Is it too early to guess at what Rolex will be introducing at Watches and Wonders in Geneva of 2025, which begins on April 1st? I genuinely have no idea of what Rolex will surprise us with, but I do have some ideas would LOVE to see, or that I can imagine Rolex introducing.
First, let's begin with Obie's photo below of his original GMT Master model—which went on sale in late 1956 and featured a bakelite bezel insert that would glow in the dark, and some of them still do, as seen with in the lume-shot below. I would love to see Rolex bring back the lumen Bezel Insert on the GMT-Master...
The photo below is of a 1955 Rolex GMT-Master in all-original condition. Notice the red "GMT-MASTER" dial designation as well as the red date!
My second guess, or hope, would be the return of the Coke Rolex GMT-Master with a Black and Red bezel insert, which might looks something like this:
The Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race is renowned as one of the sport’s greatest challenges. In the 79th edition, competing crews were confronted with myriad challenges and variable weather conditions.
A race marked by tragedy united the sailing community and was a showcase of human endeavour and teamwork. Celestial V70 claimed the Tattersall Cup as overall race winner while the Christian Beck-skippered maxi LawConnect took line honours for the second year in a row, completing the 628-nautical mile course down Australia’s south-east coast in 1 day, 13 hours, 35 minutes and 13 seconds.
Organized by the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia (CYCA), in conjunction with the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania, Rolex has partnered this offshore classic since 2002 as part of the brand’s near 70-year relationship with yachting.
Below is a map that shows the Sydney to Hobart Yacht race route.
But a striking new discovery by historian Nick Gould has unveiled a second Rolex in the emperor’s collection—a Rolex Submariner—captured in a photograph from either 1953 or 1955 in Cannes, France. This image, taken during Bao Dai’s exile, reveals a lesser-known side of the emperor and adds a fresh chapter to the legacy of both the man and the brand. The photo is dated from 1953 and was taken by Edward Quinn.
The Discovery: A Submariner in Exile
Nick Gould’s find—a photograph of Bao Dai wearing a Rolex Submariner—offers a rare glimpse into the emperor’s life on the French Riviera. Dated to either 1953 or 1955, the image shows Bao Dai in a casual setting, the Submariner worn on his left his wrist on an Oyster Bracelet, accompanied by a video from the same period, this evidence places the emperor in Cannes, far from the imperial splendor of his past. Yet, a debate lingers: the photographer’s website hints at 1953, aligning with the Submariner’s debut year. Whether 1953 or 1955, the discovery cements Bao Dai’s connection to another Rolex icon.
Bao Dai: From Throne to Riviera
Born in 1913, Bao Dai ascended to Vietnam’s throne at age 12, ruling under French colonial oversight until his deposition in 1945. By the 1950s, he was in exile in France, trading palaces for a life of leisure along the Côte d’Azur.
Known for his love of luxury—yachts, cars, and fine timepieces—Bao Dai’s taste is epitomized by the Reference 6062, a moonphase marvel with diamond markers that fetched $5.1 million at auction in 2017.
Yet the Submariner tells a different story: a shift toward practicality, a watch suited to a man adapting to a new reality. Introduced in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was a game-changer—a dive watch built for utility with its water-resistant case and luminous dial. By 1955, it was gaining momentum as a symbol of rugged elegance.
Bao Dai’s Submariner, though its exact reference (perhaps a 6204 or 6205) remains unclear due to the photo’s limitations, underscores the watch’s early appeal. From its launch, the Submariner transcended its tool-watch origins, catching the eye of an emperor in exile.
Two Watches, Two Worlds
The contrast between Bao Dai’s Rolexes is striking. The Reference 6062, with its black dial and opulent design, reflects his imperial past—a relic of extravagance. The Submariner, rugged and restrained, mirrors his life in Cannes: a blend of sophistication and simplicity. Together, they showcase Bao Dai’s nuanced relationship with Rolex, spanning the spectrum from lavish to utilitarian.
