Sunday, October 21, 2012

Inside Rolex, Rolex Manufacturing Facility in Bienne, Switzerland


Inside Rolex

Brand-New Rolex Manufacturing 
Facility in Bienne, Switzerland Inaugurated

Rolex is one of the most secretive, successful and most recognized brands in the world. Earlier this week Rolex did something very unusual. 

Rolex opened up the doors to showcase a set of new Rolex movement manufacturing buildings in Bienne, Switzerland, so I thought I would take you on a tour of the new facility, but first I thought I would begin with an overview of all the major Rolex buildings in Switzerland.


Rolex World Headquarters

Geneva, Switzerland

Today, Rolex is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland but this was not always so. As a matter of fact, Hans Wilsdorf founded Rolex headquarters in London, England in 1908, and moved it to Geneva in 1919. 

Rolex headquarters is the epicenter of all things Rolex. This Rolex facility houses all the senior executives, as well as the international marketing department, and the Rolex R&D design center.


Rolex Headquarters today in Geneva Switzerland



Rolex Plan-Les-Site

Geneva, Switzerland
Rolex Foundry, Case & Bracelet Making Facility

Today, Rolex is a vertically integrated company, which means they produce and manufacture 100% of the components used in their watches. Rolex is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, but has facilities located all over Switzerland. 


The photo above shows the Rolex Plan-Les-Quates facility which contains the Rolex foundry where Rolex melts gold, platinum and steel to use in the production of their watches. The photo below shows liquified gold being poured at the Rolex foundry. 

Rolex Plan-Les-Quates site today in Geneva Switzerland



Rolex also builds and assembles Oyster cases and bracelets at the Plan-Les-Quates facility.






Rolex Dial and Bezel Facility

Chêne-Bourg, Switzerland


The Rolex facility in Chêne-Bourg, Switzerland specializes in dial making as well as making watch hands, bezels and crystals. 




Rolex watch cases and bracelets, as well as all parts are made with CNC machines, but all parts are still hand assembled by Rolex trained master watchmakers.



The Rolex facility in Chêne-Bourg workshops also specialize is inserting precious stones onto dials and on bezels as seen below.







Rolex Movement Making Facility

Bienne, Switzerland

This last week, Rolex completed a new manufacturing facility in Bienne, Switzerland that specializes in making all movements for their watches. 

Rolex cases, bracelets and dials have always been made in Geneva, Switzerland, as well as final assembly. Rolex movements have always been made in Bienne, Switzerland. The founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf wrote in his memoirs:

"We want to leave to our factory in Bienne exclusively the production of watch movements, while we ourselves create in Geneva, case models adapted to the refined taste of the Genevans."

Many years ago, Hans Wilsdorf made a partial investment in Aegler, and in 2004 Rolex completely bought-out the Aegeler/Borer family to obtain 100% ownership in Aegler S.A. For more than a century Rolex made all movements in Bienne, and then transported them to Geneva for installation into the final casing.

Rolex is one of the most secretive companies in the world, and today we are in for a real treat, because for the first time in history, Rolex is giving us a glimpse of their world-class facility where all their watch movements are made.

The first photo below shows the extension of the new Rolex manufacturing facility in Bienne, Switzerland, which now consists of over 250,000 cubic meters of space. 



Rolex Building 7 Just Completed in 2012 pictured above


All movement parts, from hairsprings to mainplates, are made in Bienne. Rolex does not publish their annual production output, but it is estimated approximately 2000 employees produce 50 million movement components annually–which end up in more than 750,000 Rolex automatic movements assembled per year in Bienne. 

[Note: How do we know that Rolex produces more than 750,000 movements annually, if Rolex is a privately-held company that does not publish such numbers? Because the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, is required to publish the exact number of movement (COSC) certificates for each brand, and in 2011, they published Rolex figures at 751,000 COSC movements.]

Before the movements are installed into Rolex cases in Geneva, they first travel to the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, where they are tested for Swiss Chronometer accuracy, and assuming they pass, are award the prestigious  C.O.S.C. certification.

This next photo shows the entire Rolex campus located in Bienne, Switzerland, in an industrial section, known as Champs-de-Boujean, with the Jura mountain range seen in the background.


