, reveals a lesser-known side of the emperor and adds a fresh chapter to the legacy of both the man and the brand. The photo is dated from 1953 and was taken by Edward Quinn.
The Discovery: A Submariner in Exile
Nick Gould’s find—a photograph of Bao Dai wearing a Rolex Submariner—offers a rare glimpse into the emperor’s life on the French Riviera. Dated to either 1953 or 1955, the image shows Bao Dai in a casual setting, the Submariner worn on his left his wrist on an Oyster Bracelet, accompanied by a video from the same period, this evidence places the emperor in Cannes, far from the imperial splendor of his past. Yet, a debate lingers: the photographer’s website hints at 1953, aligning with the Submariner’s debut year. Whether 1953 or 1955, the discovery cements Bao Dai’s connection to another Rolex icon.
Bao Dai: From Throne to Riviera
Born in 1913, Bao Dai ascended to Vietnam’s throne at age 12, ruling under French colonial oversight until his deposition in 1945. By the 1950s, he was in exile in France, trading palaces for a life of leisure along the Côte d’Azur.
Known for his love of luxury—yachts, cars, and fine timepieces—Bao Dai’s taste is epitomized by the Reference 6062, a moonphase marvel with diamond markers that fetched $5.1 million at auction in 2017.
The photo above is from John Goldberger's book, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, and shows the Boa Dai in a photo taken many years ago.
The Submariner: A New Rolex Legend
Yet the Submariner tells a different story: a shift toward practicality, a watch suited to a man adapting to a new reality. Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was a game-changer—a dive watch built for utility with its water-resistant case and luminous dial. By 1955, it was gaining momentum as a symbol of rugged elegance.
Bao Dai’s Submariner, though its exact reference (perhaps a 6204 or 6205) remains unclear due to the photo’s limitations, underscores the watch’s early appeal. From its launch, the Submariner transcended its tool-watch origins, catching the eye of an emperor in exile.
Two Watches, Two Worlds
The contrast between Bao Dai’s Rolexes is striking. The Reference 6062, with its black dial and opulent design, reflects his imperial past—a relic of extravagance. The Submariner, rugged and restrained, mirrors his life in Cannes: a blend of sophistication and simplicity. Together, they showcase Bao Dai’s nuanced relationship with Rolex, spanning the spectrum from lavish to utilitarian.
A Legacy Enhanced
This discovery elevates the Submariner’s origin story, linking it to a figure of historical heft. Whether the photo dates to 1953, making Bao Dai an early adopter, or 1955, as the video suggests, it captures a moment of transition—for the emperor and the watch. For Rolex aficionados, this is a revelation, proving that even in exile, Bao Dai’s wrist remained a showcase for the brand’s finest creations.
A Timeless Tale
The Submariner on Bao Dai’s wrist is more than a footnote—it’s a testament to Rolex’s enduring allure. From the depths of the sea to the shores of Cannes, its journey began with pioneers like Bao Dai, whose discerning eye helped shape its legend. As horological history unfolds, discoveries like this remind us: the past always has more to reveal.
Update: Nick Gould emailed the archive and they said according to their records the photo was taking in 1953, which certainly makes things more interesting...