A Legacy Enhanced
This discovery elevates the Submariner’s origin story, linking it to a figure of historical heft. Whether the photo dates to 1953, making Bao Dai an early adopter, or 1955, as the video suggests, it captures a moment of transition—for the emperor and the watch. For Rolex aficionados, this is a revelation, proving that even in exile, Bao Dai’s wrist remained a showcase for the brand’s finest creations.
A Timeless Tale
The Submariner on Bao Dai’s wrist is more than a footnote—it’s a testament to Rolex’s enduring allure. From the depths of the sea to the shores of Cannes, its journey began with pioneers like Bao Dai, whose discerning eye helped shape its legend. As horological history unfolds, discoveries like this remind us: the past always has more to reveal.
Update: Nick Gould emailed the archive and they said according to their records the photo was taking in 1953, which certainly makes things more interesting...
Imagine the moment: a velvet-lined box opens to reveal a Rolex Day-Date 36, its diamond-set green dial catching the light with a brilliance that stops time itself. Since its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has been more than a watch—it’s been a symbol of achievement, a companion to some of history’s most influential figures, and a canvas for Rolex’s relentless pursuit of perfection.
Known affectionately as the "President" watch, this iconic timepiece has now been reimagined in stunning yellow gold with a green dial that radiates both boldness and serenity. This is not just a watch—it’s a statement of artistry, innovation, and timeless elegance.
A Dial That Captivates
Green as a Statement of Bold Elegance
The star of this Day-Date 36 is its mesmerizing green dial, a hue that feels both timeless and strikingly contemporary. Picture the depth of an emerald forest or the polished surface of a rare jade stone—this green doesn’t merely sit on the dial; it draws you in, shifting subtly with the light to reveal its complexity. Adorning this vibrant backdrop are diamond hour markers, each one a tiny prism of perfection. Hand-set by Rolex’s master gemologists, these diamonds sparkle with a fire that elevates the watch from beautiful to breathtaking, creating a dance of light with every twist and turn of the wrist.
At 12 o’clock, the day window proudly spells out the day of the week in full—a signature feature that nods to the Day-Date’s global legacy, available in languages from English to Arabic. At 3 o’clock, the magnified date window, framed by the Cyclops lens, ensures clarity and practicality. Together, these elements blend form and function in a way that only Rolex can achieve, making this watch as useful as it is alluring.
Craftsmanship Beyond Compare
The Art of Diamond Setting
Rolex’s mastery of gem-setting transforms this Day-Date into a wearable jewel. The diamonds aren’t just embellishments—they’re a testament to a craft honed over decades. Each stone is chosen for its exceptional clarity and cut, then meticulously placed by artisans whose precision rivals that of the watchmakers themselves. The result? A dial that doesn’t just tell time—it tells a story of dedication and excellence, where every facet reflects Rolex’s uncompromising standards.
Encasing this masterpiece is a 36mm yellow gold case, its warm tones amplifying the dial’s vibrancy. The fluted bezel, a hallmark of the Day-Date line, catches the light with its sculpted edges, adding texture and tradition to the design. Paired with the President bracelet—its semi-circular links as comfortable as they are iconic—this watch drapes the wrist with a luxurious embrace, a reminder of Rolex’s ability to marry beauty with wearability.
A Legacy of Innovation
The Heart of the Day-Date
Beneath its elegant exterior beats the Caliber 3255, a movement that embodies Rolex’s engineering genius. Developed entirely in-house, this self-winding marvel holds 14 patents and delivers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours—enough to keep ticking through a long weekend undisturbed. Its precision, rated at -2/+2 seconds per day, exceeds the strictest chronometer standards, thanks to innovations like the blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers. Whether you’re navigating a bustling day or savoring a quiet evening, this movement ensures the Day-Date 36 performs with unflagging reliability.