Before we examine the all new extension, let's take a trip back in time to learn about the history of Rolex movement making in Bienne, Switzerland.


Hans Wilsdorf

Founder of Rolex

Hans Wilsdorf (pictured below) founded Rolex in 1908 in London, England. If you are not familiar with The Hans Wilsdorf Story, you are in for a real treat.




Hans Hilsdorf, Founder of Rolex pictured above in 1905

Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex originally partnered with Aegler (in 1905). Aegler S.A. was located in Bienne, Switzerland, which specialized in making high-quality watch movements. Jean Aegler, founder of Aegler S.A. is pictured below. He passed away in 1891, at which time his son Hermann Aegler took over the family business.


Jean Aegler, Founder of Aegler S.A. is pictured above




Aegler S.A. original movement making headquarters were erected in 1878 and located in Bienne, Switzerland on a hillside that overlooked Bienne's Old Town. The old Aegler manufacturing facility is pictured below in this 1955 photo. 

Notice the Rolex signs on the two buildings pictured on the right side of the photos below. The Rolex extension was erected in 1914 by Hermann Aegler. Today these buildings are are officially a Bienne landmark, which represents a significant chapter of Bienne's watchmaking history.


The Aegler/Rolex Bienne Factory is picture above in 1955


Aegler S.A. was founded in 1878 by Jean and Anna Maria Aegler at a time when Bienne was becoming a significant watchmaking capital. 

The Aegler/Rolex Bienne Factory is picture above in 1955



Aegler was renowned for making very precise, small watch movements, which is exactly what Hans Wildforf was looking for to place into his Rolex wrist watches. 

In the photo below we see a Rolex draftsmen in 1955 at the Aegler facility working on designing the first true "in-house" Rolex movement, known as the Caliber 1500, which was formally introduced in 1957. 

The Rolex Caliber 1500 ended up being a work horse movement and was used by Rolex in watches up until 1990. It is fascinating to see that the draftsman had to stand up and draw a movement. The Rolex Caliber 1500 was the first Rolex movement that instantly changed the date. Rolex began replacing the Caliber 1500 in 1977 with the Caliber 3035. The Caliber 3135 Rolex movement eventually began replacing the Caliber 3035 in 1988.

The Aegler/Rolex Bienne Factory is picture above in 1955

For many decades, Aegler grew as Rolex grew and they continued as the primary supplier for Rolex movements. This next rare vintage photo shows Aegler watchmakers making Rolex movements in the Aegler facility in Bienne, Switzeraland. 

The Aegler/Rolex Bienne Factory is picture above in 1955



The Rolex Oyster Perpetual
The First Waterproof Self-Winding Watch

The Development of the Rolex Oyster in 1926 was an incredible horological achievement, but the challenge was it made it more difficult to manually wind the watch because you had to unscrew it first, then wind it, then re-screw the Oyster crown. 

After Hans Wilsdorf successfully brought the Rolex Oyster to market, he turned his attention to the other Achilles' heel of wrist-watches, and that was the lack of their ability to self-wind themselves.

Inventing the automatic, or perhaps auto-magic, wristwatch which could wind itself represented the dream of the ages in the horological world. For centuries, many famous watchmakers tried to perfect the automatic or self-winding watch, but none were successful. 

This fascinating Rolex ad from the 1950s tells the story about how Rolex's brilliant chief technical director, M. Emile (Emil) Borer figured out how to perfect Abraham-Louis Perrelet's self-winding watch he invented centuries prior in 1770.


Emile Borer
Chief Technical Director
Aegler Workshop. Beil, Switzerland
1898-1967

Emile Borer, (pictured below) the Chief Technical Director of Rolex was mentioned in the ad above, as having been the person at Rolex who is credited with figuring out how to make the automatic movement work correctly by inventing and perfecting the modern rotor system.

Emile was the son-in-law of Jean Aegler. Jean Aegler was the founder of Aegler Workshop, who provided Rolex with all their movements. Emile Borer joined Aegler Workshop as an engineer during World War I, and he soon become responsible for developing new technology. In 1944, Emile Borer became the General Manager of the Aegler Workshop, which remained the primary supplier of Rolex movements until Rolex purchased Aegler Workshop in 2004.


