WATCHES AND WONDERS
...A CELEBRATION OF 100 YEARS OF THE OYSTER...
100th Anniversary
Rolex Oyster
Rolex's teaser video showed the detail pictured below a few days before Watches and Wonders 2026 got underway, which features the "100 YEARS" dial designation in the position where Rolex usually places the "SWISS MADE" dial designation.
Let's closely examine the details of this very interesting Rolex novelty and then we will dive into the history of the Rolex OYSTER in order to properly contextualize this beauty. Rolex, in their own words perfectly introduce the features that set this beauty apart:
The first thing we notice is this watch has so much Rolex Oyster DNA, while incorporating a number of different new features that serve to really differentiate this model that celebrates 100 YEARS of the Rolex Oyster.
To the best of my knowledge, Rolex has NEVER made a modern two-tone Oyster Perpetual, or any model for that matter, that ONLY has a yellow gold bezel without making the center links of the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet in matching yellow gold. This subtle change in appearance really sets this watch apart.
I would say this Rolex has a unique vibe, all its own, in that it really is retro-futuristic, in a totally classic and timeless way only Rolex could produce. In other words, it looks like it's from the past, and future simultaneously, which is what makes it so timeless.
Also, the 60 Second track that runs around the 5-Second baton markers, features square markers in Rolex green, which also match the "ROLEX" dial designation which is unusual. By screen printing the "ROLEX" dial designation in green, is kind of camouflages it, so then words "OYSTER PERPETUAL" REALLY stand out and pop.
In other words, traditionally Rolex prints both lines in white so they both pop, but on his model, Rolex really put the primary focus on "OYSTER PERPETUAL", far more than on "ROLEX", which makes perfect sense as this watch clearly celebrates the 100th Anniversary of the Rolex Oyster.
HISTORY REPEATS ITSELF
“The vision recurs; the eastern sun has a second rise; history repeats her tale unconsciously, and goes off into a mystic rhyme; ages are prototypes of other ages, and the winding course of time brings us round to the same spot again.”
—Mystic Rhyme 1845
The ROLEX Magazine ad below was originally published in 1956, which was 70 years ago on the 30th Anniversary of the the Rolex Oyster, and notice the unmistakable doubled-up timeless design language for the 15, 30 and 45 minute baton markers, which I originally published in 2022. This design language feature was incorporated into the most recent Rolex Oyster Perpetual models when they were introduced in 2020. This design language not only stands testament to what makes Rolex watches so timeless, but also illustrates how Rolex has almost perfectly maintained its design language secret formula.
JAKE'S TAKE
I have one detail I would LOVE to see Rolex incorporate which I think would improve Rolex models like the Oyster Perpetual, and that would be to bring back the dauphin pointed sword style hands from the mid 1950s. Dauphin hands from the 1950s represented late art deco, known as Populuxe, which was more of a futuristic, space age, modern, sharp, clean streamlined look.
As we see in the 1956 Rolex Magazine "ROLEX OYSTER" ad pictured above, it featured dauphin hands, which I think are infinitely more "ROLEXY", and I think Rolex should offer them as an option. In other words, I think Rolex should still offer their standard lumed rectangular hands as pictured below on the "100 YEARS" model, but I think they should also offer the retro 1950s dauphin hands, as I mocked up on the left side, which create a lot more visual interest and contrast, while making the watch look more vintage/retro and sharp looking.
THE ROLEX CHRONICLES
By JAKE EHRLICH
Speaking of "JAKE'S TAKE", I have an interesting update to share with you on my book series I have been working of for years now. In my books series, I go into great detail on the history of the Rolex Oyster, which is deeply profound on many levels, as the Rolex Oyster is arguably on of the most most profound watch innovations in history.
I have been working on a series of books now, which are up to 28 volumes, which makes my book series titled "THE ROLEX CHRONICLES by JAKE EHRLICH" a veritable encyclopedia on Rolex History.
After a lot of thought, I decided my first Rolex book series will be on the subject of "ROLEX'S FOUNDING FATHERS", and the first four volumes cover then entire life journey of Rolex's legendary founder, Hans Wilsdorf. In other words, my book series covers his entire lifetime of achievements from cradle to grave, then continues on with books on the other three men who are most responsible for creating the most timeless and renowned brands in history.
For the record, this series reveals a great deal of previously undocumented history, while representing a formidable masterclass in strategic brand architecture and marketing. In other words, I think I have created what will not only be one of the most beautiful sets of coffee table books, but will offer the equivalent of an MBA and marketing degree by exploring what makes Rolex tick. I hope to launch volume 1 of this book series later this year, probably in September, but you can see the cover art pictured above, and the back of the book artwork pictured below.