The Day-Date’s story began in 1956, when Rolex unveiled the first watch to display both the day and date in full—a breakthrough that cemented its status as a pioneer. Worn by presidents, CEOs, and visionaries, it quickly became a symbol of power and prestige. Today’s green-dialed iteration builds on that legacy, proving that innovation can honor tradition while pushing boundaries.
A Timeless Icon Reimagined
The Rolex Day-Date 36 with its diamond-set green dial is a triumph of design and craftsmanship.
It’s a watch that bridges past and present, blending the heritage of the "President" with a modern palette that feels fresh yet eternal. For collectors, it’s a treasure; for wearers, it’s a companion that marks life’s greatest moments. As Rolex continues to redefine luxury, this timepiece stands as a testament to the brand’s artistry—a fusion of precision, passion, and the pursuit of the extraordinary.
Harmony of the elements. With a bezel set with 60 trapeze-cut diamonds and a vibrant green dial with 10 baguette-cut diamond hour markers, this Day-Date 36 in 18ct yellow gold exemplifies Rolex’s gem-setting expertise and exceptional design. Gold, green, and sparkle. The ultimate Rolex prestige. Rolex's MSRP on this Reference 128398TBR is $85,200.
"Photography for me is not looking, it's feeling. If you can't feel what you're looking at, then you're never going to get others to feel anything when they look at your pictures"
—Don McCullin
In the pantheon of vintage Rolex, few watches stir the soul like the Explorer II [Reference 1655]. It’s a rugged beast, born for the wild, with a design that screams purpose over polish. But what elevates this watch from mere tool to myth? Look no further than Don McCullin, the war photographer who strapped it to his wrist and plunged into the heart of history. In 1978, Rolex ran an ad featuring McCullin, his steely gaze fixed on the horizon, that orange-handed 1655 ticking away as bullets flew. That image alone cemented its legacy—and today, it’s a holy grail for collectors who chase the stories behind the steel.
Let’s unpack this. Who was Don McCullin, and why does his Explorer II still have us obsessed decades later? Grab a coffee, because this is a tale of courage, conflict, and a watch that refused to quit.
Don McCullin
The Eye of the Storm
Don McCullin didn’t stumble into greatness—he clawed his way there. Born in 1935 in London’s rough-and-tumble Finsbury Park, he grew up in a world of post-war grit. Life was no picnic, but McCullin had an eye for more than just survival. Photography found him almost by accident—snapping shots of his local gang for a laugh—until The Observer took notice in 1959. That was the spark that lit the fuse. Before long, he was on a plane to Berlin, capturing the Wall’s rise, and then to Cyprus, documenting civil unrest. The kid from the streets had become a lens on the world.
"I wanted my images to contaminate your thoughts—because they contaminated mine"
—Don McCullin
But McCullin’s real legacy was forged in war. Vietnam, Cambodia, Biafra, Beirut—he didn’t just cover conflict; he lived it. His camera caught the raw, unfiltered truth: soldiers in the mud, civilians in despair, the haunting stillness after the gunfire stopped. This wasn’t about pretty pictures; it was about bearing witness. “I’ve been in some tight spots,” he said in that 1978 Rolex ad, “but my Rolex has always come through.” And come through it did—through jungles, deserts, and urban battlegrounds, the Explorer II was his constant.
McCullin’s work earned him a shelf full of awards—World Press Photo honors, a CBE, even a knighthood in 2017. But he’d tell you the accolades don’t matter. What matters is the truth he captured, frame by frame. And on his wrist, that Reference 1655 was more than a watch—it was a companion that saw it all.
The Explorer II [Reference 1655]
A Tool for the Fearless
Now, let’s talk about the watch itself. Rolex dropped the Explorer II in 1971, and it was a different breed from the get-go. Built for adventurers—cavers, polar explorers, and yes, photographers like McCullin—it was all about surviving the extremes. The Reference 1655, with its 39mm Oyster case and that unmistakable orange 24-hour hand, was designed to tackle the unknown. That hand wasn’t just a pop of color; it was a lifeline, letting wearers track day and night in places where the sun played tricks—like the Arctic or deep underground.