In 1931 Rolex patented the Perpetual rotor which automatically wound the watch, thus eliminating the need to ever wind it again!!! This not only made it more convenient but also more accurate because the wrist watch would never stop automatically winding itself, so long as you wore it.

For those too young to remember, manual-wind wrist watches, required you wind them daily which was an inconvenience for most people, although some people, like train conductors liked it ;-))))))


The watch pictured pictured above and below was made in 1931, and Rolex put an exhibition caseback on it to easily show potential consumers how it worked. 


As you can see in the photo below there is a rotor that says "Rolex Auto Rotor" which automatically spins clockwise or counter-clockwise just from the movement of your wrist, thus "Automatically" winding the mainspring. In other words, even the slightest movement of your wrist (using gravity) will wind the watch, thus keeping the mainspring at optimum tension.

Rolex based the design of their perpetual rotor system on one that Abraham Louis Perelet developed in 1770, and in the years before Rolex perfected their methodology, there was a company named Harwood that created a self-winding rotor system that only moved clockwise, but had many challenges.





By creating an auto-winding or self-winding wristwatch, Rolex once again revolutionized the watch–and again, Rolex was not the first to explore creating a self-winding watch, but Hans Wilsdorf and Rolex were the first to perfect it, patent, and mass market it successfully.

The patent on the Rolex perpetual eventually ran out in 1948 at which time everybody was free to develop their own automatic rotor systems that used gravity to wind their movements–and they did...


Rolex Movement Making Facility

Bienne, Switzerland

Earlier this week, Rolex showcased their all-new expansion to the press.

Here is a fascinating video tour or the new Rolex movement factory located in Bienne, Switzerland. The Journal has a fascinating article about the all-new Rolex movement factory



This following photos were all taken on site at Rolex's all-new Building 7 located in Bienne, Switzerland where all the Rolex movements are made.




This all-new structure began construction in 2009. It was designed to be extremely efficient and comfortable. The two photos below show how the skylights flood the building with natural light all-day long.


This next photo (below) shows a super, state-of-the-art robotized storage system, which allows Rolex to store and later recall watch movement parts.


Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Felix Baumgartner Sets World Record 24 Mile Jump From Space


Felix Baumgartner Sets World Record

Skydiver Breaks Sound Barrier
24 Mile Jump From Space

Felix Baumgartner just became the first free-falling human being to break the sound barrier, by leaping from the stratosphere high above New Mexico, from a balloon-lifed capsule. 

In doing so he set an all new world record by becoming the first man to jump to earth from high up in the earth's stratosphere at 24 miles up, and he actually flew or moved faster than the speed of sound. He did this on the 65th anniversary of Chuck Yeager's original Speed Of Sound Record.


Felix's mom is pictured below as she looks up at her son as he is attempting to set his world record. A few readers sent in this image pointing out it appears she is wearing a ladies Rolex. Definitely looks like an Oyster bracelet to me.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Rolex Big Boat Series


Rolex Big Boat Series
Sailing San Francisco Bay

San Francisco is in the middle of hosting the America's Cup Sailing Tournament, and Sailing on San Francisco Bay offer some to the best sailing conditions and views on earth.

The Rolex Big Boat Series also takes place annually on San Francisco Bay. The Big Boat Series was established in San Francisco in 1964, and has taken place annually every year since. Rolex became the title sponsor of the Big Boat Series in 2005.  Here is a video from the 2011 series.

Sunday, October 07, 2012

America's Cup Final Race



America's Cup Final Race
October 7, 2012


I live in San Francisco, and the 2012 America's Cup took place practically in my backyard!!! I just put up some photos from today's final event, which included the U.S. Navy Blue Angels on Jake's Streets Of San Francisco World.




Here are some vintage Rolex America's Cup Ads:

1969 Rolex America's Cup Submariner Ad
The Rolex Submariner is "A Big Tough Watch"
Single Red Submariner [Reference 1680]




1977 Rolex America's Cup
Submariner Ad

Friday, October 05, 2012

For The Love of Chocolate Gilt Reference 5513


...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Tropical Chocolate Gilt Craving
Reference 5513

This is a stunning example of a Chocolate Rolex Submariner with a beautifully aged tropical gilt dial. This watch was recently auctioned by Antiquorum on May 13, 2012 in Geneva, Switzerland.