The fixed steel bezel, engraved with 24-hour markers, paired with the automatic Caliber 1575 movement to make this thing a tank. Dust, water, shocks? The Explorer II laughed it off. At a time when most watches were still primping for the boardroom, this one was ready for the battlefield. And for McCullin, who often found himself ducking shrapnel, that durability was everything.
But it’s not just the toughness that makes the 1655 special—it’s the vibe. The matte black dial, the Mercedes hands, the no-nonsense steel case—it’s got a quiet swagger that doesn’t need to shout. Nicknamed the “Freccione” (Italian for “big arrow”) for that bold orange hand, it’s a watch that stands out by not trying too hard. And while some call it the “Steve McQueen” (even though he never wore one), it’s McCullin’s story that gives it real weight.
A Collector’s Grail
Why the 1655 Rules Today
Fast forward to 2023, and the Explorer II [Reference 1655] is a vintage Rolex unicorn. Why? Start with the numbers: Rolex only made about 10,000 of these from ’71 to ’85. Finding one that’s not beaten to hell—or worse, “restored” into oblivion—is a treasure hunt. But rarity’s just the half of it. This watch has soul.
Collectors lose their minds over the 1655 because it’s a time capsule. It’s not some polished-up dress watch—it’s a tool that lived hard. When you hold one, you’re holding history: the expeditions, the battles, the moments of quiet defiance. McCullin’s connection only amps that up. Knowing his Explorer II was there, strapped on as he framed shots that changed how we see war, adds a layer of provenance that’s pure catnip for watch nerds.
Then there’s the design. That orange hand pops like a flare against the black dial, and the steel bezel’s got a rugged charm that’s aged like fine whiskey. It’s not perfect—it’s better than perfect. It’s real. And in a world where vintage Rolex prices are soaring, the 1655’s mix of scarcity, style, and story has made it a heavyweight. Today, a clean example can easily fetch five figures, and if it’s got a documented past? Name your price.
McCullin and the 1655
A Bond Beyond Time
So why did McCullin pick the Explorer II? Because it didn’t flinch. In the chaos of war, you don’t need a watch that’s going to choke under pressure—you need one that’s as tough as you are. The 1655 was that watch. It didn’t care about mud or blood or heat; it just kept going. In that 1978 ad, McCullin’s words say it all: “My Rolex has always come through.” That’s not a sales pitch—that’s a battlefield truth.
For McCullin, the Explorer II wasn’t a status symbol; it was a tool, a witness to the madness he captured through his lens. And that’s what makes it resonate today. Collectors don’t just want the watch—they want the story, the grit, the legacy of a man who stared down history and clicked the shutter anyway.
A Watch That Tells More Than Time
The Rolex Explorer II [Reference 1655] isn’t just a vintage classic—it’s a monument to the fearless. Through Don McCullin’s lens, we see how it earned its stripes, ticking through the darkest corners of the 20th century. For collectors, it’s a prize worth chasing: rare, beautiful, and dripping with history. But beyond the auctions and the hype, it’s a reminder of what a watch can be—a silent partner in the pursuit of something bigger.
So here’s to McCullin, the man who showed us war’s true face, and to the Explorer II that stood by him. In a world obsessed with flash, this watch keeps it real: a rugged, orange-handed testament to adventure, survival, and the stories that time can’t erase.
Back in May of 2014, Sotheby's auctioned off a very rare 36MM Rolex Datejust which was made for the International Olympic Committee in 1988. The watch achieved an auction sale price of $24,000. I have seen these models before, and of course it is always interesting to see something so fascinating with two great 20th Century icons together. If I recall correctly, Olympic Skiing legend, Jean-Claude Killy wears this same model.
Rolex also made a Ladies International Olympic Committee Two-Tone Datejust Reference 69173 (pictured below) with a Caliber 2135 which appears below courtesy of Christie's Auction House.
The Christie's lot essay reads:
The present ladies’ two-tone Datejust is quite a special watch that was made for the 1988 Olympic Committee. The Rolex guarantee confirms this by listing the buyer as “Comite Olympiques Geneve.” Both the Summer and Winter games were held in ’88 and the Winter games were hosted in Calgary, Alberta.
The consignor of this watch purchased it from the estate of the former late Mayor of Calgary, Ralph Klein. Klein would later go on to serve as the Premier of Alberta. His wife was presented with this watch in 1988 from the Olympic Committee.
Any Rolex with a unique dial is highly sought after. In addition to having this trait, the present watch is offered as complete and has a very nice history.
The Rolex ad below from 1953 is fascinating in many ways. At the time, Rolex offered a ladies model referred to as the "Rolex Chameleon", which had a feature that allowed the user to almost instantly change the leather strap from one color to any other color. In many ways the Apple Watch which has a similar feature is reminiscent of this mid-century modern masterpiece.
Rolex offered many different versions of the Rolex Chameleon, and continued the model up through the late 1970s.
The Rolex Chameleon pictured below reminds me of an upside-down mini Reese's Peanut Butter Cup.
Bill Murray is one fascinating cat, and he recently was a guest on the Joe Rogan experience, which is a fascinating watch:
Bill Murray
Lost In Translation 2003
Stainless Rolex Datejust
Lost in Translation is a romantic comedy film staring Scarlett Johansson and Bill Murray and it is set in Tokyo. It was released in 2003 and was directed by Sofia Coppola. It you want to get lost in a great movie, I highly recommend watching Lost In Translation!
Lost in Translation won the Oscar for Best Original Screenplay at the 76th Academy Awards, and was nominated for Best Picture and Best Director (Coppola), and Best Actor (Murray). It also own three Golden Globes and 3 British Academy Film Awards.
Sofia Coppola is pictured below with her legendary director father, Francis Ford Coppola and notice Sofia is wearing a Rolex.
Bill Murray rocks his Rolex Datejust prominently throughout the movie as we see in this image below.
Since we just took a look at, a famous American writer, Hunter S. Thompson, I thought it would be fun to take a look at another famous American writer. Ernest Hemingway is arguably one of the most loved writers of the 20th Century. He won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1954 and the Nobel Committee his "mastery of the art of modern narration." Hemingway is famous for his terse and powerful prose which include titles like The Sun Also Rises (1926), For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940), as well as The Old Man & The Sea (1952).
1957 Ernest Hemingway photo by Yousuf Karsh wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Below is a photo of a similar Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31MM Bubbleback dial model to what Hemingway is wearing in the photo above. My best guess is it's a Rolex Reference 6084.
Ernest Hemingway wrote about Rolex in his book Across the River and into the Trees where he compares the accuracy of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual to that of the human heart, one of which can be repaired and the other often not. Hemingway wrote:
"It's just a muscle, 'the Colonel said.' Only it is the main muscle. It works perfectly as a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The trouble is you cannot send it to the Rolex representative when it goes wrong. When it stops, you just do not know the time. You're dead."
—Ernest Hemingway
Across the River and into the Trees (1950)
In this next photo we see Ernest Hemingway in Cuba where he had a house, photographed with Fidel Castro and both of them are wearing Rolex watches.
Historically Rolex has always been extremely secretive and discreet, and no journalists in the past have ever been invited "INSIDE ROLEX" to explore and report on all four Rolex Manufacturing faclities in Switzerland.
In November 2013, this changed when Rolex invited Jake to take an unprecdented journey into the heart of Rolex to learn and report on everything he witnessed and learned.
This Super-Detailed 3 Part Story is a "MUST READ" story for anybody who wants to understand what really makes Rolex tick.