Thursday, October 04, 2012

Rolex Hotness: Elizabeth Hurley...


Rolex Hotness: Elizabeth Hurley
Yellow Gold Rolex Day-Date on an Oyster Bracelet


Monday, October 01, 2012

Thor Heyerdahl 1980 Rolex Pepsi GMT Ad...


Thor Heyerdahl
1980 Rolex Pepsi GMT Ad
[Reference 1675]

Sunday, September 23, 2012

The Complete History Of The Rolex President [Part 17]




Part 17

The Complete History Of The Rolex President

Origins Of "The Rolex President" Watch Name

Part 11 of The History Of The Rolex President series, focuses on exploring origin of the term The Rolex President, and part 12 will focus on the evolution of the Rolex Day-Date models.




The Rolex President
U.S. President Lyndon Johnson
Yellow Gold Rolex Day-Date
White House Oval Office
Washington D.C. 1965


Have you ever wondered where the term The Rolex President came from? It has taken me many years to finally solve the mystery of how, when and where exactly the name The Rolex President came from. The Rolex President Watch for many decades has symbolized and been equated with being The International Mark Of Success and Achievement.

Rolex marketing, in the United States has always been handled through the adroit marketing firm of J.Walter Thompson. In 1966, J. Walter Thompson came up with the Rolex magazine ad pictured below, which ran in the United States.


1966 Rolex President's Watch Ad
The Presidents' Watch

It is amazing when you think about it, how remarkably timeless this vintage 1966 Rolex Day-Date ad is. It features a wrist shot of a man wearing a yellow gold Day-Date holding a red phone in his hand. Kind of reminds me of Commissioner Gordon talking on the red Batphone ;-) 

It is interesting to note, in this 1966 Rolex Day-Date watch ad, how the title says "The presidents' watch." This of course, is referring to then elected, U.S. President, Lyndon Johnson. This moment in Rolex history represented a high-water-mark–having the sitting U.S. President wearing Rolex's flagship watch model.





Men Who Guide The Destinies Of The World Wear Rolex Watches
Magazine ad from the mid 1960s

I think I love vintage Rolex magazine ads as much as I love vintage Rolex watches. Historically, Rolex tends to run themed ads for long periods of time, and one of the most remarkable is the "Men Who Guide The Destinies Of The World Wear Rolex Watches" which ran from 1956, during the Dwight Eisenhower Presidential administration, through the Lyndon Johnson administration. 

This particular magazine ad ads another dimension or piece of the puzzle to The Complete History Of The Rolex President. In particular, it is fascinating to see how much Rolex went out of their way to prove themselves 50 years ago. Today, Rolex has little to prove, since they have successfully become the international mark of success, but learning how Rolex achieved this is just fascinating.



I scanned and restored this vintage Rolex ad, but the page had no date on it. So how do I know it is from the mid 1960s? For one, the Rolex Day-Date pictured is a more modern model, and in the description under the photo, Rolex refers to the "President bracelet, designed by Rolex for the Day-Date." To the best of my knowledge, Rolex first began referring to the the Day-Date bracelet in 1965, which was a year after U.S. President, Lyndon Johnson began wearing what became his trademark yellow gold Rolex.

It's profoundly ironic, how in this ad, which was published around the time I was born, Rolex talks about how famous people you see everyday wear Rolex, and suggest that next time you see them, you should look to see if they are wearing a Rolex. Why is this ironic? Because I have been doing this now for almost 5 years straight, on Jake's Rolex World, and that is really one of the main signature features of Jake's Rolex World Blog, is that I find and showcase photos of famous, successful people wearing their Rolex watches ;-)


Another Red Phone


Speaking of Rolex ads with men wearing a Rolex Day-Date with a Red telephone in their office, if you scroll down the page to the Mark McCormack Rolex ad from 1986, you will notice he also has a Red phone, except his is push button instead of a dial phone like the one in the picture below.

A supreme irony is that if Rolex made this ad today the man in the ad would have an iPhone 4s in his hand. Part of the irony in this is that in the last 45 years since this ad was published, telephone technology has changed radically, and Rolex still makes this exact same model, and it looks identical–talk about timeless design!!!

The 1966 Rolex Day-Date ad above has a headline that reads "The presidents' watch." In 1965, just after U.S. President Lyndon Johnson had a gaul-bladder operation, he emerged and showed the press his scars, and there he was wearing his now trademark yellow gold Rolex Day-Date and he wore it very proudly.





Lyndon Johnson was the second U.S. President to wear a modern Rolex, and the first to wear a Day-Date, with a Rolex "President" bracelet.


1984 Rolex President Ad
Rolex Coolness: Mark McCormack
Another Rolex Myth Busted And Mystery Solved!!!


This is the quintessential 1980s Rolex ad. In 1986 Ronald Reagan was the President of the United States and Rolex was reaching new heights in status and popularity.

This cool vintage Rolex ad has a very interesting detail. One of the unanswered Rolex folklore questions (until today) always was:

Where did the term The Rolex President come from?




It has always been put forth that Rolex began referring to the bracelet on the Rolex Day-Date, as "The President" bracelet (around 1966) but never referred to the the actual Day-Date as The Rolex President. It was believed that people just started refering to the Rolex Day-Date as The President, but that Rolex never specifically referred to it as such.

It turns out that was a false myth and for the first time, as early as 1984 we have direct evidence of Rolex specifically referring to a watch model named:

"The Rolex President Day-Date Chronometer. Available in 18kt. gold, with matching bracelet."

This ad was very popular in the 1980s and I believe it clearly proves it was indeed Rolex that specifically coined the term: The Rolex President.

Wow!!!!! Rolex appears to have briefly referred to the watch as The Rolex President, then they stopped, and went back to calling it just The Day-Date, but the term "The Rolex President" stuck, and once the cat was out of the bag, that was it!!!!! Another fascinating Rolex mystery solved!!!!!!







THE COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ROLEX PRESIDENT

Table Of Contents




Saturday, September 22, 2012

Leon's GMT-Master from Germany...


...Rolex Studio Shot Of The Day...

Leon's GMT-Master from Germany

Leon from Germany took this amazing photo of his Rolex GMT-Master and sent it in with this email:

Hey Jake,

I am a huge fan of your Jake's Rolex World blog and read it almost daily.

I was just working my way through some paperwork and I saw this reflection on the side of my GMTIIC and wanted to share it with you.

Hope you like it as much as I do.

Best regards from Hamburg, Germany,

Leon




Millionaire, Billionaire, Zillionaire

I have no idea why, but of some reason when I look at Leon's amazing photo, the 1980s ABC song, "How To Be A Millionare" starts playing in my head!?!? 

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Waikiki Submariner Sunset Sailing


Waikiki Submariner Sunset Sailing

My girlfriend and I were on vacation in Hawaii, and we spent some time surfing on Waikiki beach in Honolulu, which is the home of surfing, and the original Beach Boys. There is something really cool about wearing a Submariner while you are surfing. I remember every once and I while I would look down at my Submariner, and it was just so cool looking...

I took this photo of my favorite Rolex, which is an original LV Submariner, while sailing around Waikiki Beach on Oahu Island in Hawaii as the sun was setting over the Pacific Ocean. I remember when I took this photo, thinking it was really cool how the green on the LV bezel looked similar to the glass buildings in the background.



The 7 Up Submariner

For some reason, I was just talking with my girlfriend on the phone, and I said "Tell me about your childhood?" She asked me what I was talking about? I mentioned I was imitating the 7up commercial dude from the 1970s. Of course that made visit YouTube to find the commercial, and for those of you old enough to remember Geoffrey Holder who was the face of 7up in the 70s and 80s, all I have to say is "7up is the Uncola!!!! Ah, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha.!!!!" 



BTW Geoffrey Holder played Baron Samedi, the voodoo guru in the James Bond film, Live and Let Die, with Roger Moore playing 007.




Come to think of it, Geoffrey Holder kind of laughs like the Count from Sesame Street!?!? I Googled "Tell me about your childhood" and realized in was also in the opening line to the song "Hyperactive" by Thomas Dolby.